thermobollocks

When I was hard up for powder, I played around with the idea of saving my softer-shooting ammo for matches and my 140pf stuff for practice. Practice was still useful, but if you're really trying to burn down fundamentals at warp speed, adding that difficulty factor may not be productive. It's probably more helpful to just get a boatload of your favorite components and not worry about it so much. That said, I did shoot a 3-gun match with 210+ PF .45 ACP because it made me laugh.

How would you go about function checking an M&P striker block? The only checks I do on it are when the slide's separated from the frame. In terms of timing related to the sear, or just sear slippage as what Cammy experienced, I'm drawing a blank. Give the gun a stout whack with a hammer and make sure the striker doesn't fall?

It'd be fun as hell, but my stage time would be awful

Then how could there be any question whether the shooter was DQ'd?

I have no idea what competitors are going to bring. It reminds me very much of the dump buckets that have trouble with 23 round Akdal mags I'm not asking about whether all PCCs should go on top, but whether it's legal or a good idea to say "if your PCC fits in the cubbyhole, put it there, otherwise put it on top." Edit: ...Now I really want to build a 3-gun rifle sized cubbyhole...

Well, the barrel stays pointed the same direction laterally. It's just a question of where your birdshot pattern is compared to where your front sight is vertically, then remembering that. Slugs are the more difficult issue accuracy-wise, so it makes sense to start from there. I'm certain that if you took a shotgun that hits POA at 75y with slugs to the patterning board, the pattern wouldn't be centered precisely where your sight is centered.

Underbarrel Saiga with a drum.

Maybe Practiscore should implement a feature that allows the scorekeeper to annotate when someone's been disqualified, and for what infraction on what stage.

Did the person have the classifier score submitted to USPSA, or was he just "a guest of the range" at that time?

One of the start props we get to use from time to time is the Mini-Mart under-the-table cubbyhole. (Note that I'm not talking about setup of the specific classifier, just the prop that people have probably seen in that classifier) Is it legal from a stage design/WSB perspective to tell PCC competitors to stick their rifles in the cubbyhole, and if they don't fit, allow them to place it on top of the table? Does it create an equity issue?

So get moon clips cut for specific 9mm brass, and stick to that headstamp of brass...just like you have to do with Short Colt. No need to horse around with putting the wrong thing in the wrong chamber. Ninja-edit: http://www.tkcustom.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=42&cat=9mm Like these.

What is this supposed to accomplish?

Wait...are you putting Short Colt into a 929, or trying to adapt Short Colt load data into 9mm or vice versa?

I hear that. I have this $200 rifle ammo gauge, and my ammo doesn't even fit sometimes!

The frame of your gun determines what kind of grips you can put on it. Square is more ass-heavy.

They won't make you shoot using the sling. It's 100% transport. Single-point winds up being less optimal unless you have an SBR -- a stable two-point will do what you need. Anything from the padded Troys and super-adjustable Magpuls to the cheap nylon and paracord ones. As long as the thing doesn't physically break, it'll be viable. The biggest niceties are going to be removing and replacing the sling to the rifle (QD sockets are sweet), and disentangling yourself from the sling quickly.

Our PCC guys have an easier time with some of the wall leans, since they can jam the rifle out at arm's length around the corner Rambo style.

Re-adjusting your weak hand is more than likely related to how many reps you've got in with whatever grips you're using. Whenever I change anything on any gun, I have a mental break-in period. As for what particular grips will work best for you, I don't know whether a bit more wood on the butt will make a difference for you. If you're hard up for weight, slugging the grips is an option with wood. That said, a handful of general criteria might give you some troubleshooting references. A grip must: Allow you to comfortably reach the trigger, while placing the bore in line with your forearm on the yaw axis (at the very least), and not getting in the way of your moon clips, while allowing the rest of your hands to settle into the most stable position. If you strong-hand load, then you may additionally find that wooden grips allow your paws to slip about quicker. I weak-hand load, so I prefer the tacky texturing of Hogue's rubber, but I'm also the kind of person who slathers my autoloaders with 80 grit. As a consequence of #4 above, I generally find that the finger grooves are not useful to me. When you hold your fingers tightly together, do they match the grooves, or do the grooves get in the way? Fortunately, the humble pocket knife can remedy this problem for you. tl;dr: every revolver guy has a bucket of grips they don't use for a reason

I'm cautiously optimistic about the Aero. I managed to scoop up a small pile of uppers and lowers and associated parts last month for obvious reasons, and I finally get to function-fire an entire rifle tomorrow. I'll have to report back.

I must be doing something wrong, since I can't get it to not e-mail me at all.

Most of the work happens behind the stock.

It's often more helpful to have a cleaner reticle that is easier to use up close and quicker to use at speed. The MTAC and Strike Eagle seem to be the biggest contenders in the 400 dollar range.

They're covered in clear plastic. Get several sizes of pmag. 20, 30, 40. Maybe even the 30+18 Nordic instead of the 40.

Are you looking at the Giraud Tri-Way or the full boltgun dork setup? (No offense to the boltgun dorks)

Who has the PT thumbshield safety for sale? I checked their website and they seem to prefer to sell you frames...