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kamac

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    Jacksonville, FL
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    Kevin McDowell

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  1. Another option: https://coppergungrips.com/ He is working on grips for mag well equipped guns, should be available soon.
  2. I did some searching and found that some folks have slots cut behind the mag release. I just found a crack in my frame in the same spot, left side only. Also found one at the bottom of the grip area where the front and back of the lower frame are connected. Based on the previous threads, the cracks behind the mag release are not worrysome, but I think the lower one may be. Also noticed that my grip panel on that side wiggles a little, even with the screw cranked down. The gun is a Match 9mm, approx 12k rounds. The mag release crack is hard to make out in the picture, but you can see there is not a matching one on the other side. Should I worry about either crack? Can they be repaired? Thanks,
  3. Same results as Nealio. K9 mag with factory spring and follower + H141 pad = 22 rounds reloadable. The Grams kit got me 24 reloadable, but would hang at the bottom. I run this setup at weekly matches, works like a champ. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the pad to use the factory spring pad for easier disassembly.
  4. That did it, along with a little extra polishing. I put the roller plunger back in, and everything feels right again. I did not have another proper spring, but a #1 from Ace Hardware cut to length fits. It's a bit heavier, but the reset is nice and crisp. Thanks to Cha-lee and Nealio for the help.
  5. I have had the trigger in and out more than when I first put it in. I actually replaced the Huening roller plunger with the factory one, thinking that may be the cause. No broken parts/springs found, the trigger pivots freely when the bar is removed. The bar does not move completely parallel to the frame, but it has been like that since I bought the gun. The sides of the bars are polished, and the inside of the frame where the bar rubs is also polished. I will try some different springs, just find it odd to start binding up in this way.
  6. I wanted tag onto this thread, since i am having a similar issue/symptoms. The gun is a Match in 9mm, and I have the flat trigger / EGW hammer & sear setup. It has been running flawlessly for the last year(approximately 12-15k rounds), once I got everything set up properly. At a mtach last Saturday, halfway thru a stage the trigger stopped resetting, I had to force it forward on each shot. I stripped the gun down and gave it a quick field cleaning, and it seemed to be okay and I was able to finish the match. I have been playing around with it all week, checking everything I can think of, and cannnot get it reset smoothly like it used to. With just the gun stripped down, and sear cage out, the trigger does not move forward smothly or consistently. I have tried to isolate where it is dragging/binding, but can't seem to find it. With the sear cage back in, it feels like the trigger bow is getting hung up on the bottom of the sear. I have re-polished every contact area and checked for burrs etc, but it still hangs up. With the slide on, it will reset somewhat normally about 60% of the time, the rest I have to bump it. I double-checked my pre/over travel screws (they were still loctited nicely), and nothing had changed. I went thru and re-did both, just to be sure. I am going to test fire it today, but am at a loss as to what else to check. Kevin
  7. Had the same issue. I have ordered mags two times previously, and called prior to placing the order to make sure I got the new ones. Both times I was told "the new ones are all we have, that's what you will get", and I got the new ones. Third time is not the charm, didn't call ahead, and got shipped old mags. Sent them back, waiting on my refund.... They said that they are expecting a shipment from Italy in a couple of weeks, might try again later. Lesson learned, always call EAA before finalizing the purchase.
  8. Thanks for the advice Cha-Lee, that did the trick. I lowered the half cock notch, and undercut the bottom of the hammer as noted in another thread. I will go to the range tomorrow and see how she runs.
  9. Update - Henning's XL firing pin in, still no bang. I emailed Henning and he said to ensure the over-travel isn't too tight (I have it backed out as far as it will go), that it may cause the hammer to drag on the sear and slow down enough to cause problems. As far as me and Mr. Sharpie can tell, it looks like the the hammer half cock is hitting the sear when pull I the trigger. Also, the trigger will not drop the hammer from halfcock. I can feel the trigger bow rubbing the sear, and see it move slightly. I don't know if it is supposed to, but am pretty sure it used to. ...so, does anyone have any hints for me?
  10. That may be my only option, at least for a major match. I was able to square up the factory sear and clear up my hammer follow problem for a couple of matches. I hate to go back to stock after investing the time and $ on the EGW parts. I guess I will have to view it as more gunsmithing experience on Tanfos.
  11. I recently installed the EGW hammer and sear in my Match (second sear, boogered up the first one), and cannot get it to fire. The trigger works smoothly, resets properly, and drops the hammer. However, with live ammo all I get is a faint mark on the primer. I was using the 15# spring, but have since reinstalled the factory hammer spring. I have not had a chance to test fire it since changing the hammer spring. The firing pin is factory (gun is used for IDPA so I have to keep the FPS). Anyone have some insight for me, or will the heavier hammer spring fix things? Kevin
  12. Do these new mags have the anti-friction coating (AFC) and witness holes (round count)?
  13. I have 2 of the Match Elites in 9mm that I run for IDPA and USPSA. I have a mix of the front spacer and rear spacer mags, and have not had a problem with any factory ammo so far. I have about 2000 rounds thru each gun, mixed between Federal, Blazer (aluminum and brass), WWB, Remington UMC, Wolf, Brown Bear, and probably a few others that I have forgotten. All my mags run reliably with up to 15-17 rounds. Best bang for the buck gun on the market.
  14. I emailed Robert Ray @ IDPA headquarters about the same thing last year before the FL State match. He gave a thumbs up to grinding off the rail or shortening the dust cover to lose weight, since this is not considered "slide lightening" and provides no competative advantage. I would send him an email to confirm this and have a copy with you prior to a sanctioned match to avoid a DQ for weight. Or do what I did, and just buy a second Match without the rail and fill it with Henning goodness..... Kevin
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