FightFireJay

Because we like shiny things!

Sooo, your solution is for him to spend between $1,060 and $2,450? Ballsy!

- 1 teaspoon seems like a lot of lemishine unless you have EXTREMELY hard water. - I use a Thumlers Tumbler B with SS media and I can get chocolate brass back to shiny. But it takes a long while. - The only time I ever got pink brass was when I had a couple brass coated steel cases get in the mix and weird things happened. - Putting the brass into a media separator and adding water to the bottom bucket works flawlessly for me... but I still use a magnet to make sure, lol.

From almost the very beginning, I have wet stainless media tumbled my brass. I too used to get brass dust or shavings. I actually ended up polishing the expander portion of the powder-through-expander die and it's not really an issue anymore. I have never done only dry tumbling, although I do on occasion dry tumble to remove size lube or brass shavings from trimming, etc.

If you're going to hand load your carry ammo, consider 2 things... 1. With the exception of Speer Gold Dots (and possibly the Sig V-Crown), none of the newer generation extremely consistent performing JHPs are available for reloaders. So that's where I'd start, Gold Dots are used by many LEO agencies and have a proven track record. 2. Potentially of greater importance are muzzle flash (to preserve visual acuity in low light conditions, which are 80% of defensive shootings) and being able to to have quick follow up shots. Not that you asked for it, but arguments against reloads for defensive use... 1. Overly aggressive ADAs and ignorant juries. 2. Factory loads are easier for crime labs to verify ballistics and powder burn patterns (especially if you keep the box with lot numbers) to verify your version of events. 3. A $20-$40 investment for a box or two of quality JHPs is cheap compared to the cost of legal defense and your life. Professional made parachute vs homemade parachute?

Which Ghost trigger do you have? What Gen is your G20? I assume you mean the "not fully supported" chamber thing? I've seen aftermarket barrels that actually measure out further forward (less support) on the brass than Gen 3/4 barrels. IMO, what Glock currently has is a LOOSE chamber. If they still had an unsupported issue, then the "bulge" would be much further back on the brass. I understand this was a legitimate issue on Gen 1 Glock 22/23s.

For any "upgrade" to a firearm, defensive or competition, I use a 2 question system... 1. Does it actually make me shoot the gun better? 2. Does it affect reliability compared to an OEM part? I'd say the answers to those are... 1. Yes, but only by the slightest margin, if it's even measurable. 2. Maybe, but probably not. The safest (and cheapest) solution, is to purchase a new OEM recoil assembly ($7.00?) and shoot a few boxes with it for the warm and fuzzy, then leave it in and worry about something more important. And there are MUCH more important concerns, like "does I this hybrid tuckable IWB holster make my but look big?", just a thought.

Just make sure that with lighter than stock recoil springs that your pistol easily goes into battery, and doesn't come out when you pull the trigger (places rearward pressure on the striker/slide). I use ISMI springs on my stainless non captured guide rod from www.SpeedShooterSpecialties.com.

Great info on the Evo, thanks.

Gen 3 or 4?

Well, I went back and rechecked... my trigger is still acting as the overtravel stop. The striker block activation tab, um... thingy, is not touching the sear block. It's super close, but not touching.

The problem with pressure signs in pistol cartridges, is that they tend to vary a lot. And in many cases you will be WAY over pressure by the time you see signs. This is only made worse when using SRP or SMPP. Some manufacturers actually use the same product for small magnum pistol primers and small rifle primers. Consider that a primer that is made to handle 55k psi (with no pressure signs, SRP/SMPP) gets used in a 9mm major load won't show pressure signs until well after you reach proof load pressures. Proof load for 9mm is 45.5k psi. If you see pressure signs on SRP/SMPP primers, you are probably +30% over PROOF load psi. Also, 9x23 Win uses a standard SPP and it's rated at 46k psi. Just something to consider.

There have been so many revisions in trigger parts alone, it's nearly impossible to keep track... At least 3 different slide stops. At least 4 different sears for the different M&P 9/40 (not counting the 45/Shield sears, which one does the 45 Shield have?) At least 3 different trigger bars. And 5 different strikers. Truly dizzying. They are much different animals than when first released. What I don't understand is why the PC models don't ship with the "bump" slide stop lever.

Dawson, are you listening? Hook us up!

Is your trigger over travel adjustment still functional with the Apex trigger (FSS?)?

Wow, so there is actually several different model widths. I'd be interested in seeing the actual weights of the slides (no barrel, spring, or guide) as well. I don't know that we could control for weight of differing sights. Here's my measurements for an M&P 40 Pro 5" (circa 2012) "A" = .962" "B" = .809" "C" (widest portion on slide) = 1.084" Weight (slide with OEM sights, no barrel, no recoil spring assembly, otherwise fully assembled) 420 grams 14.8 oz My holster is a Blade-Tech DOH ICE, from 2012, no markings on the holster. Purchased from Red Dot Shooting (formerly and online retail store) shows and invoice for "S&W M&P 9L/Pro". It fits snug, no issues.

The Evo Elite has vastly different geometry of the connector. I think it may engage the trigger bar higher up than any other trigger connector. Because of this, it MAY negate (fully or partially) the geometry difference of the Gen3 or Gen4 connector. By all reports, it's still a great connector, so don't feel bad. But if you don't get the results you desire, spend $14 plus shipping and get a Gen 1-3 trigger bar and call it a day.

I'm wondering if the different bullet profile and deeper seating is making the heavy bullet run into the web of these cases. Certainly there is some variation on the web location of different brass manufacturers and if you're hitting on the PPU, then that could easily cause issues. When loading lead (and plated) in semi-autos, I basically only use the crimp to remove the excess case flare and get the case mouth back to straight. I get plenty of neck tension from the brass without a crimp. If you aren't putting a hard crimp on the lead, then you don't have to line up the case mouth with the crimp groove, so you can load to the COAL that works for your gun.

Titegroup certainly has less muzzle flash than Remington UMC ammo in 9mm (witnessed it first hand) but it isn't going to make 1200 fps at published load data. Hodgdon doesn't publish +P load data for 9mm. I think it would most likely be safely within +P pressure limits, but the OP would still be outside published data.

Exactly. Most isn't the same as all.

Anyone care to explain where the difference in measurements is located?

Honeybooboo, There are really only 2 difference between a Gen3 and Gen4 regarding trigger feel. The trigger bar and the trigger connector. Obviously you have figured out the standard 5.5, 4.5 (dot), and 3.5 (minus) connectors. The only other difference is that the Gen4s have a different trigger bar geometry at the curvature where they contact the connector. The good news is, you can install a Gen 3 trigger bar in a Gen4. http://www.ghostinc.com/product/GLO_00357/GLOCK--00357-Smooth-Trigger-WBar-9mm40357-GENs-1-4.html http://www.ghostinc.com/product/GLO_04417/GLOCK-SMOOTH-TRIGGER-WBAR-04417-10MM45-ACP.html

That's some good work, Memphis. I've recently been thinking about such things, after seeing all of the over travel options for Glocks. But I did something different (no welder access)... I compressed the trigger bar loop, top to bottom. This makes the sear actuate further to the rear so that the striker block tab (part that you welded) still acts as the over travel stop, but instead of adjusting the stop, I have adjusted the "timing". To be fair, this was actually a happy accident. After installing some Apex parts including sear and USB I was getting some damage to the striker from hitting the striker block. It wasn't being pushed out of the way far enough to fully clear the striker, but it wasn't enough to stop it or even cause light primer strikes. It was, however, peening over the edge of the striker safety tab. So I filed it flat again, adjusted timing, re-polished everything, and as a happy accident, I also have less overtravel and a shorter reset.

Reviewing my personal results with Titegroup in .380 Auto and 9mm, I think you'll need to be somewhere around 3.3-3.9 grains of Titegroup for your 100 PF (depending on your coal, I used 1.020" for 9mm with 95gr FMJ). This is well under publish starting loads for 9mm, but more than 380 Auto load data, so no worries about "detonation". As an alternative. You might consider a heavy bullet moving even slower. I have had great success with "bunny fart" loads in .40 S&W using Trailboss under a 180gr moly lead bullet at just 600-630 fps (2.6-2.8 gr Trailboss @ about 1.140"). This cycled a Glock 23, M&P Pro 5", and an M&P Shield. That's about 108 power factor. I'm not suggesting you use Trailboss, but something like Titegroup, 231, or 700X should do great with low felt recoil from reduced power 130gr or 147 gr load. I'm interested to know what you end up with. Please report back!

That's good enough for me. This will be a hunting and recreational handgun, and probably won't get more than a few thousand over a decade.