Yondering

I use the same one, at .985" OAL. That's the length that gives best accuracy in my Glocks. Guys, OAL numbers don't mean anything at all if you're not comparing the same bullet. What seems like a really short OAL for one design might be way too long for another, especially with flat nose designs.

"seems incredibly high" based on what? Stick to the load data, not what "seems" right. Also, Hodgdon's data is for 223 loads, not the hotter 5.56 that your rifle is chambered in, so pressures shown in the Hodgdon manual will be even lower in your rifle. Your load is way under minimum; load to what the manuals tell you and pay close attention to the bullet weight.

Seems like this is the obvious and easy solution for the OP. Don't get too hung up on "shiny and clean", especially inside the case; it doesn't make your ammo better, and can cause more problems. I like my ammo to look good too, but that has nothing to do with inside the case, and a layer of carbon in there is beneficial to sizing and neck tension/pull consistency.

AA9 is a good fit for the 10mm with full power loads, but is too slow burning for the 9mm. AA7 is a better 9mm choice, and even then only for max loads. Choosing the right burn rate is important.

I use a 100gr RF coated bullet (the Lee 95RF mold with lube grooves removed) over 3.2gr of Clays in a G19.

Seriously guys. A bottle of Dillon case polish is what, $9? It lasts for several years even if you tumble a LOT of brass, and it works really well. I don't see a lot of reason to cheap out on this stuff. That cheapskate mindset bleeds over into other stuff and does not improve your quality of life.

This. I started reloading in a friend's attic, and it was miserable in summer and winter. (This was before either of us knew about powder deterioration in high storage temps.) My friend still has the equipment but doesn't reload at all any more because it was so miserable, and of course I moved my own gear to a more comfortable environment many years ago. Reloading should be enjoyable so you can relax and focus on the important details of loading, rather than just trying to endure the environment and get it done as a chore. I recommend moving your equipment inside, or wait till nicer weather. Your equipment and powder will last a lot longer stored indoors anyway, and you'll enjoy the loading process a lot more even if you have a little less room.

Nah, 9mm. I noticed in the video I was riding the reset, need to work on that. Normally I don't, but spend a lot more time with Glocks than the Tanfo, and wasn't really thinking much about form for the video.

I use AA1680, H110/296, and Lil'Gun. All three powders work well for both supersonic and subsonic loads. Lil'Gun gives less flash and blast than the other two, but in some loads H110 is more consistent. 1680 provides more gas to help marginal subsonic loads cycle better, with the trade off of more noise when suppressed. Lil'Gun is usually the quietest of the three for suppressed subsonic loads in my rifles (a 9" and a 16", pistol gas in both), although H110 does better in certain loads. Using those powders as appropriate, both of my 300 Blk ARs will cycle suppressed subsonics as low as 180gr jacketed or 200gr cast/coated, as well as 125-130gr supersonics with no changes or adjustments. If you want really quiet suppressed subsonic loads that do not cycle the action, use a faster pistol powder; almost anything in the burn rate range of Unique & Universal or faster can work well.

For what you're looking for - just buy blasting ammo. I do load my own 223 and a lot of other stuff, and have for many years, but it's all precision ammo for accurate rifles. I wouldn't waste my time loading blasting ammo for 223 when it can be bought for about the same price or sometimes less. That goes double if you will also have to buy all the equipment to do so. Not worth it unless you're looking for precision. As for getting an AR to run bulk ammo well - that's very easy, and most guns should do it out of the box. If they don't, you've either got really bad ammo, or something wrong with the gun. Contrary to what the "Vietnam era" guys say about ARs, modern AR15s are generally very reliable and capable of excellent accuracy as well. Being able to run cheap bulk ammo is a very reasonable expectation for a decent AR. (By "decent" I mean quality ranging from PSA or better, the exception being that some very tight match barrel chambers don't work well with low quality ammo.)

I know this was last posted back in August, but if your question still stands - the difference in speed is a result of case capacity and bullet weight. If we compare an existing bullet style (with lube groove) to the same bullet with the groove removed, it'll be heavier. To correct the weight, usually the base is shortened; that results in more case capacity, lower pressure, and lower velocity for a given powder charge. Seating the bullet that same amount deeper will bring velocity back to where it was. The difference in bearing surface doesn't have much affect on velocity. Differences in accuracy happen because the bullet balance is changed. Sometimes it's better, but with certain designs that are balanced really well with a lube groove, accuracy can get worse when the groove is removed. If the whole bullet is re-designed for correct balance without a groove, accuracy can be just as good or better. Like you said though, we're talking about small accuracy differences, in a sport where it doesn't really matter much. I cast and coat my own, and have removed the lube grooves from a number of my bullet molds, so I have had the opportunity to do some direct back-to-back comparisons with them.

I've been using the same kinetic puller since 2002 and finally broke it this weekend. Never had an issue with it up till now, hopefully the next one is at least half as good. Even if a round were to go off in the puller, I don't have the case pointed at my face or body anyway, so I'm not too concerned about it.

FWIW, even if tumbling removes the coating, it won't affect shooting. The coating that matters is hidden inside the case (except for very long loaded rounds), the stuff on the bullet nose/ogive doesn't affect how it shoots. Of course some range rules dictate no exposed lead but that's a different story.

Midsouth is advertising free hazmat today if you buy a Hodgdon manual for $6.99. No link, sorry.

Just for fun, here's some video I shot at 1,000 frames per second of my Stock II with minor loads. (You'll notice a hitch in the middle of the video, it's video of two shots spliced together.) No particular point to this, just thought the slow motion stuff is neat. https://i.imgur.com/I2RtmkG.mp4 Edit - not sure why I can't get it to display here directly. If anyone knows how, I'm open to suggestions.

No reason not to. Lanolin based lubes work well, and as long as you're not using too much, they don't need to be removed either.

I mostly don't bother removing lube after loading pistol ammo. I don't put a lot on there in the first place, and it doesn't hurt anything to leave it. When I do remove lube from loaded ammo, I just tumble it in corn cob. If I'm removing lube from empty sized brass, sometimes I'll just rinse it in laquer thinner or acetone; that dries fast and is quicker than tumbling. If I'm really in a hurry sometimes I'll drain the laquer thinner and then light what remains on the brass; the residue burns up in a minute or so and doesn't heat up the cases enough to be a problem. That might sound crazy, but I'm working in a concrete-floored shop and the brass is in a metal pan so it's pretty harmless.

What is that? I honestly don't want to google search for it, kinda afraid of the results I'd get in my search history.

Umm, yeah. No surprises. I work with a lot of different electronic measuring equipment besides just scales; if you get different measurements like that, something is wrong and it is definitely not typical.

Most of us talking about lubing cases here are using carbide dies as well. It just makes the process a lot easier. As you pointed out, there are a lot of reasons to avoid excessive cleaning with SS pins, and I don't do that.

No surprise about the FA, Lyman, or Hornady; all are just repackaged cheap chinese stuff. As to the others - sounds like either user error or a static problem. I've used a lot of different digital scales, both professionally and for reloading; that's not a typical feature of good scales.

I tried this based on someone's recommendation here, using that exact product as well as a couple others. It's not even close to being the same as lubing brass before sizing. In fact there's barely any difference at all from just clean dry brass. Actual lube on the cases, applied in a bag as many others do, is on a whole different level than any of this car wash/wax stuff.

Sure, if you buy a cheap scale. That certainly does not apply to "every digital scale". Buy quality or expect junk results. My Dillon does not do that, it is repeatable to the same number every time.

That has nothing to do with it, but you sure must have a low opinion of everybody else. A digital scale is simply faster and easier to use, and can be zeroed for an empty case. Those advantages may or may not apply to you, but they DO apply to a lot of other people. Personally, I've been using the older model Dillon D-Terminator digital scale since the early 2000's and have always really liked it; it's been reliable and accurate. I do still have a number of beam scales, but rarely use them as I just don't have any reason to.

You need MOS-height suppressor sights; what you have is standard suppressor sights. Those are good for a milled slide RMR mount but a little short for the MOS system. Dawson has some for the MOS height.