Yondering

Really Nolan? First line of the first post...

Reinventing? No, I'm asking about a direct interpretation of the rule as it is written. That is the opposite of reinventing it. I'm also asking if there is another rule that covers this. What the rule quoted above says and what race1911 said are not the same.

It looks like you've made a buffer that softens the stop at the rear of bolt carrier travel. Great. But - if you're claiming it eliminates the need to restrict gas on an overgassed rifle, how does this do anything to delay unlocking? Early unlocking is one of the main problems with an overgassed AR. Seems like your product only addresses felt recoil, which is just one of the issues with an overgassed rifle.

Maybe there is another rule on that somewhere? Per the rule you cited, there is certainly a good argument for allowing factory built pistols with magwells included, since they are neither modifications or add-ons. That is per the wording of the rule, but maybe there's an unwritten interpretation of it that fits what you said?

I've got no dog in this fight, but am curious - is a factory-installed magwell on a production model considered a modification? It doesn't seem that it would fit the definition of a modification or an "add-on" magwell.

Mil-spec trigger groups vary quite a bit in feel, especially with lighter springs. I don't like any of them myself, but it's no surprise that the springs alone didn't improve yours enough. Even without getting into the really good high end triggers, you can make a world of difference in the trigger for $100 or less by replacing it with one of several good options. I would not waste my money on any of the polished/slicked/coated mil-spec "improved" triggers though, just go straight for a good trigger for not much more money. Larue and RRA have decent 2 stage triggers, and Rise Armament has decent single stage, all for $80-$100, and those are just the cheap options. Any of them will be a huge improvement over what you have now.

This. Kroil or some other penetrating oil, even WD-40, is your best bet, followed by some scrubbing after a soak. Brake cleaner won't do much of anything for carbon usually; it doesn't dissolve carbon and just removes whatever oils may have soaked into it. Loosening the carbon with penetrating oil is what you want.

yes, Flitz or other metal polishes will do that, so will lead remover patches. Fast evaporating solvents like brake cleaner and laquer thinner are not very good for removing carbon. WD-40 and other oily solvents like kerosene, diesel, etc do a much better job, but you'll need to put some elbow grease into it as well. You could try some fine steel wool, or copper or brass scrubbing pad (i.e. Chore Boy pads). Chrome is pretty hard and durable, you don't need to worry about damaging it with most chemicals, just avoid abrasives like polishing paste, scotchbrite pads, or sand paper since all of those will change the finish.

Why does the takeup matter to you? I can't see any reason to care about it since the reset is very short, and the takeup is so light that it has no practical effect on what is otherwise a pretty crisp single action trigger in mine. (To be fair, I dropped a 6.5 lb Glock striker spring in mine, but no other trigger mods.)

No Dillon fanboy here, just making sure the OP gets accurate info. He doesn't have to go to a single stage to load accurate ammo. Just use good dies (I suggest Forster rather than Dillon) and good load development.

I wouldn't worry too much about the crimp. Just set OAL to whatever works for your barrel, and apply a mild crimp, if any. Personally I normally don't crimp much at all, just enough to straighten out the case mouth flare.

That's not a crimp ring, these are two-diameter bullets. It allows them to be loaded long (same effect as a long throated barrel) for more powder capacity. I don't see anything in the picture indicating if these are pulled or not; I think the other guys missed your details about the two diameters and think that's a crimp ring. I've loaded some of these (well, the 124gr version as well as other calibers) a long time ago, but don't remember where I got them. They are a pretty good defense bullet and shoot reasonably well too. Depends if it's worth the hassle to you, but they might be worth selling, and then using that money to buy a larger quantity of target bullets. In other words, you might be able to turn that 900 into 1500 target bullets for example. But then again it may not be worth your time to do so. Nothing wrong with just loading and shooting these, they are a good bullet.

Are you saying he should buy a Rockchucker single stage press instead of paying for 223 dies? What good would that do? If you're not counting the cost of the dies, which would be needed either way and certainly don't need to be Dillon, then a Rockchucker is not cheaper than converting, and doesn't necessarily translate to better ammo. You mentioned brass processing too, and if he wants to speed up that process it can be done faster on a 650 anyway with another tool head, if he is willing to spend the money.

I think you're over-emphasizing the marketing side of things, which pretty much every other company does as well. It's true though that Glock doesn't release very many large changes. The alternative is they could be like Sig, constantly rushing new products to market with poor or incomplete development, relying on their customers as beta testers and using warranty claims for their R&D, and a history of dropping a lot of those products later to chase the next new thing. If that's what you want as a consumer, Glock is probably not for you. With a career in testing and development myself, I'll say that is one thing Glock does better than most other gun companies, and is why they have such a good reputation for reliability. For development timelines that span years, not days or weeks, that means not chasing squirrels every time a new idea comes along.

Anybody else see the announcement for the new G44 today? Apparently it's a G19-sized 22 LR. They said the slide is steel and polymer (no surprise there). The release mentioned shipping with 10 round mags, no idea if there will be higher capacity available. My thoughts - I had a Ciener conversion on a G23 that was a nice size and fun to shoot if the right ammo was used (and after some tweaking); a factory Glock equivalent that is more reliable could be a winner. If the aftermarket picks up the slack with higher capacity mags, this could be a fun little plinker.

I don't intend to. It doesn't work on suppressor baffles, no reason it'd work on a brake.

In the suppressor world, people have experimented with ultrasonic cleaners for years trying to remove lead & carbon from suppressor baffles. Generally it doesn't work very well and mechanical removal is still necessary. I have one, and it doesn't do much to suppressor baffles. I haven't bothered to try it on a brake.

Thanks, that's good info. Looks like your feeds and speeds aren't too much different than some stainless alloys. What is that tungsten alloy called, and where did you buy it? I can see how that'd be useful material for a few different things.

I know what you're talking about, but it's not coating residue, it's just a mix of lead and powder fouling. The coating itself doesn't even melt, it just burns to ash if heated enough. Those of us who use suppressors are very familiar with this lead & carbon buildup too, and it's even more of a problem if you use uncoated lead bullets. The thing is - if your coated bullets are allowing lead to be deposited on the brake, the coating isn't doing it's job and is being burned through by gas cutting. Usually that's at least partly because the bullets are too small, sometimes it's a fault of poor coating as well. I have been talking about this here for a while; if you have lead smoke, your bullets probably aren't fitting the barrel throat very well because they're too small. Unfortunately that's what most of the coated bullet manufacturers sell, because it's easier to get loaded rounds to fit in a case gauge. To the OP - the big difference between coated and plated is the lead alloy, and that's a result of how they're made. Plated bullets are swaged before plating; that requires very soft lead. Coated bullets are cast (usually), and commercial cast bullet alloys are generally pretty hard. The harder alloy of these cast coated bullets grips the rifling better and holds up to higher pressure and velocity. The soft alloy of coated bullets can be a better match to low pressure loads, but at higher pressure/velocity can be prone to slumping and plating damage. It's worth noting that too much crimp is bad for both coated and plated bullets.

That's good to know about replacing the trigger group with a gen 4, I didn't know that was possible but don't own a gen 5 yet except the 43. If you like a DA trigger feel - try the new Ghost "Angel" connector, that's exactly what it's designed to do. I bought one out of curiosity; I don't like a DA trigger in my Glocks but can see that if someone did, the Angel connector does a good job of it.

Interesting stuff. How well does that tungsten machine? Looks like you got a nice finish on it so it must not be too bad. I machine a lot of stainless and titanium but haven't worked with tungsten yet.

Stove piping is probably your ejector, or maybe the extractor. Pull the bolt and push the ejector in and out with a punch to make sure it moves freely and has plenty of spring pressure. Check for burrs and anything sticky or hanging up. If that checks out, check the extractor too. If it seems ok, verify the extractor spring is adequate, and you may need the little O-ring around the spring to increase extractor tension if you don't already have one. The third possibility is that the gun may be severely overgassed. That can cause weird extraction & ejection problems that can look like undergassed symptoms. If your extracted cases have torn rims (or even partially torn) from the extractor, that may be an issue. A rough chamber can cause that too though and will be evident as small rings in the body of fired brass.

You won't even need a lighter recoil spring. They are already sprung too light for real 10mm, they're intended for the very common weak factory 10mm ammo that basically duplicates 40 S&W. DO NOT fire 40 S&W from your 10mm Tanfo barrel. It's fine in Glocks, not at all in Tanfos. It's not just a little less viable, it's flat out dangerous, and pierced primers are just the first indication of a problem. We've been over this recently on this forum already. This is what a 10mm Tanfo does with 40 S&W when it jumps in front of the extractor. A case head blowout or separation is possible.

The carbide ring in most 9mm dies is much longer than it is in straight wall cases like 40 and 45. The ring is long enough to have the taper section built in, and also a straight section where the bullet is seated. That longer contact area and taper is partly why a lot of guys like to lightly lube their 9mm brass before sizing, even with carbide dies. I've gone that direction myself after many years of loading 9mm dry, and it's a good improvement in the loading process, just makes it easier.

You should be concerned about inhaling lead smoke as well. That can happen without any leading, and a lot of guys seem to think it's normal but it's neither normal or necessary. .355" would be the last size I'd choose for powder coated 9mm bullets, I'd only use it if other larger options didn't fit the barrel properly.