dmc_md

The light strike on the primer is normal. This is from the inertia of the firing pin as the bolt closes. This is what causes slam fires on certain types of primers. It is not from the hammer falling. The fact that your hammer is falling could be due to a problem with the disconnector. Empty your weapon, pull the trigger, and with the trigger pulled, recock. The hammer should stay back. If it doesn't, it's a disconnector problem. If it turns out to be the disconnector, do not fire the weapon until it is resolved. A worn disconnector will not make an AR fully automatic. It will, however, hurt you and the gun. Darren

I'm glad it seems to be worked out. Good to know a trigger can do that... Darren

If you're planning on putting a big scope on it anyway, you might look at getting one that you can use to compete in silhouette matches with. That game is a blast. For those on a budget, many choose the CZ silhouette. Darren

You will need: A scale Brass trimmer, chamfer, deburr tool Dies Media separator Lube Darren

My steps are: Tumble to clean and polish Lube Size Tumble to get lube off Trim Load Shoot I do this in batches of 2k so I only have to do it every 2-3 months Darren

I've never met the person who's never shot the wrong target (or who never will). Darren

I was at a highpower match the other day and one of the shooters (a past state champion) had a blown primer get stuck in in the cam hole of his bolt carrier on his AR. This would not allow the bolt to open. We had to take his gun apart and literally hammer his bolt back. The gun worked when we were done. AR's are pretty tough. Darren

I've never gotten a backwards primer on my 550. But I check all of my rounds nevertheless. Darren

I don't think it will be possible to build backstops such that you'll be guaranteed to catch a ND. The best advice is what's been given above. Don't bring any live rounds with you when you plan on dry-firing.

I double plug as well because I like using the slim muffs that don't have very good NRR. I use custom plugs I bought from a hearing aid doctor. Darren

I tumble after sizing to get the lube off. Then I perform all of the other steps on unlubed cases. If you don't get the lube off after sizing, you're going to end up with loaded rounds with lube all over them, and it will be a huge pain to get the lube off since you can't put them in a tumbler. Darren

All of my experiences have been positive as well. I can't imagine I'll ever buy a press from a different company. Darren

Your video proves it's not a gas issue. Either you're not getting a complete back stroke or your bolt is slipping off of the round. I doubt it's your magazines. Make sure there's nothing blocking the magazines from going all the way up. Have you changed anything that would change the length of the back stroke? Changed buffer spring or buffer? Changed rear stock/buffer tube? Perhaps something got behind the buffer and is stopping it from going all the way back. To check whether or not it's your bolt, the easiest way will probably be to find a friend with an AR and try his bolt and bolt carrier in your gun. If they work, then there's your answer. Also, you might take your bolt completely apart and make sure it's clean and put back together properly. Good luck, Darren

I know you said it happens when you use the charging handle, but are you 100% certain you were pulling the handle back all the way when It happened? This looks like a short stroke issue. Darren

I'm glad you were able to adapt and overcome. I enjoy working on guns, even frustrating things like this. Happy shooting!

You can swap out bolts and/or carriers without worrying about headspace problems. AR's are not bolt guns. The barrel extension sets up your headspace. You're not going to get enough wear on the face of a bolt to make a difference. Darren

Assuming your rifle will stabilize them, the 77s will do better at 600 yds than the 69s because they will be blown by the wind slightly less. Darren

I agree with everyone else. This sounds like a gas issue. Have you changed ammo? Also, make sure you're lubed up real well. I had the same problem at the range one day. I discovered my gun was dry. A little motor oil from the shop fixed the problem immediately. Darren

That seems like a lot of money for an AR. You might be able to build one of the same or higher quality exactly how you want it for a little cheaper. Maybe $200 or so. I don't know if you've ever done it, but building an AR is a snap. Don't let it intimidate you. There's videos all over youtube that show you exactly how to do it. Darren

I had the same problem. It was very frustrating. I spent a lot of time taking things apart and cleaning them thoroughly only to have it keep happening. Finally I figured out I had to bend the activation rod a little bit more and I haven't had a single problem since. Make sure you are getting a complete stroke. Darren

The Texas State Service Rifle Team uses Varget. There's nothing wrong with it. I use Reloader 15 just because it measures a little better. Darren

It sounds like a classic squib round, but I would expect more damage if that were the case. Doesn't matter either way. Can you see through the barrel such that you know there's nothing still stuck in it? Just curious. I am unaware of any method to remove a case head separation other than a case removal tool. I would keep working with that as best you can. If you can't get it out, you'll be meeting your local gunsmith. I'm glad you're ok. I'm shedding a slight tear for your gun, though. Darren

Definately use two toolheads. Once you set your sizing die, you're not going to want to keep messing with it. You have to get the lube off of the rounds somehow. As the others have said, I tumble after resizing to get it off. Darren

55 grain fmj grouping at 1 MOA is excellent. I wouldn't change anything if that's really what you're getting. Darren

I hate to beat a dead horse, but from your description it sounds like your bullet seater die is the problem. If your full length sizer die is not set up right, the shoulder on the case will prevent it from chambering. That's why you have to push the shoulder back with the sizing die. If you don't trim your cases, the neck of the case will get pushed into the lands. This squishes the case neck around the bullet. This significantly tightens the hold on the bullet which will increase pressure when the round is fired. This is the reason we trim these cases -- to prevent an explosion. If your powder measure is set too low it will mushroom the neck and cause the case not to chamber. If your bullet seating die is not correct, it can also mushroom the case. See above. The real problem is that you're using a 50 grain bullet set to the length you would normally use for a 77 grain. For a 50 grain bullet, you're not going to get enough contact with the case neck when they're loaded out to 2.260. When I loaded 55gr, I was at an OAL of about 2.23 if I remember correctly. You need to check your resized brass in a case gauge to make sure it's right. Do this after you size it, run it thought the powder measure (empty the powder out), and run it through the bullet seater die without a bullet. If it's still right in the case gauge, your dies are set up right. If your dies are right, it's an OAL problem. By the way, I don't crimp 223. I think it's unnecessary. But if you do, you should run the case through the crimp die too. Darren