eric nielsen

It's tough to get a consistent ejection pattern out of an Open 9x19, might be because the case is tapered and back-heavy compared to super/supercomp. Even the 9x21 open gun I had was no problem at all with ejection and clearing the mount, IF i was careful to file the bottom of the vertical C-More mount smooth. Look and run your fingernail over the bottom surface of your mount. When you combine a dinged-up mount with old brass you get the worst mount-related stovepipes; least problem is a mount that's sanded smooth and new brass with smooth case rims. Also look to see if you are thumbing your slide - if you're not sure, a piece of skateboard or 3M P&P tape will show the thumb rubbing right away. Good luck, my 9x19 open gun had a mini-optic on the slide and ejection was anywhere from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock with a few cases hitting me in the head. Like they say a sideways or offset mount should help a lot.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5194 go down to the red letters (benos post)

There's a sweet spot of recoil spring, mainspring, ammo, & FP stop curve that lets a gun shoot as user-friendly as possible for that gun; sounds like you hit the spot for yours already. You might want to get a bunch of spares that match what you have exactly & as soon as the gun doesn't feel as good, start swapping the recoil spring first then the mainspring etc.

There are different profiles of FP-safety plungers available. Sounds like you need one that is a flat/wide as possible. W/empty gun and a flashlight, look up your magwell and watch what is happening to your plunger & trigger bar during a trigger press (BTW this is how CRO's can catch & reject trigger jobs that defeat safety features). Some plunger designs try to put a gradual slope on the surface that engages the trigger bar, usually results in a small-diameter peak to the part - you want to stay away from those, accentuates your problem and those really only improve the feel if you slap all the way thru a trigger press. I'm used to the idea that all kinds of things are going to happen in a Glock trigger press prior to the steep let-off, no longer looking to reduce or smooth out my pre-travel at all, but your issue is a problem rather than just an annoyance, & could result in your striker rubbing the FP-safety plunger, causing misfires.

There's a saying, "Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence." There are probably many threads not being written by guys who have blown up their guns for this & other reasons. Also after years of watching people sight in their gun just prior to a weekday fun match, I can positively say there are lots of guys out there who could not tell the difference between a gun/ammo that groups 1" at 15 yards vs. one that groups 6" at 15 yards.

Without a guide you'll never know if you cleared the bullet path, and probably remove too much metal. But you might get lucky.

PM sent. The salesmanship on this non-dealer thread is starting to annoy me. If someone wants to read both the upside and downside of a product or service, you can invite PMs where free responses are allowed & also do not stir up a public ___-____ (insert creative expression).

It's way more important to have the cleaning done concentric to the bore vs how big or how tight you clean out the lead & carbon build-up. That's why a comp reamer is the best way to go, they're mostly 0.375" which is plenty tight on a 0.3555" bullet. The reamers have guides that go down the barrel but won't scratch the rifling. That also makes your cleaning cylindrical instead of in a cone, all the baffles get the same treatment esp. the first baffle which is typically the dirtiest. Call around, you should be able to use a 375 rifle chamber finishing reamer. Our local smith has a 375 reamer so we stop & visit there. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81872 http://www.clymertool.com/welcome.html http://www.midwayusa.com/find?&newcategorydimensionid=1091

With the Timberwolf you have one magwell option, a small nearly weightless aluminum model. You also lose the backstrap gap that on a Gen3 you can fill with Dawson or ZEV or SJC brass fitting for their heavy magwells, plus birdshot/glue, fishing sinkers, you name it if there's still room at the top of the gap. If you really want an open Glock my 2cents is use a Gen3, you can add up to 9oz to it plus 1.5-2oz with tungsten guide rod. Gun will still be lighter than most all the STI steel-challenge guns, borderline too light (my opinion).

This was while ago but in my Delta Elite (compensated open gun ~1991) I used Colt mags (about $20 each then) plus McCormick follower/spring kits that added one round for a total of 9+1. http://www.cmcmags.com/ConversionKits.html With the right length ammo, zero problems w/Colt mags; also had a couple McCormick mags, they worked well too. http://www.cmcmags.com/othermags.html

Search. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100153 http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30583 Answer to your Q: (probably) No one. Answer to Barnhart Q: 2000 (he came in 4th)[1999 and 2001 Barnhart won the match with optics]

Dave Skinner retired, that might have something to do with it.

First make sure your rounds are really tumbling. If you have nice round holes all over the target, that can be a scope/mount problem. If you can recover a bullet and check the rifling pattern, that might help. Best bet is find the nearest gunsmith with a comp reamer (most of them are 0.375 diameter). Take your gun there and run the reamer. Run a chamber reamer and a freebore/rifling reamer, if available (not related to your problem, but might as well while you're there). A lot of times you'll hit just one rough spot then the reamer spins freely, but it makes all the difference. If you shoot exposed-lead-base bullets, your comp/barrel alignment might look perfectly concentric when held up to a bright light but still be causing bullet strikes on a build-up of lead. If that doesn't fix it then the barrel is probably shot out. There's one famous/infamous brand in particular that's known to give up the ghost without warning; I've heard about national-champion shooters scrambling to replace this brand just prior to a big match & only 10,000 rounds on the barrel. Before you head out, make some ammo that is .010 too long, 0.020 too long, etc. Drop them into the chamber and see if the bullets hit the rifling - if it's a long jump with a short bullet that can be a problem. Bullets with a deep hollow base (like the 115 Remington FMJ) can sort of umbrella-out as they leave the crown, making a comp strike more likely. If it sounds like i've had your problem - yes, several times.

Buy one. I bought one tumbler ever, in 1991, an orange Lyman model. It's polishing 38 Super brass right now. I replaced the power cord once, and I replaced the threaded center column that holds down the lid once.

Todd went to great lengths to design a case to work well in a big stick with (Para) grooves in the side. Should work at least as well the other rimless cases in grooved STI big sticks too. Just chrono your rounds, like you would any time you change brands of brass, might adjust powder charge by a few 10ths of a grain; will likely hit the same point of aim.

Good thread. Ejector detonations have happened to top shooters, even US/World champions. Also with 38 super and 45 ACP. Most often happens with a hand over the ejection port, trying to prevent a 25-cent piece of ammo from maybe getting lost on the ground at unload/show-clear. If you had to get your wedding ring cut off (and it's gold) it can be put back together near-seamlessly by a good jeweler. I'd wear it on a chain around your neck till that hand heals completely, could be 3-6 months. -If you're interested in safe methods to unload (there are several) take a look at this with dummy rounds: -Remove mag. Grab last 1-2" of rear of slide w/weak hand. Rotate gun & both hands ~180 counterclockwise (lefty's go CW). Retract slide just about any speed. Watch round fall on or near your left foot. Rotate back upright. Retract slide again, show RO your clear chamber. Slide fwd, hammer down, holster. Pick up round you watched fall near your foot. -When unloading, the ejector is on top, extractor below that, primer below that, open ejection port on the very bottom. If a round STILL goes off somehow, the blast is mostly down/left of you & the RO. Just don't stare down your magwell. I have no interest in the flipping arguments, it's been hashed out way too much already.

Most of the posts on here are correct. N105 didn't give me much flash at all but was incredibly loud - ppl would say "I thought your gun was going to give me a heart attack" - loudest thing ever until I tried Longshot. 3N37 gave me a lot of flame-balls but not consistently (different charges behind different bullets might have a small flash); Power Pistol had some of the nicest dot-tracking, easily made Major with no pressure signs, soft... I'd use it today if it wasn't for the flame-balls brighter than the Sun.

If you're attaching to the side of a scope mount, Dawson's thumb rest works pretty well: http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=1FF0000-1094593467 I have one on my Aimpoint mount with an angle & position similar to this photo from Dawson: http://www.dawsonprecision.com/images/012-001.jpg I attached w/glue & dry-fired it for a few days until I was sure where I wanted it, then marked the position, and had a machinist friend drill & tap the scope mount. For a Glock w/no scope mount you might try dishing out the thick section directly forward of the take-down lever. The trick is to not slip and remove material from the bottom of your dished-out section. A Dremel bit is too short and the accessory rail gets in the way so I used a fat drill bit covered in Emory cloth. If you have long thumbs and like using a Bob Vogel type grip (some inward twisting force at the top of both hands) then you might find that's all the thumb shelf you need. I did that to my CCF glock frame and to my plastic glock frame & it works well. The Vogel grip doesn't work that well on my scoped STI (thumb is too high, shelf too far from centerline) and the whole-hand clamping I use on the scoped STI doesn't work that well on the Glocks (shelf too small, too low, too far farward). It's two very different ways to hold the gun, I'm going to try both ways when I have a new Limited STI made for 2013.

I guess if it works for you then keep doing it till it doesn't. It's a rare gun that will hold a short case under the extractor and the cartridge doesn't budge when the FP hits the primer. Maybe it's because the glock striker hit is so weak? With hammer-fired guns & short cases I've seen light primer hits & bad accuracy but maybe the G20 handles it better.

Nitrite is def the way to go. Seen many ppl in health care pick up a latex allergy & it's no fun.

Montana Gold makes a 130 grain, Bayou Bullets makes a 135 grain. Back in the 90's most Open guys shot a CP Bullets 135 FMJ but they went out of business. Might not feel much difference but a 130/135 is less likely to break the speed of sound (~1110 FPS at sea level). Busting the sound barrier dramatically increases the noise of anything: ammo, airplane propellers, weed-eaters etc

G20 should fit in the IPSC box. The G34/35 were made to fit in the box (because the 17L/G24 is too long); the G20 is shorter than a G35, longer than a G17. From magwell to rear sight the height is about the same on any full size glock. The G20 is thicker but not enough to matter; the Box fits 2011 guns whose giant magwells need just a little trim off the sides. I wouldn't want to shoot 40 out of a 10mm barrel for any match that matters. Lots of things can go wrong, a search would probably turn up a lot of details. Accuracy would be sketchy and variation over the chronograph would be large, IF the gun ran well at all. Glock breechfaces can & will erode around the striker hole if the gun shoots at all out of spec.

That's an older Aimpoint Comp. Sent you a PM.

I was wondering the same thing myself. Undercut the triggerguard and flattened out the backstrap of my CCF/G35 to make it point exactly like my Open STI w/Wedge mainspring housing. Undercut the plastic G35 frame, removed fingergroves, removed back checkering - points nice too. You'd have to take a lot more off the backstrap to make it point like an arched or flat MSH 1911/2011.

two videos by Henning on this page: http://www.henningshootsguns.com/tech/tech.tanfoglio.frame.assembly.html