tbarker13

Curious what you mean.

Mine was happening with the Gen3 piring pin and the Gen 4 firing pin. In fact, the Gen 4 firing pin locked up almost every time. I think it's the shape of the pin. But i just put a regular wolf firing pin spring in the gun and the problem seems - so far- to be gone. Now, the question is what impact it will have on ignition. The firing pin spring in my gun was cut to about 60 percent of the size of a regular spring.

Same thing here. They blame a glitch in the inventory system. Oh well, now at least I no longer feel bad about my earlier, more expensive, purchase.

Feeling a little sick in the stomach right now over the one I bought last week for $2k. Of course, it had quite a few upgrades, etc. Still, I overspent on that one by a few hundred dollars. Oh well. I "waste" far more than that every year on ammo.

Just called to check with Bud's - to make sure I have one. Guy says I'm good. And that they have several more in stock.

Ordered one from Bud's. We'll see what happens.

Like Atlas said earlier the pins taper and if too many coils are cut on the return spring the tapered section gets stuck in the hole in the breach face. That's why I'm hoping an uncut firing pin return spring will solve it.

Ordered one of the light firing pin return springs. I'll see what that does for the situation.

Sorry. Forgot to mention. The firing pin stop was actually out of the gun at this point. It had fallen out when I racked the slide. Since the firing pin was stuck forward, there was nothing holding the stop in place. As for the sights, I actually like this style. I had similar sights on my old limited guns.

That worked. Still not quite sure what caused the binding. I did notice that one end of the spring looked a little irregular - either cut or broken.

So I picked up this Stock II today. When I racked the slide, the firing pin stop just fell out of the gun. I look closer and realize that the firing pin is basically stuck in the forward position. I tried nudging it back, but it seems pretty stuck. I don't want to do anything that might damage it, so I thought I'd see if anyone has any thoughts on what's going on.

Awesome.

I think so. But yeah, pics would be awesome.

So I ended up getting one of the TiAlN 0.1040" bits (brand was Monster) and was quite surprised! After hearing all the trouble you guys had with it, I tightened the disco up in my vice with aluminum jaws, chucked up the bit in my cordless drill (1500 RPM) and opened up the hole in no more than 5 seconds! Went back with some 600 then 1500 grit sand paper, and some metal polish on a cardboard q tip shaft. Whole process took me 5 min maybe... Because I was doing it free hand my hole ended up between 0.104 and 0.106, but I'm not concerned. It would have been better on a press but I do not have one at home. The disco flops around completely freely on the pin in the hammer. The factory one was actually slightly snug on the pin. I think the 0.1040" is the right sized bit to go with. I installed it and like many people found I need to do some fitting. BTW, a cut length of cardboard q tip shaft works as a perfect slave pin for test fitting. My plan for fitting it is going to be the following: 1. File the bottom of the wing until the trigger bar is able to drop below it and release the disco/hammer. (Right now it will not) 2. I think only after the first step is done will I consider taking any material off the front of the wing. That will reduce the rearward movement of the hammer on the da pull. I would think you would want that to go as far back as possible without engaging the hammer hooks on the sear. This step may not even be necessary as I've heard from some. 3. Lastly, if I decide I want more pre-travel on my trigger in SA I will remove some material from the back of the main leg where it engages the notch in the middle trigger bar. I'll report back on my experience when I'm done. Every time I think I understand which parts of the disconnector you guys are working on, I get confused again. Particularly when we start talking about tops and bottoms of wings, etc.. Maybe I'm just dense. But it would be so helpful, if one of you guys could post a photo with arrows, pointing to the exact surfaces referenced in posts like the one above. I have a couple of these that I'd like to install in my Stock IIs, but I keep holding off, thinking I'm still not 100 percent sure where I need to remove material.

I'm liking these. free photo upload

Here's mine. Along with the new Henning Grips. imgurl upload gambar

Got a set as well. Not quite as thick as I'd like. A little more aggressive texturing, but I'd still love some VZs.

I've heard of people not having to use overnight for FedEx or UPS. Sometimes it's because they don't declare the shipments as firearms. But the UPS and FedEx offices here require overnight shipping on guns when you are an individual without an FFL.

So the Stock 2 grips will work on the Stock 3. Excellent news.

Sadly, neither of these grips mentions being usable for the Stock III, however.

Not being able to get onto stages head of time would drive me crazy. Actually, I'd just avoid the match if I knew I wouldn't have access to stages. I was pretty frustrated last year at one large match. I was shooting on Saturday and Sunday. Took the day off Friday so I could get to the range in time to walk the stages. I generally time my arrival to get there at the end of the day's shooting - figuring I won't be in the way, and I'll be able to take care of business quicker when the bays are empty. What I didn't realize was that they planned to close the range down 30 minutes or so after the shooting was done. Had I known that, i would have arrived several hours earlier. I'd never run into something like that before, and I learned that it's one more thing to check on before the match. Frankly, I don't see how you could bar prior access to stages - unless you have a way to guarantee that local shooters also are prohibited from looking over the stages ahead of time. That's just too much of a potential advantage.

Try these. http://www.dsperman.com/products/CZSpring/CZSpring.html

As I continue working on my Stock III, I can only agree with the idea of going with the CZ Shadow from the custom shop for your nephew. I think I'm really going to like the Stock III, but it's going to take quite a bit of work to get it to that point - at least compared to the amount of work I had to do to the Shadows.

I feel the same way. Not sure which way to go. Really like the 147s out of my Shadows, but those (at 1.135) are too long to work in the Stock III. I guess i could try shortening those a little to see how they run. Or go to 124s.

That sounds right to me. If the mold for their 135's is the same as Bayou's then the shape of that bullet does force you to load it pretty short. I loved the feel of 135g bullets, but because of loading issues and availability, I have been shooting more 124g in 9mm. Curious what you mean by "loading issues."