sasquatch981

So I have a spare heavy pistol buffer sitting on the bench. I can't remember if it is 7.5 or 10 oz. I'll weigh it, but is there any reason not to use it in a .223 SBR? With an adjustable gas block, and a short 10.5" barrel, will that help keep the bolt closed longer, and lessen the recoil of the short gas impulse? It's late, and I am loopy so I thought I would ask the experts

Is this an issue with the MPX, as it is gas operated, or just crap brass for everyone?

So at yesterday's match, I had a case head separation on the first stage. Total bummer, luckily there was a gunsmith that lived only a few miles from the range, and he was able to get it out. Fast forward to the last stage of the day, and same thing happened again. To that we had another shooter on my squad have a case head separation as well. He was shooting a complete JP rifle, and I have a rifle with JP Bolt, and Wilson Arms Barrel. In looking at both barrels it appears that there is a "ramp" milled into each chamber to allow for easier feeding of the rounds. This ramp is actually milled around the entire circumference of the barrel leaving the "unsupported" area around the entire case. Sort of like the unsupported barrel of a glock but a complete circle. When we found the case that separated, we also noted that it was a IWI case with the "ledge" inside the case right where it separated. Has anyone else had these issues. or did we just have some crazy coincidence and bad brass. I hate the idea of having to sort every 9mm case. If this is the wrong forum, mods feel free to move to gunsmithing, or PCC technical.

Seating and crimping are two separate dies. Dillon 650, Dillon seater, and Lee Factory Crimp. So from the sounds of it, maybe the crimp die, is set to "low" and is pushing the round down when crimping?

Here are some photos of the bell I have on my cases, and the squidgy seating issues I am having. This seems to happen with coated bullets, and now the Rainier Ballistics. Both of them were 115's with the round nose profile. It does not seem to be an issue in my PCC, or a Rock Island 9mm hicap, but it does seem to lock up the glock with the tight aftermarket barrel. Ideas on what to do?

I have always wanted a "commander" like glock. A 19 top-end on a full size lower. Everything I have read says you can't do it? Why? If all the parts are interchangeable, can't you just cut the end of the "frame" to match with the 19 slide profile? Maybe a polymer 80 frame would be the way to go. Just thinking out loud here.

On the JP Site, I see there are (2) silent buffers for the 9mm. One has what looks like (3) Tungsten, and (1) weight, while the other has (3) steels and (2) Tungstens. In the description it says that the "enhanced" buffer i.e. the one with more weights, is best suited for the heavier non JP bolts, as it allows for the bolt to stay closed longer. If you use it with the JP bolt, will it stay closed too long? Which one would be best for a JP bolt with a short barrel. I understand that barrel does not really matter as there is no gas on the bolt, but with the shorter barrel the pressure in the barrel will release (when the bullet exits) faster correct? Just don't want to but the wrong one first.

I have a Gen 1 .243, with a seekins hand-guard. This is the group I shot when I was doing the load development. I then took it to my first "big" PRS match that was not a club shoot. I was able to hit the 1200 yard targets in the wind, and I am not a rifle shooter. The .243 shoots like a laser. As for the scope, the group photo was shot with a Burris 5-25, I now have a Vortex Razor GenII. If you look close in the Classifieds, you can find it there. I like your wife wanted to "try" PRS and did not want to drop several house payments into something I was not sure of. I am hooked, and want to buy a chassis rifle now, so I have to thin the herd to buy new toys. Feel free to shoot me a PM with any other questions.

I read in the 5-page barrel reaming thread that Patriot Defense Reams barrels, but they do not do so to Nitrided ones. As I have a KAW Valley Nitrided barrel, I thought I would ask to see if anyone else provides this service. Maybe in the great NorthWet.....I mean NorthWest

Thanks Bill, I just went through that process with my PRS rifle to find the max OAL that my rifle likes for load development. Didn't think of doing that for this problem, but what a great idea!!!

Ran the plunk test, and it appears I am too long. Buddies ammo is 1.125 with 124GR MG's. Worked fine. My MG 115's are 1.136, and the 147 plated extremes are 1.150. I'll crank out some 1.100's with the small pistol primers and see how that works. Thanks guys.

Just follow with me for a second. I just got my tax stamp, so I can now put the evil upper and lower half together. Took it out to the range for some testing, and was having issues. It appears that my rifle does not like my ammo maybe 50% fired. No problem, the ammo I had on hand had used small rifle primers instead of of small pistol. I thought this might be an issue so a buddy lent me some of his ammo with pistol primers and the everything went bang. However when trying to source the solution, I thought it might be the trigger being to light, or possibly the bolt and FP combo being too short etc.. Parts are an Aero Upper, KAW Valley Precision 8.5" Barrel, and a generic 9mm Bolt cut for Glock mags. Palmetto State Glock Lower, and A Velocity Triggers 3lb flat trigger. The buddy that lent me his ammo also lent me his JP bolt to see if my bolt was the issue. As stated above once I changed to his ammo everything went bang so no issues with the trigger etc. However when I went back to my ammo, and switched bolts again, I noted that when all my ammo would not go bang, when I pulled the charging handle back to eject the dud round, it would not extract it. I thought this might be an issue with the generic bolt, and swapped to the JP. JP did not fire my ammo, and would also not extract the duds either. Even had (1) round of my buddies ammo that did not go bang, and when I tried to extract that one, it did not extract. Any ideas? 2 bolts same issue.

Hi Eric, Standard RRA 9mm Buffer 5.6 oz.

So I was reading about the all the different combinations in thread below, but could not really determine the consensus on what was working, and nothing really sounded like what I have, so I thought I would post this. I have a 8.5" upper, and carbine stock (with spacer in back for less bolt travel). I was reading about removing the weight from the bolt, and using a .308 buffer spring with the 9mm Buffer. Does this sound right? Obviously I want to try and reduce dot jump as much as possible, but I don't want to beat up the parts. What combination seems to be best for a short barrel set-up or does it really matter in 9mm?

Just curious, if anyone has ever tried to to use an aftermarket piston driven system like adam arms, osprey defense, etc on a 9mm AR build. Now before you go an say "the 9mm AR is a blowback design", I know that. I am thinking outside the box here. Trying to lighten the carrier, and all the reciprocating weight. Afterall the Sig MPX is a piston 9mm, and the recoil is alot less than a typical 9mm AR. Just curious as to what you other tinkerers may think.

I seem to be having issues finding a nice accurate load for 9mm minor using Competition, and I have a keg of Silhouette, and CFE Pistol. Any good recipes out there for either of these with MG 115's?

Thanks Guys, I was able to pick up a used GenI .243 (100 logged rounds) with the Seekins 15" Handguard, and LRI Bolt Shroud (essentially a GenII) for $975 shipped on another forum (Snipers Hide). Keep your eyes open, and be patient, and they show up!!!

Looking for a Ruger RPR Gen II in 6.5 that is not all price jacked, and by that I mean $1300 or below. Any leads would be appreciated.

Call Taylor Freelance, Robin should be able to hook you up with what you want. He is just down the street, and I have always gotten what I need from him.

I purchased a used Browning A5, I was told it had the old (pre-MXT) tube that had the extension tube nut turned on a lathe to fit the browning forearm. If I recall correctly the tube was from a Winchester SX2, or FN SLP as the thread pitches were the same. So I can get (11) in the tube, with about 1/2 of the next shell in before it bottoms out on the spring. I was thinking since it was the old tube, if I could find an old XXL tube end I could get the extra 1/2 shell in the tube, and be able to hold (12), or 8 at the start, and then quad load for (12) if needed on the stage. Shock of all shocks I found an XXL cap, but it doesn't fit the tube. It is too narrow, (just a touch smaller). I just read in a another post, that all I need to get is a new MXT "extension" tube and end cap, as the old thread pitch is the same. Is that correct? Secondly, what size extension would I get if I want to load 12 overall in the tube? Lastly do you think it would just be easier to sell the entire set-up I have, and just buy a new MXT set-up/

Ironically enough, it was the bolt. Put in an un-ramped colt bolt, and trigger reset each time. Thanks for all the help guys.

Like I said above, the lower works fine with other uppers in place. Since this is the registered lower I swap it around. It works fine on all the the others, just not the 9mm. I am pretty sure is has something to do with the bolt, as with .223 bolts it resets fine. If it were the trigger set screw, or the disconnector, I would assume it would cause problems with the other uppers as well. It is only with the 9mm that it does not reset after the intial break. If I release the trigger completely after the shot it will reset.

I posted this on AR15.com as well, but thought I would get as many ideas as I can. I am building a new 9mm SBR upper, and have issues with the trigger resetting. I had an old RRA 9mm 16" upper that I recently sold and I wanted a 9mm again so I decided to build. Parts are: Aero Slick Non-forward assidt upper. MAS Defense Ramped Bolt (for Colt, and Glock Pattern) VM-Hytech Lower (the old lower from the RRA upper) Hahn Bottom Loading block (super tight fit needs to be tapped into place with dead-blow hammer) Jard Adjustable Trigger KNS Pins Now most of the parts are from the old RRA except the upper, bolt, and block. The block should not be an issue as that does not have anything to do with the trigger. That leaves the upper and the bolt. When I cycle bolt it will reset the trigger in (3) different lowers. However, it will not reset if the trigger is held back after the break of the shot. Thinking it might be the trigger (not sure why nothing changes from the RRA set-up), I swapped the upper onto the other (3) lowers and the same thing happens. The trigger will not reset if held back. I was thinking maybe because the ramped bolt was set for glocks as well, that might be the problem, but that "should" not be an issue. Any ideas? [:/]

Awesome, thanks for the answer. Just need to be patient!!!!