sasquatch981

Has the new "match management" reached out to you chuck? Just curious if they want to keep the match going under a new name if they want to pick the brain of the guy that ran the previous ones. I'm glad I got to shoot last years, and hope to be a part of the future night matches.

Yep Saker 7.62, spellcheck got me.

Wondering if the RT1500 can be used with the GSI tool head with the port. I know that Dillon says you need to use the special recessed tool head for the RT1500 and blackout trim dies due to the case being so short, but does the integral vacuum port mean it can be used with the RT1500?

How are you trimming to 1.38"? Are you using the GSI die set, or the same forming die, and adjust it down for the second pass?

Has anyone tried this combo? Was thinking about trying this as it would appear to my lizard brain that the longer gas tube, coupled with the adjustable gas system would allow for a soft shooting AND that would not beat the crap out of the receiver. I will also be running a sales 7.62 on this. Will the suppressor their a monkey into this wrench as well?

So i have been reading and see there are (2) basic methods of forming the brass for .300 blackout. 1)RT1500, special Dillon tool head, and Dilion Carbid die 2)RT1200, GSI Tool Head, and (2) GSI dies, Rough Cut, and then Final Cut. So if I understand correct, you can prep all your brass, and then send it through the Dillon Carbide Die with 1500 and call it done in one pass. However, in Brian's Dillon store, it says the 1500 should not be used on anything other than forming .300. With the GSI tool head, (which I like better with the vacuum port), you prep all the brass, set up of the rough cut trimmer, and run all the brass through once. Install the final trim die, and motor (likely a second tool head) just for adjustments sake, and run all the rough cut brass through a second time to trim to length and final size. Am I missing something here? Seems to defeat purpose of getting a RT1500 if it is only supposed to be used on .300. Then conversley, it seems like a PITA to have to process a single piece of brass twice to get the right length. Has anyone used a GSI tool head (with vacuum manifold) and a dillon die to do it all in one pass with a RT1500, or RT1200. Secondly if you want to keep the RT1200 to trim other cases, what is the best method for removing the motor, and not having to completely reinvent the wheel when attaching it to the other tool head? Hope this all makes sense.

But there's more stuff on it now!!!!

Just curious what the going rate is for a used Super 1050 set up in .223. The dies are not dillion, but a mixture of Redding, Lee, and RCBS. Thanks

I was reading a thread on AR15.com about the "$28 bullet feeder". Basically a Hornady bullet feeder die, and assorted sizes of plastic tubing for bullets. Seems to work pretty slick. Basically like a primer feed assembly. Question I have is, has anyone ever used the Hornady die, with the Lee rotating bullet tube assembly? Looks a lot like the Mr. Bullet Feeder Mini, but at $50 instead of $150 thought I would ask.

I recently purchased a used 1050 that does not have a powder measure, or caliber conversion. I bought the .223 conversion kit, so that is squared away. But is the powder measure and powder die the same as the 650? I have a couple of those laying around and thought I could just swap one into the 1050. Thanks.

“Custer Z-Pocalypse,” our Zombie-themed 3-gun charity event, will be held on October 11, 2014 at the Custer Sportsmen’s Club, Custer WA. This event, formerly called the Custer Stocking Stuffer Challenge, is gearing up for its fourth year with plans to raise more funds for Toys for Tots than ever. This event is special. A full 85% of our match fees and 100% of our raffle ticket, and auction proceeds go directly to charity—Toys for Tots. In 2013 we donated just shy of $6500 worth of brand new toys in a year when Toys for Tots was desperate for donations. The toys generated by this event gave Christmas to many families who would have otherwise gone without. Match Fee $85 Sign up here: https://clubs.practiscore.com/z-pocalypse-ii/register This is a single day 6-stage match. October 11th, 2014 Custer Sportsmen's Club 3000 Birch Bay Road Lynden WA 98240

So I have a 650 set up to process brass with various tool-heads. Tool Head (1) Universal de-capper set in station 1 nothing else on tool head. Send all brass back to 1050 for swaging, sizing, trimming, and neck size. Then back to 650 for loading tool-head. Bump shoulder, prime, powder, seat, and crimp. Problem I am having is this: As the case comes off the slider bar from the case feeder, it only lines up with the universal de-capper about 20% of the time. I have to tap it with my finger to get it to go into the de-capper. Then everything is fine. I have turned the little black triangular doo-dad (official Dillon part name), that slides with the articulator arm on the feeder that drops the case, the shell plate is tight (no play) Have the proper conversion parts in etc. Any ideas?

Just a heads up, I got an e-mail from Grabagun.com that the 24" is back in stock. Who knows how long, but thought I would pass it along.

Thanks to Kurt I have found one

Looking for a Beretta 1301 24" and can't seem to find any anywhere. Anyone have any leads, and what the shop/distributor is asking for them? My local shop says he can't find any even to order. Thanks.

Any news on the M&P basepad?

So with the threads of barrel issues with the factory 9mm, and a new factory barrel coming out with a higher twist rate, different locking lugs etc, do the KKM, and Storm Lake barrels have better accuracy over the factory "new style" barrels?

Any benefits with one or the other for a Beretta 1301? Also does anyone have photos of a 21" with an extenstion, maybe a +3 or +4?

Please I would love to see the DIY thread, I am about to take the plunge and open the port myself.

BlackHole sponsored out Toy's for Tot's match by donating an 18" Stainless barrel for the raffle rifle we gave away. During function testing the rilfle was plenty accurate shooting 55's out to 400+. Next time I need a barrel that is direction I am headed.

There is a monthly multi-gun match at Custer March-December. It is typically 5-6 stages, heavy on close up rifle action, but Steve the match director is moving it more towards a true multi-gun. This past year we have been having at least 2-3 of the stages being pistol/rifle, rifle/shotgun/ shotgun/pistol. Its been great and continues to get better. We just had our 2nd annual Toy's for Tot's chairty match. Raised over $5000 so far and we still have an open "blind and silent" auction for a Colt CRP-18. 100% of the proceeds will go to Toy's for Tots. If we are lucky will be well over $6,000 from all the donations.

So I am new to glocks, but got a (new to me) Glock 34 gen4. It has a vanek trigger, and a 12lb recoil spring. I have noticed when dry firing, that when I pull the trigger and striker goes click, if I keep my finger on the trigger pressed back (to shoot the reset of the trigger) rack the slide again, that the slide is very "loose and rattely", Once I let the trigger reset the slide seems to lock up tight again. Is this normal. I never noticed this on my M&P's before. Just curious.

From the RO side of things, I would say alot of us have a soft spot for you and Doug!!!! Wait that came out wrong, I mean we like you guys.....wait that's wrong too....Crap!!! I'll shut up now Thanks again for the great match, and expect another RO appication when the dates are confirmed. See you at the Custer Toys for Tot's Chairty Match.

How do you tell? It's pretty old, but I have not bought a new one in some time, and did not know they changed.

After getting the boresnake out, i did use the "front-half" of the old borsnake to pull through the barrel to see if there were any snags created by the drill. Luckily I did not touch the sides of the barrel with the drill.