sasquatch981

So I am wondering if you get the MP Pro 5" barrel from Apex, and Can you have it threaded for a suppressor if the barrel is a used an standard M&P and have enough threads for it to work? Furthermore does anyone know if Apex will make suppressor ready barrel?

Just a heads up to anyone wanting to try this. I ended up cutting 25 coils from the stock spring (original had 84 coils), and it would still not cycle the B&P low recoil slugs. I stopped cutting coils, as I did not want to cause any damage. Looks like I either have a single shot slug gun, or a case of slugs to sell.

As good a place as any to ask this. So Browning sent me a new action spring, to try and get the B&P slugs to cycle. They said clip a few coils until it cycles, and then test for reliabilty with other ammo as well. Sounds great, except how do I get to the action spring? I have pulled the stock, and have the action tube assembly exposed just like fig. 39 on page 47 of the manual. http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/11-bfa-382-a5-om.pdf There is a roll pin just to the left of the "arrow" in the photo. It's in there really good, and I don't want to beat it out *unless" needed. Has anyone else gotten the spring out before for a change? If so how did you do it?

I find the humor in the fact I am being admonished for not reading the manual, when apparently my (2) sentence question was not read until the end!!! I don't see it mentioned in the instructions, so what is it for? There is no picture of it in the manual, so therefore it does not exist!!!!

So I took it out of the box, put everything together, and have this tool that I never used. I don't see it mentioned in the instructions, so what is it for?

Awesome Thanks

My Google-FU is weak, and all I can find is exploded views for the old Auto-5 that has the semi-rotating barrel. Does anyone know where I can find one? Brownells, and Browning have been no good. Thanks. This is the one that keeps popping up, but is for the "Auto 5", not the new "A5" The reason I ask, is that in order to try and get B&P Slugs to cycle, Browning sent me a "recoil spring" part # B1181129AE that I can cut coils from to try and make it work. However the spring they sent is about 13" long, and I don't recall seeing a spring like this anywhere in the gun when I stripped it down. It is part #1 listed in this diagram, so I am wondering if they sent me the wrong part.

Called Browning yesterday, and explained to the customer parts department that my A5 would not cycle low recoil slugs. Explained that I wanted to buy a new action/recoil spring to cut coils and try to get it to cycle. Lady asked for my address, and said she would ship one out for free!!!! I'll keep you posted on if it works.

Physics man, physics, said the hairy mythical creature!!!

Then what makes an inertia bolt move faster? If a light load is what makes the bolt move, wouldn't a lighter one move faster, as there is no gas system bleeding off the pressure?

Does anyone know if there is a smith out there that lightens A5 Bolts like the Benelli's? If so, that might be the ticket to run the B&P's.

Sorry should have given a little information before. Have shot several different loads slugs through before the match. B&P's Perfect POI and POA, but won't cycle Fiocchi full power and low recoil All shot furhter left Federal Law Enforcement Low Recoils, Federal Penetrator Low Recoils all shoot left Breneke were not even on paper This was all done before the match, and hence the reason for the Gobble dot. Once the sight was on and adjusted still shot left. The frustrating part is I have a case of the B&P's!!!!

Just shot the Oregon 3Gun Championship in bend and had a great time. Shot a gazillion slugs, and was having difficulties. They shoot 6-8" left, even with the Gobble-Dot adjusted all the way to the right. I have heard of people whacking the barrel against a tree to solve this problem, but the idea of taking an $1100 shotgun and hitting a tree with it does not sit well with the little lizard brain I have. Any ideas? Thanks

No worries, I will call Blade-tech, they are fairly local to me. Problem I have found being a lefty is, normal folded kydex is not an issue you just have to attach the belt loops etc. the the other side. When you throw in mechanical levers, buttons, etc, for a lefty, everything has to be "re-tooled" for the injection molder, and that takes 10's of thousands of dollars for 10% of the population, and then subtract out how many non-shooting lefties there are, and it makes it cost prohibitive. I have been messaging with Bobby Mcgee of Safari-land, and he said no go on the ALS.

Davsco, can you post a link to which one you saw? When I checked, (at least for a 2011 with long dust cover, or tactical" they would not allow for a lefty.

So I have a safariland ALS for my glock, but I am moving to a 2011. I like the ALS, but they do not make one for a 2011. So I was looking at the bladetech WRS and like that design, but again it appears it is not lefty friendly. Any ideas for a southpaw?

I should have been more clear, ZEV Fulcrum, in the 3-Gun pistol.

What is the vertical test. I have swapped the original recoil assembly back in for now, but it slams the nose down when fired with minor loads.

I have a G17 Gen4 with a newly installed ZEV Fulcrum trigger, and a 12lb recoil spring. When I shot it at the local match this past weekend, I had several issues where when the trigger was pulled the gun goes bang , then during the letting off of the trigger for reset, either: A) The trigger would remain in the rearward position. rack the slide feed a new round and it would work again for that shot, and then the trigger would not reset again. Think of a single action G17, in production (or five rounds to shoot per magazine!!!) or If the trigger did reset it would give me a light strike. So I replaced the striker spring with a heavier unit to deal with the possibly harder primers (Winchester). I ran out of Federals. That seems to have taken care of the light strikes for now. I will probably still get an extended striker in the future. Here is a video I took at the range the other day when trying to diagnose the problem, As you can see when the trigger is pulled, the slide can be seen "clicking into battery". Over several pulls it does this quite often, but not all the time. Any ideas of how to remedy this, other than tapping the back of the slide after every shot!!!! https://www.facebook.com/matt.pridachuk/videos/10206939669558649/

Let me know what you find out when you get out to the range. That is exactly the type of info I was looking for.

So I just read through the 14-pages of the other thread, and can't seem to either find the answer I need, or have thoroughly confused myself. So I will keep it simple and to the point. I am looking at the .22TCM/9mm (RI51947) Does this have an Ambi-safety from the factory? Which hi-caps (numbers please) have the ambi from factory if not. If using STI mags, what is the deal with the aftermarket mag-catches. What is the purpose, and are they needed? I understand that a little fitting of the STI mags may be needed to drop free, if using 140's is the special mag catch needed to keep from over inserting the mag, or something else. Also if using a 140, it should not matter what base pad is used because the mag will be below the magwell correct? Has anyone used SV mags, or the clones with any success? What can I expect round count wise in a 140 (9mm) with a dawson pad +1 or SNL? Has anyone used the Taran Tactical 4g kits with any success? Thanks.

Love the show!!!! I like watching for the little 80's easter eggs in the show. Usually in the background on TV. Like Jason Alexander in a Hershey's commercial, and I love looking for the cool 80's Tech!!!!

It might be too early to tell if anyone other than Taran Butler has seen this in person and shot it yet, but I saw his you-tube video about it and thought I would see if anyone else has any hands on experience with it? How does it compare to the Swaro, and Razor HDII? Looking at the specs, the Swaro is still lighter, but at 2x the cost that is a hard pill to swallow. It is also nearly 5oz lighter than the Razor. I think it would compare favorably to the Razor as the price point is the same, and I know the TR-24's have clear glass, and it may be a preference thing, but what has anybody here seen one in person and can compare?

Sorry about that, I was multi-tasking at the father daughter banquet, and put my phone in my pocket. Must has auto corrected a hole sentence!!!! Draw and Duck hit the nail on the head, that is the exact place. Thanks!!!!

At one time, I found a Web page that sold poppers that were a 2 piece system. A base that was staked to the ground, and then the popper that sat in the frame. I want to say they were out of Montana or wyoming. I seem to remember a horse head on the website, and I believe they did diesel work as well. Any idea of who I am thinking of? Any help would be great. Thanks, Matt