rwmagnus

On that stage you had to use sights. What you don't want to do after the reload is get your thumb under the safety. Ask me how I know. Engaging the safety and ignoring the roller coaster brake at the same time isn't recommended!

Amen Brother! Mine is a Pro SC Bob's guns have a great reputation for a reason. Hope I meet him at Area 2. His Opens have to be awesome.

Saweet, exactly what the patient needed. Thanks.

uscbigdawg I sent Matt an email asking for the timing drills but no answer. I most likely caught him out of town and the email mgot lost in cyberspace. I do have most all his videos except this one. His DVD's are awesome. They use to be on his site but my timing is wrong cause they ain't there anymore hence the need. I even printed them out but can't find those either, lol.

Where can I find Matt's timming drills. I can't seem to find it on his website anymore. I have a new open gun I want to put thru the paces.

Nice choice, you won't regrett it. Glock 35 can take you a long way in this sport. Recently went to S_I myself and for the average shooter the differences between it and the Glock are significant. Not knocking the Glock at all because it's a nice platform as well. Lot's of things can be done relatively low cost to slick em up as well. Still your SVI purchase was a good one. Sounds like a good financial manager you have there!

ditto... Wilson - 8rd..extended base pad. CMC - 10rd Knock on wood I've never had a problem with anyones mags in any of my single stack 45ACP pistols. I like the disassembly of the CMC mags the best. Stay with quality and buy the equipment once.

Tolly Nice blaster indeed and a very good choice. Hard to go wrong with Kimber they offer a lot of value and quality. Go burn up a couple thousand rounds and break her in! Sights, mag wells etc are personal choices and easy to change in the future. Nice picture thanks for sharing it with us.

Nerves, Reloading is easy and Dillon is the way to go. Having a shooting/reloading friend help walk you through the paces is nice but not manditory. Research the presses each has it's benefits and drawbacks. I use two 550B's and one has a case feeder on it. Got them used and saved some coin. They usually stay in good shape. 550's are reliable and easy to work on. If your ammo volume is 2500+/month then a 650 might be a good choice. Some don't like the primer system on the 650. I'll say there is a big difference between a 550 w/ case feeder and one w/o. My vote goes to a case feeder on a reloader. You can find very good Open guns for sale here for reasonable prices. Many are built by top quality gunsmiths around the country. There are so many variables but I'd suggest researching and picking a caliber first then shop for the platform. The subject is debated agressively but I prefer 9MM Major. Obviously reloading is a must. About the only limitation you'll find is in your checkbook, LOL. edit: From the builders you selected it would be hard to go wrong. Good luck shopping. Open is a blast (punn intended)

My expierence with painted grips is they are slippery and there isn't an easy way to keep paint on the trigger guard since most speed rigs grip the gun there. They look way cool however. I'd like to know if there is a way to get paint to stay on the trigger guard.

I had MMC on a Glock 35 then went to Dawson. I didn't care for the .035" set screws in the MMC, they worked loose one too many times. For me the Dawsons are the way to go along with their fiber optic up front.

Talk to me dude. I had a deal lined up on one but it fell through. PM me with your price or post here.

Wow 8.9gr HS6 man that's alot of powder. I do like how it meters. I'm running a full size gun. Why run a small rifle primer? I've been using a Federal sm pistol primer in all my reloads. I'm intrigued with the 115gr bullet. Is the 115gr MG CMJ a hollow point? What recoil system do you run in your gun? Any shock buff? I'm going to try it out.

Well I answered some of my own questions such as Universal Calys not working for major. Nobody picked up on the 115 grainers for 9mm Major so I'm guessing 125's are the way to go. My expierence so far: STI 4 ports in comp 125gr JHP Zero bullets Mixed brass 1.180"OAL 8.1gr HS6 1,347fps 168.4 pf As always work up your loads carefully as all guns are different especially Open blasters!

Interesting, I was under the impression that the hard-sided locked container that contains the firearm had to be inside your suitcase, but looking on the TSA website I see that that is not a requirement. Does that mean that the external locks on your Pelican 1560 or 1650 have to be TSA approved locks or else you might have them cut off? Do you think that there is any advantage to having the firearms container "hidden" inside a regular suitcase? Maybe I am just worrying too much... Thanks, Cor Cor, not sure about the TSA requirement but I fly a lot with guns and the airlines I've been on want a hard case with locks then inside a seperate suitcase. The ammo thing is week to week as it alsways changes but most want ammo up to 11lbs in a seperate case than the suitcase with the gun in it. TSA approves seperate locks are almost manditory unless you want to be buying locks. My bags have been inspected a second time after passing the TSA stage. They go down to baggage loading area and bags get spot checked again so that is when TSA locks come in handy. I'm more concerned about my golf clubs than my handguns because my gun luggage looks like eveeryone elses which is why I put red nylon TSA lockable straps on my bags so they can be spotted easier.

Try eBay do a search for NEW PRO DOUBLE SIDED ALUMINUM HANDGUN PISTOL GUN CASE seller greatdeals00. This case can be bought inexpensively and it's very good quality can handle up to 4 pistols. Another I own is the NEW PRO HARD ALUMINUM PAINTBALL PAINT GUN CASE also from the same seller. It's identical to the S&W Case for my S&W627 except for the dark color. I like it for a thinner alternative and up to 2 pistols. BTW I have no connection to this seller other than leaving him positive feedback on the two cases he sent me. You don't need to spend alot of money on good cases. They will be locked inside another suitcase as checked baggage anyway. edit: ParaJoe- I saw a trick thin case at a local gun store. A friend said it was a cigar case but I doubt it. What was so nice about it was it's size, about 12"L X 7"W X 2"H perfect for a Glock and some mags. aprox $25. Lots of options out there. Aluminum is nice locable is a must but that's about it for the airlines. I travel extensively with mine.

Were you staying on the front sight while transitioning between targets? (Riding the front sight?) Unfortunatelt yes the early strings (old habits die hard). I think that is when I dropped the shots 9:00 just outside the "A" zone as I didn't have a hard specific spot to drive the gun to. My faster runs were snapping my eyes to the next target then to the sight. With just one shot per target it was easy to fall back to the old habit of riding the front sight to the next target especially since they were so close to each other.

I shot this drill today. Some lessons learned... 1. Shoot A's I had 3 seconds in penalities raising my average from 4.73 to 5.24 sec. 2. Keep it smooth. 3. Stay focused on front sight. 4. My draw needs a lot of work averaging 1.4 seconds ( saving .4 sec over 6 strings would be significant). 5. The more I shot it the smoother and faster the times were. Nice drill to work in the practice sessions. Waiting for Part 2.

I just ran across this drill Brian suggested. I'll do it this Saturday. I was actually searching here for Matt Burkett's gun timing drills link as I couldn't find it on his site.

That JB weld thing is a great idea. I'd just trash it but it's drilled and tapped plus hard chromed to match the gun. Again not the end of the world to trash it

Okay guys I'll try the glue idea. Didn't know supeglue had a gel but that seems safer. Not alot of options I'm afraid because that screw head is sooooo small. I should have had my reading glasses on!

Yes I considered superglue but I can't get any under the screw in the spring or it's toast.

I pulled a bonehead move my forcing the right side magazine release screw (support side for right handed shooter) and broke half the head off. Now I can't get the screw to turn to take out the assembly to finish taking the gun apart. I'm away form home at the moment but thinking of a solution and thought I'd post here. I spent about 20 minutes trying to coax the screw into the release position with a small screw driver, but couldn't gete any traction on the screw head. I'm guessing it has to be drilled out. I'd like not to destroy the release but that's not the end of the world either. Any suggestions?

Congratulations to Theo Carter a BE member and SoCal shooter on finishing 1st in your class and earning your “A” card at Nationals. That was a smok’n good performance and a nice battlefield promotion …Job Well Done!

I started using slip2000 at the is years IRC for my revolvers. It's very good. All metal cleaned with it needs to be lubercated and be very careful if using it on blued metal. Still works but I wouldn't soak it for more than 8-10 minutes. My results didn't have lead floating to the top but it did significantly soften it so that a toothbrush and plastic pick tool was all that was needed Shoot JHPs thru compensated guns it's a lot easier to clean up afterwards.