rwmagnus

USPshooter nice job, you're hooked! Observations 1. Weak hand strips out empty magazine sometimes, costs time. 2. Looked like you hesitated on the shooting direction after the reload on the classifier, costs time. 3. Steel... don't miss, costs time, LOL. 4. Finish the reload as you start to leave the position, have gun up on target as you enter the new shooting position. Notice they were observations not advise. Like others said you did a really nice job. Looks like a nice range. That Texas Star stage sounds wicked.

....nice work!

+1 Very nice article and glad to see you tackle the task. Keep up the good work!

I'm late to the party but that's a very nice looking G35! Mine is set up pretty similar. I want to refinish the slide and can't decide between NP3 and Hard Chrome. The Lightning Strike Aluminum trigger cosmetic or function? Again very nice.

I like the idea of black dots on the dry fire targets. I find in competition I focus to a small spot on my draw target but as the stage progresses my target focus becomes less narrow. Maybe there's a lesson in there somewhere.?! edit: You guys must have X-Ray vision to see "A" perfs on a target once the action starts.

Brown would be very cool. I'm interested as well. The alternative is to print them on brown paper.

Hence the reason I asked after reading the same artice. Good thing I was a Grunt vs a Soldier, they wanted accuracy. Most everyone has told me accuracy is what counts and speed will come. I shoot most matches at about 90-95% of available points but the speed issue is what kills me. I get beat on speed not points! Many havae said a fast "C" is fine, deal with it and move on. Old habits die hard sometimes being an ex-Bullseye shooter holds me back from breaking the shot faster. I' feel like I'm getting there, but I'd rather be the hare than the tortoise right now in this race, LOL! Yea yea yea I know the shooot as fast as you can see, see what you need to see statements are comming etc etc. Like I said the journey has many twists and I'm getting there. Guess I'm evaluating my road traveled to others. "....removing hesitations so that there is speed." ahhh yes Grasshopper you've hit the nail on the head. This is a big part of why I can be measured with a sundial . An "A" is an "A" regardless if it's centered or on the edge but sometimes the trigger finger doesn't cooperate!

What is easier to teach in your opinion accuracy or speed in IPSC shooting? Why? Answer taking into consideration that points are important.

JFD Brass mag well is good. The hot ticket now is the Novak Stainless Steel or the Dawson Ice mag wells. I've got the Novak and like it. I think the Ice has an even bigger opening however. I'd give this one more thought. I made most all the same mods including a KKM bbl. My RS trigger goes in this week and I'm done. All these changes help but none are earth shattering. Are they worth it in the end? I'd say yes.

JFD +1 on boo radley. Bump your load to 4.4gr and you're making major and give it some time. It's a different platform and for that matter any new pistol will take some time to get use to and that's after it's dialed in. Lots of advise here as well as posts hoe to set it up and it is pretty much a personal thing. My only input is sights. I believe the factory sights can be improved very easily. My preference is for a thinner front sight for more precission. Other than that just run it but give it time before it gets relegated to safe queen status. LOL at least shoot it in dry conditions!

Pictures? Bet it makes Major!!!!

This thread got me thinking about long range shooting. A couple days ago I decided to give this a go at 50 yards with a Glock 35. It was towards the end of my practice session. I shot 4 six round strings. The first two were at the "A" zone and I held all of them in the "A" zone. It was however a rather large verticle spread. The last two strings were head shots and I managed all 12 in the head though two were on the lower perfs. Not bad results. I did find I needed to hold at the top of the head to around an inch over. I'd guess from this limited test I need about +2" holdover at 50 yards. The gun is zeroed for 15 yards. I need to spend some time getting to know this G35, it's a new gun for me. So far I've shot about 5 matches with it and it's a pretty nice platform.

HSMITH...welcome to BE.com. My take is you need to do both well. Reloading on the move is usually the more efficient thing to do. Many of the better shooters seem to actually get the reload done very early in the transition to movement then have the gun up and on target when they arrive in the new position. Try to plan your stages to avoid standing reloads. This is an area (reloading) where dryfiring can really make a huge difference.

That's why I don't pick up others brass. If I plan on shagging brass I mark mine before I shoot. Brassman sells once fired 40 brass cheap. "4.3 of titegroup with a 180 gr. zero JHP. OAL was 1.125" is a safe load, I shoot 4.4gr, 180JHP at 1.128". Other than a bad piece of brass you could have expierenced bullet setback increasing the rounds pressure. Glad to hear you wern't hurt other than slight powder burn. And if I didn't say it earlier "Pay Attention" when you reload. No distractions. I like to weigh powder charges & OAL every 25 rounds. I never reload for speed just take your time and do it right the first time. I think the 40S&W has gotten a bad rap for KB's when in reality it's mostly shooter or reloader error. A stock box Glock .40S&W is as safe as anything out there to shoot. Hell the factory and self defense ammo is more stout than what most IPSC shooters reload to!

The 40S&W is a high pressure round. I only shoot my reloads or factory. When you reload pay attention to what you are doing and you'll be fine. The factory barrel is fine. IMO most of the KB's are due to double charging the reload. It doesn't matter what you're shooting when mistakes in reloading are made which is why I say pay attention. From what I've seen the gun is toast, frame and grips can creck, barrel and hood can split. Injuries are usually minor but that may not always be the case. IMO the G35 and 40S&W round are very safe. Nothing really needs to be done to the platform, just go shoot it. Plenty of modifications can be done to satisfy your personal tastes. If you reload I highly recomment the EGW under sizing die. You will eliminate the Glock bulge and forget about bullet setback. I also feel the Lee factory crimp Die (FCD) is a good investment. YMMV but I will not reload 40's without them now. Bottom line go shoot it.

Travis I researched after market barrels also and went with the KKM. For the record the stock barrel is fine and shouldn't scare you, it's perfectly safe. While true it isn't a fully supported barrel neither are the after market ones. I believe I read the after markets support about 90% of the case. My guess is your concern is the brass buldge. True the KKM and other after markets help this issue just get a EGW sizing die and you're good to go. If you double charge a 40 S&W round it won't matter who's barrel you have it's gonna be toast. If you go the fitted route it's the cost of the barrel + labor $50-100 depending on who does the work. I don't know all that is needed to fit a blank, the drop in barrels are cut to the average a little tighter than the stock. The drop in barrels will also help a little in the accuracy department. Good luck in your search.

It's an easy pistol to get comfortable with quickly. Here are a couple sites that may help you. www.TopGlock.com disassembly guides: http://www.topglock.com/info/info.htm The Glock Cleaning FAQ: http://www.f-r-i.com/glock/FAQ/FAQ-clean.htm

ANSWER: Superior platform, hexagonal rifling for better bullet-to-bore seal. @4.2gr the Glock is 60fps faster and the deviation is 20fps vs 21fps @4.5gr the Glock is 62fps faster and the deviation is 26fps vs 41fps @4.7gr the Glock is 19fps faster and the deviation is 21fps vs 71fps WOW did you really load 4.7gr TG for the Glock that has to be right there at the limit. Real ANSWER: I don't know. Free bump.

shred....I only wish for the days my eyes were that good to see the scoring zones on a swinging target, but I like the advise. I basically shoot for the center of the down zero when the target get almost at the bottom of the arc then again on it's start back up. It also depends on the speed of the mover and complexity of the shot (ie like no shoots near by). Yesterday I had one in a match requiring 3 hits and hard cover was an issue from 12 yards. I put two on the target when almost at the bottom of the arc and one on it's way up, my total was down two. Actually had a nice group but they were low on the down zero circle hence two -1's. I was pleased with it. Lesson learned: Keep the sights a little higher on the target.

LMAO. Amen to that, who doesn't in this sport! I must admit I haven't cleaned a primer pocket in years so I'll give you priority in the counseling line . Actually nothing wrong with producing the highest quality reloads you can. For me there is a cross over point, after all I am now shooting a Glock . Now before the flames start I like Glocks but I have several other guns that are more accurate. But I hear what you're saying. Shoot well.

TLS You hinted at it when you said this is action shooting not benchrest. I agree with everything you said but match grade reloading requires case measurement, new cases, high quality bullets, primers and don't forget to weight the powder and bullet for each round. Guess you can get carried away with the details. I believe it is still a very nice die and if I were shooting long range rifle it would definately be in the press. Just for the record MidwayUSA.com has them for $53 and I've never seen a SawBuck stop anybody in this sport! OTH the EGW Sizer I now think is a very good idea. I better understand why those who use it have no concern about bullet setback. I bought one as a less expensive alternative to a Case Pro to get rid of the bellied Glock brass. It too is an awesome piece of equipment. I had to clean up my primer system the other night and I thought it was a good time to try this die. I'll not go back to regular dies for sizing .40 S&W brass.

The competition seating die IS really trick but not necessary for action shooting like IPSC. I think you will be pleased with the Lee dies and yes the Lee FCD is necessary. 45ACP is a slam dunk to reload although I would still suggest tungsten dies. You only have to buy them once. Be patient on eBay and you'll find a deal on a set, 45ACP is a popular one. Once you get the 650 setup leave it alone, use a second press to reload other less used calibers. If not you'll have dies, primer system and case feeder adjustments to deal with. IMO it's a PITA. Once you get spoiled on the 650 it will be time to pony up for the 1050!

I agree that's an awesome setup, but the ultimate is a CASE PRO for case prep! BTW I ran into a bulged case that wouldn't cooperate last nght. The Dillon sizer didn't take it out but the Lee FCD did it's job. I bet my setup would work for most Glocks shooters. Again 3 Dillon dies and the Lee FCD in the final stage.

I'm running Dawson fiber optic up front and MMC fixed in the rear. It was an upgrade that was already on the gun. I wanted the Dawsons so finding this setup was a bonus. I agree that sights should be the first upgrade. Generally speaking I don't believe that a lot of custom work is necessary on a G35. Out of the chute they run pretty nicely. Your personal preferences will dictate the upgrades.

+1 on what Rocket35 said. G35 is a nice Limited platform that won't break the bank account. Plenty of used G35's in gret shape. That's the route I went.