rwmagnus

Wouldn't it be better to let your vision and target dictate the speed of the shot? There are times where .30 is fast and times where it's slow. I'm not sold cadence shooting is the thing to practice. Everybody has a comfort zone on splits and transitions, in practice pushing those limits will improve your comfort zone. I'm not saying the metronome doesn't have merit, but I believe targets shouldto be shot should be shot as quickly and accurately as possible not just in a cadence.

Conqueror Nicely done. Can you add the verbal commands... Shooter Ready, Stand By, Timer Beep. I'd love to see a plate rack of targets, then also a plate rack set with a par time! Thank you for the videos.

Check this out http://www.doublealpha.biz/tip_burkett.htm...0fitness%20plan Should be all you need for Matt's 10 week plan.

Take that drill one step further. Tape a piece of paper on the wall with an aiming in dot drawn on it (I like to have a piece of cardboard behind the paper). Then do the wall drill with a #2 sharpened pencil placed in the barrel backed up to the firing pin. I'll state the obvious have an eraser on the pencil for the firing pin to contact and the sharpened end of the pencil sticking out the barrel, lol. The objective is to fire five shots and have only one impact dot on the paper. The drill works on sight alignment, trigger control, stance and just about every other shooting fundamental.

dannepang Did you try the N350 powder yet? What barrel length did you test and was it ported? Also since your loading long to avoid pressure wouldn't you do better with the Long Colt case? some IRC guys said the had very good results with the Short Colt case and 170gr LRN bullets from Bear Creek using a slow powder I think in the burn range of Universal Clays. I sent an email to a friend who has the details.

Sascha you have a nice website. Questions for you ... 1. What grips are on your 627? 2. Was it difficult to drill through the hammer to lighten it and why not bob the hammer? 3. How much weight was removed by drilling it? I'd like to hear more about those 200gr bullets and load data for 38 special. I tried to sign in on your Guestbook but it wasn't working.

Hogue is making one that I like a lot.

I spoke with a shooter at the IRC that uses one and he seemed to like it quite a bit. I believe it was a Randy Lee done 627. It may not be quite as durable as the C-More.

Is it worth the effort? BTW it looks awesome. My guess is you milled down a standard mount like described above.

Thanks Ralph. #1 has the only Randy hammer I ever bought. I use a similar profile but I use Dremel for the rough work and a 1.5" belt sander for shape and finish when I do my own. I think the Randy hammer is up to about $150 now which is more than I am willing to pay. Thanks to all. I think I will look at the Burris sight. Gary Post a pic when you get done with it. I've thought about doing the same to my hammer but like I said working on revolvers or for that matter any pistol is like searching for the Holy Grail. There comes a point where you just have to go and shoot. Found a pic you might like to see.

Gary the Weigand mount will work fine. I set mine up that way thinking it would be as close to my STI Open gun as possible. Not exactly true as it sits igher over the bore but close enough. Seems I have to avoid the tinkering mode with revolvers. It works well enough. Sorry I thought it was a V-Comp in your earlier post which now makes more sense why you inquired about porting. Same answer applies I don't notice much difference at 130PF. Looks like you did a nice hammer job on gun #1. Was it the dremel technique?

Gary congratulations on the 627. I have a C-More on my 627 V Comp with a Weigand mount. Getting it lower to the bore would be nice. I use Starline brass and Ranch moonclips but also have Herthco clips. I played around with short colts but ultimately stayed with the 38 special. I use 4.2gr of Clays with a 158gr RN jacketed bullet for a 129PF. Needless to say there is plenty of info on the boards on trigger jobs and springs but that's something you'll want to do. It's pretty easy to get it in the 6lb range. I also use a CR Speed rig. As for porting like others said it doesn't matter much. ******************************* DougCarden can you elaborate on the C-Moore modification and or post a pic? Are you saying the scope can be mounted directly to the frame? Is this the setup you're using now? I've got an extra Slide Ride C-Moore as a back up to my 2011 Open gun would that work? I'll see ya at the IRC. Ralph

Starts late Sunday morning and is done around lunch time. Anyone can sign up. Cash paybacks depend on participation. While this is going on the scoring is completed for the match, the period to contest the results is started and lunch is started up at the main house. Sometimes vendors will have special demonstrations at this time as well.

I'm game. Saturday night would be best. For that matter with the traffic like it is leaving late Sunday, Sunday night dinner might be good also and let the traffice die down lol. I'll be with 4 other BE members just pick a day, time and place.

My 22 revolver is a 6" Pre K-22 in blue finish and it is very accurate, same vintage as my Model 25. It can run side by side with my High Standard Victor target pistol. It's not to be sensitive about ammo or cleanliness. I don't know if a previous owner cleaned up the trigger but it's smooth and crisp. I've never had a stock S&W trigger worth a damn but they are easy to clean up and work on. I'd highly recommend a Pre K-22 or K22 for a six shot 22 revolver.

ChuckS...."IT'S FULL" ...... too funny! Come on you know there are 3 or 4 slots left.

+3 on IonBond. It's an amazing finish. Second choice would be goos ole fashion blue steel, which leaves plenty of options open down the road.

I guess it depends on what you're using it for. I shot our 4" 617 in the rimfire match at the Steel Challenge three years ago, and it worked just fine. Jason Pettit finished very high in that event with a 617 the same year, as I recall. Although I must admit, if I were to shoot that same match again, I would use my High Standard Victor with the Morini grips and smoke everybody's ass..... I'd like to see those grips any chance you can post a pic? The HS Victor I have has to be the sweetest trigger of all the guns I own. I've thought of getting a 617 10 shot to compliment my K-22 6" that is very adictive. Seems like every time I get serious about a 617 something else goes in the collection ahead of it. If component prices keep going up I'm going to start doing more .22 practice!

Interesting topic as I was given a two part tip this weekend. First was more grip pressure with the weak hand. It lead to better recoil management and faster splits. It's so nice when the dot stays in the lens during recoil. Second was getting a higher weak grip with the index finger in front of the trigger guard positioned in the second joint. I seem to get a lot more leverage on the grip this way. I need to practice both to get more comfortable with it but it looks to have merit. Steve Anderson any comment on this grip position?

Who makes those grips? They look sweet, nice overall looking pistola ya got there.

Where did you order it? RWM

That's an interesting video. I'd be interested in a supplier as well

Yep that's the route I'd suggest a 9mm Open Gun. Change the springs for lighter PF and you're good to go. Many will shoot factory 9mm just fine. Loading to Major isn't a challenge and there are a lot of bullet and powder combos that can get the job done. Obviously there are more choices in 38S or 38SC. Keep checking the Classifieds here as really nice guns come up all the time. Try to shoot other competitors Open guns many are very generous to let others try their guns after a match. This way you'll start to get a feel what you might like.

In addition to what psky2 suggests (make sure the ejector rod isn't bent) also consider removing 2-4 coils on the cylinder release latch spring. It will take some pressure off the cylinder which makes opening it up easier and also allows the cylinder to rotate more freely with less drag. As far as latches go I prefer the stock one. I swithched over to a weak hand reload technique last year but have used the strong hand style for a few years prior to that. The stock button is about the perfect size. Good luck.

I run a 9# for Major and a 7# for minor. Thanks for the spring info. What weight bullet do you use for major and will you share your load data? I'm down to my last couple pounds of HS6 and may try Vit.