bountyhunter

The problem is that valtros may not be in manufacture any more, but other guns which are equal or superior to them are (like Wilsons). So, it's not a supply and demand thing because there are alternatives. It's a "rape people in kali because they can't import guns" thing for anybody holding a legally acquired gun in the state. I realize there will be a surcharge, but DOUBLE the price (tacking on about $2000 extra) is ridiculous and judging by how long the posting has been up on that paricular piece, I'd say everybody else agrees. OK, so then buy a Wilson and stop pissing and moaning about the price of Valtros. Based on build quality, materials, and exemplary support from John, myself and many others feel that Wilson offers nothing comparable to the box stock Valtro and the lack of supply of used Valtros supports that. There are plenty of Baers and Wilsons on the used market in Cali. A nice stock Valtro sold at Bullseye a few months ago for $2800, regardless of whether you like it or not, that IS the going price. I take it you are not fluent in the English language or just choose to ignore the rules? The point of this thread was to marvel at the fact people seem to think that they are worth twice their original price.... at least, that some people think that. I can provide the link to the site offering the $3500 bargain if you think that's a good price. http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=61472 As I said above, I think the valtro is a good gun, I just don't think it is double price good. A nice stock Valtro sold at Bullseye a few months ago for $2800, regardless of whether you like it or not, that IS the going price. But, your contention that valtros are worth $3k raises an interesting question: the original builder thought they were a vaible product at a price point of about $1500. If the "free market" price point is actually twice that..... wouldn't it make sense to start selling them again?

I don't see that on mine. As I walk up the trigger face nearer to the pivot point, the force increases a lot. The law of leverage still applies to a pivoting lever.

It makes a HUGE difference on a pivoting trigger like the Glock's (unlike the 1911) because the pivot point forms a lever and the force required is liner as you go up and down the face of the trigger. For example, my G35 with the Sotelo trigger is about 1.8# down near the end of the trigger but more like 2.5# a little ways up where the finger would normally engage it.hence my asking where everybody measures theirs....

The problem is that valtros may not be in manufacture any more, but other guns which are equal or superior to them are (like Wilsons). So, it's not a supply and demand thing because there are alternatives. It's a "rape people in kali because they can't import guns" thing for anybody holding a legally acquired gun in the state. I realize there will be a surcharge, but DOUBLE the price (tacking on about $2000 extra) is ridiculous and judging by how long the posting has been up on that paricular piece, I'd say everybody else agrees.

He did say it was for an 11 year old.......

That's exactly what I remember. I shot a valtro here and it is a VERY nice gun..... but it ain't $3500 worth of nice. This california gouging is ridiculous. I saw a guy selling an S_I something or other and I was interested. I go to dawson and find that gun is still available new for about $1600. The guy selling one here was asking $1800 for a used gun admitting to 5k rounds fired in competition... God only knows what the power factor was or how much abuse it actually got. Anyway, paying $200 over new list seemed a bit steep for a used gun and I passed. So did everybody else as I recall. But DOUBLE price on valtro just seemed ridiculous....

I saw somebody offering a Valtro for sale (no mods, stock new gun) for $3500. Have I lost my mind or my memory? As I recall, that is more than DOUBLE above what that gun ever sold for new? Wow.... they say living in kali is expensive, but some people think they work for the oil company.

With all the talk about trigger pulls, where on the face of the trigger do you engage the hook of the trigger pull gauge? I put it about 60% of the way down toward the tip. Obviously, putting it closer to the tip makes the reading lower.

There are two shock impulses which make up the recoil in an auto (only one in a revolver). In an auto, there is a pulse at firing and one when the slide bangs into the frame. In most autos, the first impulse is higher, here's why: The slide is amoving mass which acts as a recoil "absorber" because energy is expended to make it move, and energy is stored in the recoil spring. In other words, the more easily the slide can unlock and move rearward, the lower that first shock impulse is. In most stock guns, the hammer spring and slide mass that it must overcome to get moving is large enough that the first recoil impulse will be larger than the one when the slide hits the frame. In most cases a lighter hammer/recoil spring makes recoil feel lighter, since it is reducing the first peak (which is usually higher) by letting the slide get moving with less applied force. However, if the recoil spring is too light (and the slide is really banging into the frame) the second peak may dominate and lighter recoil spring makes it feel worse. Comp shooters select springs to try to balance out the peaks which results in the gun shooting flatter (less muzzle rise). A shok-buf probably won't do much, bit one of those variable rate "recoil absorber" guid rod/spring assemblies might if your slide/frame impact is dominating the recoil feel. https://www.efkfiredragon.com/products.php?cat=7

Not lately, but the UPS guy did park his truck on a box with a computer in it for me.... and UPS is still refusing to admit liability.

My moron mail carrier didn't realize express mail deliveries can be tracked on the net. I was watching for one and it showed as "delivered" but I never got it. I called the post office and raised hell with the supervisor and he claimed it was impossible.... it must have been delivered. later that night about 8PM, I hear the rattle of the mailbox. I open the front door and I see the mailman running like carl lewis to get back to his truck and drive away. I called the supervisor at the station and he still claimed I was lying, that it had been delivered when it was supposed to be, and I must have "not seen" it in the mailbox. The dipstick carrier was just scanning them in as delivered and then letting them pile up until he got around to actually delivering them.

I have a box of drill bits and choose one that has the right diameter (use the smooth shank end) and wrap the paper around that. I use cleaning patches dipped in chrome polish to do the fianl shine (just for looks).

I was going to say, you might try the mag release that STI uses. many have complained it holds the mags too high. I had to file the notches on my mags for my STI because they rode too high.

I have used the Firedragon version of that thing in a number of guns (Glock 35, SIG 226, Beretta 92) because they absolutely keep the slide from contacting the frame. I don't see or feel any difference in felt recoil or muzzle rise, but I have a pretty strong grip. BTW: the Sprinco unit did not work in my BER 92 (kept failing to return to battery) whiich is why I use the firedragon versions. EFK also costs less: https://www.efkfiredragon.com/products.php?cat=7

I quit going to 7-11's because I always find some canadian coins in whatever change I get there.

You and the guy in the other thread about his mags riding too low need to swap magazines. On the upside, if all you have is the mags riding too high, you can file the upper edge of the locking slot in the mag sheel and it will lower the magazine.

Yes, it's also possible to lock them in too high which causes other problems. What caliber and type of 1911?

The "not going into battery" photo looks to me like the round is ahead of the extractor hook, as iff it fed up wrong. I would try some factory 180 gr .40 standard ammo and see if the gun feeds. If it is only misfeeding on that shape bullet, you could try cutting the feed ramp until it does...... using the stock barrel as the guide. It's possible you just need to "roll over" the top of the feed ramp where it enters the chamber. I had to do that on a para to get it to stop doing exactly what yours is doing. You give away a bit of "coverage" on the case to get it to feed.

Us victims in kali have heard rumors that a ten round double stack .40 mag will hold 15 rounds of 9mm, if you adjust the feed lip spacing down to .350" Hypothetically, I mean. Actually doing that would be wrong.....

After seeing the video, I want to put my money on the parole violating her...

They pay you the insured value Absolutely NOT. If we could legally buy through the mail from out-of-state private parties.... we would be doing it. Such PPT sales must be face-to-face at a kali FFL buying a gun which is already legally in the state.

She is just too beautiful to go to jail. I heard the emotional distress was cause when she found out she would have to wear underwear in jail....

Browning HP barrels used to be supplied "in the white" with no finish. Polishing usually makes the steel more rust resistant because water tends to bead up more.

I changed the rebound slide springs as you suggested. The results were that the trigger dosen't hang up no ways near as it use to. Now the trigger makes a prominate snapping sound when it resets with the cylinder stop and the sear. My guess is that the trigger and or sear hasn't been stoned properly to fit with the piece. SW triggers and hammers are surface hardened. STONED = DESTROYED The loud click may be normal.

The guy at the source store e-mailed me to say that the dispute is in process.