bountyhunter

Thanks

I need to add the two holes in the top strap on one of my old style K-frames to mount a regular scope mount (which uses the three holes on the new model K frames). Anybody know: What thread and size are the holes supposed to be? What drill size to drill the top strap before tapping? Thanks

Would like advice if there is help on this: For my first open gun (about ten years ago) I bought an Ultra Dot 25 mm red dot. It was and is perfect to this day. I still use it. A couple of years after, I wanted to do another open gun so I ordered another Ultra Dot 25 from natchez: that's when the problems arose. The second UD has a "prismatic" shift of the image. This is not a BLURRING of the image viewed through the tube, but a shift in position. With the left eye squinted shut, the image looks OK..... but, I don't shoot that way with a red dor. I always have to shoot with both eyes open and focused on the target with a tube sighter. If I look at the black bullseye with my eyes, raise the UD in line to sight the dot, the image of the bullseye shifts as the tube goes in front of my eye. Hence, I see double bullseye images with one slightly shifted from the true position. I experimented: as I slowly rotate the UD, the shifted image's position moves through a small circle moving with respect to the true image position. But, it never is in the correct position. ALSO: If I slowly move the bullseye's position in the viewing field (seen through the UD) upwards and downwards, I notice the shift is much worse at the lower part of the field of view, and gets almost "true" near the top of the tube. I sent this scope back to natchez, and they sent me another: which was worse. So, I sent it back for a refund as was (at that point) out the cost of two shippings and had no scope. Ultra Dot has a direct distributor, so I went to them and personally called the guy in charge and explained. I asked if he would do a check on one for me if I ordered one. So, I ordered one and got another distorted scope. At this point, I needed it and figured I could get used to it..... so I kept it. I never got used to it, it still bugged me and made me dizzy, so I threw it in the closet. I bought a Tasco proPoint and it was (still is) perfect. I also later bought an OKO sighter and a couple of BSA sighters which don't show this problem. BTW: I also called the guy at the Ultra Dot service center, explained the problem, and returned it for repair: and he sent me back the sighter with the same problem. My theory is that the lenses are not true and are bending the light like a prism does. For the record: in my series of returns and all, I did see varying degrees of the effect in the UD's. None were good enough for me to use. Question: anybody else who sights with both eyes having this problem with tube sighters? Is ther any "FIX" I can do, or is this $150 thing going to reside in my closet forever? Can't the idiots who make these things test them? EDIT TO ADD: I do wear glasses, but my correcetd vision is about 20-10 (perfect). And, I have seen the distortion unchanged over the years through at least four different pairs of glasses, so it's not that. It's the scope.

Saying that 45 is "old" is just plain cruel.... I've got a set of jeweler's files I use for gunsmithing that are older than that.

Just remember what an expert is. An EX is a has been and a Spurt is something that comes in the night. Your reference that blue LocTite doesn't loosen if properly applied doesn't always hold true, my strain screw still backed out. It might shooting magnums. I only shoot .38 load. I have seen the SW rental guns strain screws back out even after being cranked all the way down (no loctite). I would not be surprise if magnum loads could break them loose eventually.

Thanks

After the great results I got from dropping the Sotelo trigger into my Glock, I was hoping there would be something similar for the Springfield XD available? I like the XD and have the itch to buy another gun.... but I shot one and the trigger was awful. If there was a good kit available I would probably take the plunge.

To put it in perspective: the old "weak" locking blocks performed well enough that the M9 qual units averaged over 30,000 rounds fired before major failure (unrepairable in the field). The old lugs can fail..... mine probably has >20k rounds on it, no cracks. If you are worried, pitch it and get one of the new "stronger" ones which are less prone to crack. I thought the field data on them showed they lasted longer?

I agree with you completely. I deal with pacific Rim countries a lot, and the Japanese level of supreme arrogance is beyond comparison. I'd like to save the whales and fish, but considering what is happening to the climate in general...... it isn't going to matter.

It will. I have many times. Yes, until it gets melted by solvent or gun cleaner. "removeable" is a word, and you are correct regardless of which word you choose. I also bend the mainspring, but I leave a little "extra" and back the strain screw out a touch to dial in. That way, if I get a misfire from squirrely ammo, I can turn the screw in for a little more pop.

I have two HP's: a beautiful hard chrome 9mm with adjustable sights..... that won't group worth a crap. It also throws random flyers, usually about one or two per ten rounds. I have shot it from bag rest (17 yards) and seen a group of five shots in a nice one inch cluster... and two others prctically shoot throughs about two inches away from the main group. I used to fancy myself a gunsmith, but I gave up on that gun. If a master fitted a new barrel, it would probably fix it. I bought a frankenstein HP GP Comp built up from various sources... and it's accuracy is quite good. It is very easy to shoot. My gripe about HP's is mainly the trigger: to get a light trigger with clean break, you have to really cut the sear angles close to hammer follow. And a little wear on the sear will cause it to occur eventually. I think HP's require trigger work on a regular basis if you want a light trigger. I agree the gun is very snappy, even in 9mm. I also don't like the short trigger reach and blocky grip (which is about 3/4" shorter in length than a 1911 grip). A HP is a good semi-compact gun for carry because the short grip makes it easy to conceal, and it carries the full capacity (13 +1) of 9mm.

That extra sunlight turns my lawn brown. I have to water twice as often to keep it green. I wish the appropriate people would get together, get drunk, and decide where they want the clocks set..... AND THEN LEAVE IT THE HELL ALONE.

Remineds me of when they first brought out cable TV: "So.... you'll pay us money and we will let you watch TV." "OK.... so we won't have to listent to commercials?" "Actually, you will be getting MORE commercials." "But, the shows will be WAYY better.....?" "Some will be better, most will be crap and the VAST majority will be re-running really old junk shows that weren't any good even when they were new.... And, the bonus is, a "30 minute show" from the 70's will now take 40 minutes to watch because we are cramming in so many extra commercials." "SOUNDS GREAT! Where do I sign?"

And you can tell the boss off anytime he acts like a bozo.

Speaking as a 50+ year old folk it wasn't too bad, and hopefully won't be too bad the next time (now that they've changed the rules on how often we can go). Well, I am a 50+ dinosaur and so screwed up that I can't even imagine going out again. You must have gotten a better body than the one they issued me. I hope you don't have to go back. Everytime I hear something like this, it makes me think twice about going IRR when I get out next year. How did you get non deployable status? In reality, I don't think that it's possible to be absolutely non-deployable. If they need you, you can be recalled.

Be careful if you're closing out. My wife was CO of a reserve unit, and everybody who filed for retirement in it was being activated and shipped out to Iraq (her unit was navy medical). The attitude is that before they let them get out and start drawing retirement, they want to get a few more years of active duty out of them. It was apparrent that the "retirement" papers were the flag that was triggering automatioc activation. My wife and many others at retirement age simply went on inactive status for now to avoid that. No loss in $$, since she isn't eligible for any retirement pay for several more years. Be careful. A whole lot of 50+ year old folks are still in shock from being shipped out. Old and wobbly doesn't seem to be a legitimate excuse any more.

All mechanical valves carry a significant risk of growing clots which can breal loose and travel. I would also advise asking about the porcine (pig) valve as it is very widely used and (I have read) doesn't tend to clot as much as a mechanical valve.

If only it was here in kali, I'd buy it in a second.

It never ceases to astonish me how far a part can go.

64 is the stainless version of the 10 Like the 65 is a stainless version of the 13. Anybody got a 3" 13 they want to sell me??? Anybody got a 3" ANYTHING they want to sell?

We'll have sears, sear spring and trigger return springs VERY soon... If they sell, we'll tackle more parts. Sounds good, but I have spent too many hours on my hands and knees with a flashlight in my mouthing combing the shag rug for a tiny part to ever buy a gun where I can't buy ALL the small pieces.....

That's what I was thinking. I shoot a 6" .40SW STI Trojan with 180-grain factory load, and that dreaded "snappy recoil .40" feels like a wimp in that long gun.

I would think the speedloader for sure, holster probably.

Electric heat is very expensive for the amount of heat you get. gas is much better. Space heaters in general usually give poor heat for $$$ performance. Don't know about propane or kerosene.

I also have Internet Explorer..... that's the "officially approved" browser that gets monitored by the company spyware (and can't visit sites like this) Netscape is the one that is one the "free" side of the firewall..... hence, may have been able to be bitten. Anyway, I got Netscape working finally by completely scrubbing and reloading.