bountyhunter

Well.... here's something you can tell them: The old "fixed extractor" works OK as long as it's tuned and set up just right. HOWEVER: It really sucks in guns where you try to drop in a so-called "9mm conversion barrel" into a .40 slide (Barsto makes lot os them). 1) I dropped on into a Glock 35 = no prolblemo (pivoting external extractor) 2) Dropped one into a SIG 226R .40 = no problemo (pivoting external extractor) 3) dropped one into a XD Tactical .40 (fixed internal extractor) = won't extract 9mm worth crap. The fixed extractor can't "pivot over" and make up the smaller diameter rim's distance, so you are extracting with virtually zero extractor tension. I should have looked closer at the XD design before I bought that conversion barrel..... And if you (like I) figure you could fix this by shaving an extractor to fit the new barrel? Springfiled will not sell or furnish extractors for any amount of gold or begging..... So, I am not such a big fan of JMB's clever internal extractor these days. And even less of a fan of Springfield's lawyer management policies.

UPDATE: UPS picked up the package...a nd they inspected it. They declared that it was improperly packed, so they were not liable. They further claim the UPS store that packed it is an "independent contractor" so UPS (the company) is not liable. I called the guy there at the store where it was packed, and he is disputing this with UPS. he actually seems like a nice guy and told me this has happened many times. I told him that the box had damage on two corners, and no amount of packing material would likely have saved the computer. So, the customer policy of UPS is: 1) Deny all responsibility, blame the sender (even if it is an authorized UPS outlet). 2) Put the customer in the middle of a pissing contest over who will accept blame between UPS and their outlet. 3) Send the clear message that they think saving $100 is more important than doing what's right. After all this plays out, I will be contacting the Attorney General here in kali. They take a dim view of such fraudulent business practices. About 10 years back, the local K-Mart store tried to screw my wife out of about $28 that they charged her to put an inner tube into a defective (brand new) tire with a rim leak she bought there which kept going flat and stranding her. I ended up getting an apology letter from the head of K-Mart in northern California along with a full refund. That particular store closed not so long after that... maybe a coincidence?

I live in kalifornia. If I called the cops every time I saw an idiot driver, my phone bill would be a million dollars a month.... Sorry about the kid. In our area, the majority of fatality-crashes have a drunk driver involved (not speed/reckless driving. Our cops are always cracking down to get the DUI's off the road.

Or, maybe it's because nobody ever passes anybody and the races are all won and lost in the pit times.

No rain tires at Indy. They do in Formula 1 and the LeMans series cars.

That sounds like normal wear where the end of the yoke tube cuts a groove into the mating surface inside the cylinder. I don't know why, but the end of the yoke tube seems to be a lot harder (and sharper) and cuts a groove into the cylinder seat. Before you install a shim, you have to flatten off the inside surface of the cylinder the washer runs against. The reason is that the outside diameter of the washer matches the outside diameter of the yoke tube, but the washer extends farther in towards the center. The washer will not drop into the groove cut by the end of the crane tube.... and that makes the washer get 'concaved" at the end when it tries to force it into the groove in the cylinder. I made a tool using the shank end of a drill bit with 80# sandpaper attached to smooth the inner surface. As long as the inside face is flat and smooth, the washers will work perfectly.

I sure would have liked to see the last 40 or so laps of the Indy 500 that got rained out. I have never seen such a crop of evenly matched cars (lead changed umpteen times). danica even had a good shot. That drag race to the end would have been a real gas to watch.

That is amazing: their business model is: Our employees are a bunch of thieves, so we will charge you 5X as much to get your package out of their hands faster. I don't know how they can say it with out blushing....

I didn't send it, I received so I was not the one who would have bought insurance. The bizarre thing is the buyer contacted me before shipping and said UPS had warned him to let them pack it because they were the "professionals" so I sent extra money to cover the $75 for the shipping so they would pack it..... thinking that would give better results. I don't know what amount (if any) of insurance was purchased by the sender, but it's an old computer, so it' market value is only about $200. I found another one for about $185, and I plan to prsent UPS with the bill I have paid to get that one and they had better pay..... It's just infuriating to have UPS scalp me for their "professionsl" packing and get such a crappy job. They wrapped two layers of bubble wrap around it and then dumped it in a big box with loose packing peanuts. It obviously shifted toward one side and then took a nasty blow which shattered the case and mangled the chassis. Any idiot could have seen that packing job sucked. Standard with no insure per package is $100, Meaning there is already $100 on it and then it costs $1 per hundred. Unless you signed a slip that says it's okay to leave it on the stoop, they aren't supposed to do that. Mine does it with permission, but some do it so they don't have to retry. I may have signed something to OK leaving deliveries on the porch. I have never had anything stolen. I actually instruct them to put "leave package on porch" in the delivery text so they will know to do that. They do it unless there is a signature required by sender. My gripe here was that they destroyed the package.... the delivery was timely and efficient.

I'll get my money's worth out of them one way or another. The easy way is if they give me a fair settlement and pay for the damage they did. The other way will involve me contacting the state attorney general, local DA fraud unit, and giving UPS about 40 years worth of badmouthing on every forum I affiliate with. Their choice.

I don't think so. He did leave it on the porch, but I got home a couple of hours later and called UPS immediately. They know it was their fault. I can't believe they are going to try to weasel out of this, but you never know. It's not a huge dollar amount, but their absolute arrogance of bullying the guy into paying extra for their packing.... and then doing a terrible job is what burns me up.

I didn't send it, I received so I was not the one who would have bought insurance. The bizarre thing is the buyer contacted me before shipping and said UPS had warned him to let them pack it because they were the "professionals" so I sent extra money to cover the $75 for the shipping so they would pack it..... thinking that would give better results. I don't know what amount (if any) of insurance was purchased by the sender, but it's an old computer, so it' market value is only about $200. I found another one for about $185, and I plan to prsent UPS with the bill I have paid to get that one and they had better pay..... It's just infuriating to have UPS scalp me for their "professionsl" packing and get such a crappy job. They wrapped two layers of bubble wrap around it and then dumped it in a big box with loose packing peanuts. It obviously shifted toward one side and then took a nasty blow which shattered the case and mangled the chassis. Any idiot could have seen that packing job sucked.

My high school buddy's favorite insult was to call somebody a baby gorilla..... because the standard baby gorilla has only two modes: They either destroy something or, failing that, simply poop on it. The UPS gorillas did the former to my shipment. I am the last of the buffalo here where I work that still uses a Mac and I run old software (Canvas 5.0.1 for example) and I have a ton of files in old formats I use to create new graphics and documents that convert directly to TIF and go into PC documents. So, my reliable Power Mac 8500 was my main tool. It started to sputter (and fail to turn on) and I went searching for a similar unit. I found one online (back east) and ordered it. To be ultra safe, I had him let UPS pack it...... it arrived with the box bashed on two corners. When I picked it up I could hear loose metal debris shifting around inside. The poor computer had been hit so hard on the front left corner that the plastic case was shattered and the metal chassis was damaged and bent. It looked like they backed a truck into it. That "fragile" sticker on the box must translate into some other meaning in Gorilla-speak. Luckily, I have found another place with refurbished old Macs (for 3X what I paid for the other one). I plan to demand that UPS pay for the full replacement cost since it's their fault I had to buy another one. We'll see how that goes.

make sure your striker isn't dinging the FP safety plunger when it fires (I have the Sotelo trigger and it was doing that). This will cause marginal misfires. If you see dings on the nose of the striker, that's the problem. You can reshape the curve on the trigger bar where it engages the disconnector to get it to drop the striker a shade farther rearward and get the FP plunger out of the way.

Definitely not. I'm not convinced ports do much of anything.

Never tried grooving a trigger with the tool. I have always felt the best things in life are very smooth and nicely rounded. Me too. I bought a model 14 target masterpiece with the deeply grooved trigger and the grooves bugged the hell out of me. I wore out four new files trying to smooth them down and barely took the glaze off them. I guess they were on extra caffeine the day the surface hardened that trigger.

Sell it. I have a Browning HP that throws flyers just like you describe. I am a better than average gun fixer and have never been able to fix it. I have a second HP that is dead accurate. I think maybe somebody could get your SA to shoot, but why pour money into a gun that's maybe worth $400 if you do all that? I have an STI Trojan 9mm that is dead accurate with any ammo. Not sure where the myth of the "9mm won't shoot straight" got started, but it is BS. 1911's are NOT created equal. The good ones like STI are fitted together, the junk guns like SA are thrown together. You can not turn a pig into Angelina Jolie no matter how much lipstick you put on.

In kali, we used to have a law that the CHP could only issue radar tickets for at least "ten mph over". They can clock you below that, but radar was limited to +10. The city cops could use radar all they wanted, but were required to post a "speed survey" where they monitored the traffic speed and adjusted the speed limit so that some large percentage (like 80% or more?) was in compliance. They geta round that as follows: they set up a radar truck with speed readout to take the survey data.... and it has a six foot high symbol of the police department displayed alongside a sign that says: SPEED LIMIT: XX YOUR SPEED: XX Amazing how thiose surveys show the original spped limit is always "right"..... Out here they mail people tickets. One guy mailed the cops back a photo of a hundred dollar bill to cover the fine.... the cops mailed him back a photo of a pair of handcuffs. Seriously. I guess we are becoming more civilized as a nation: John Wesley harding (an outlaw in the old west) shot a guy dead because he was snoring. I'll bet it got really quiet after that....

Because when they shoot some guy half a mile ahead of you, that beam, even if its only on for an instant, will bounce off that guys car, and the cars and buildings around him casting microwave reflections all over the neighborhood. The V1 will pretty easily pick these reflections up and alert you to the fact that some things up. If you're out on the open road all by your lonesome and the cop is running instant on you're hosed. But if there's other people around he's interested in you stand an excellent chance of picking him up long long before he can see you. You guys are lucky. Out here if there is a pack of cars going relatively the same speed and the radar one of them, they just pull the herd over and write them all up for the same speed. been there, got that ticket, King City 50 miles south of Monterey. You could not hit the grill of a car driving pretty much straight at you with a rifle from 300 yds? Slight exageration perhaps, but I was trying to make a point. Looking across my parking lot, I seems the average grill size is about 1 1/2 to 2 ft wide and maybe 6 to 8 inches tall. Thats way smaller than the average whitetail and they make a pretty small target at 300 yds. I am a mechanical engineer and often use a hand held laser meter to measure distances in factories. Its harder than you think to hold a laser steady enough to take a reading off of something the size of a clipboard at much more than about 100 feet. 900 ft.? ..... I won't say it can't be done, but its a pretty good trick. Tony You're going on the assumption that either the cop or the judge actually cares whether the beam hit your grille or somebody else's. The check cashes the same either way....

Five extra points if you got that all typed without cracking up..... Kathy, Do the LEOs in your area use Laser? If so, nothing will help. I learned the hard way last week. Our City PD just converted to Laser (a very advanced one). The officer got me and I never got a peep out of the radar detector. He told me that the laser is emitting a beam that is 8 inches wide at 300yds. He aimed at the grill of the vehicle and the signal never came near the detector. He told me he had pulled people with all kinds of detectors and they never had a chance. Bummer. I just learned that our Highway Patrol will be getting them soon, too. Take care. Exactly. Detectors only work when the radar is "always ON" kind, but today most cops use a radar gun similar to a Juggs speeed gun. Point and click and the speed appears in the display. The radr is only on to clock you, the detector (even if it does go off) will only be announcing the fact you just got nailed. BTW: they use red-dot sighters (same kind we do) to aim the guns so that they can pick a single car out of a pack. Oh, um, 20 over?!?! Too skeered for that. I keep it at 15 over cause I think I heard somewhere *they* are less likely to add on/trump up the ticket. Yep, if you go too fast they can add reckless driving, endangering the public, etc.... Neither of the models I'm considering are cheap. They are both the absolute top of the line. They both CLAIM to function the same. I was hoping someone here could explain to me the $150 difference. My gut feeling is that the Valentine is overpriced for no good reason! My question is why people buy radar detectors at all since all the PD I know of switched over to the "instant ON" kind a long time ago. If you do get a hit on your detector, it would be a stroke of blind luck.

It makes money for them. Ummmm... cause you'd be giving the guys who screwed it up the first time a chance to screw it up even more? Since I don't know how to measure .000" I have never tried to set one to that value. The .000" spec is probably a bigger problem than material type. You could probably have an "interference fit" and still spin the cylinder on a cold gun because of crane flex. After a while, you can tell by the feel if there is no clearance or clearing by spring loading flex into the crane. If it's just snug, it could bind when it gets hot. It can also bind when hard carbon gets under the star face from knocking out the empty brass, and that carbon builds up. Only takes a little there.... The Ti binding issue I referred to was seen on some new guns that got hot and started to get tight. I assume that the end shake spec for a Ti would require a little more space.

I wonder if you could find anybody who has NOT done this.... You get the need to "over control" the trigger which puts tension in the trigger finger and control muscles. By tension, I mean muscles tensed while they are actually doing nothing except waiting for their turn to act. The key for me was to completely relax the trigger finger after the shot, then apply a light pressure to the trigger (just enough to take up and set it) and then break the trigger when the sights align. When you feel that finger tensing up, you're screwed.

They could surface harden them to a thickness of about .008" the same way they do the triggers and hammers. That would significantly reduce the peening effect at a slightly increased propensity to crack (more brittle). The Ti cylinder weighs 60% of the SS version so there is less mass to stop (and start). I destroyed one SS cylinder and a handful of stops in my first two years of shooting revolver in USPSA. The SS cylinder S&W put in for me "bound up" because they apparently didn't gap the cylinder correctly and did not set the end shake. My experience is that no cylinder will bind up (hot or cold) if gapped and spaced correctly to the gun. I agree. If set up correctly, it won't bind.... but some of the new guns with Ti cylinders did bind up because of expansion. The end shake spec is basically ZERO to .001", so they can be set up snug fit.... and that could bind when hot. If enough end shake is present, it will not.

Here's one: the Kuhnhausen manual shows that the little "raised up ledge" can be forced back down. SW factory is just too lazy to do it when they would rather sell you a new cylinder. If they are going to throw that cylinder away anyhow, you could try "down peening" the raised meatl with a flat faced punch and hammer. As the raised material is forced back down, the notch will narrow some.... probably not to where it was because some of the steel has been compressed by the edge peening of the cylinder stop bolt. I also agree that if skipping is the problem, you can fix it by smoothing the lead in ramp edge. A titanium cylinder might peen less because of increased hardness, but Ti has other problems like scratching and tempco. The different expansion rates of steel and Ti cause some revolvers to bind when they get hot.

The followers in 9mm versus .45 mags are slightly different. The length that the little "foot" on the stop reaches in to engage the magazine follower to lock back are different. Because the 45 round is larger, the slide stop foot has to be smaller to prevent interference. It is possible to get a .40/.45 slide stop to work with 9mm mags. I do because my Trojan has both a 9mm top end and a .40 top end and I use the same (.40/.45) slide stop for both. BTW: A while back, I called STI and asked about "dropping in" and aftermarket slide stop and they said probably OK, might need fitting. I guess the fit on them is tight.