kalaur

MTG CMJ is shorter than JHP, so you can load shorter OALs with same internal case volume. CMJs are also a few bucks cheaper per case than JHPs, and you still get the advantages of 'no exposed lead' on the back of the bullet. Also for folks who tumble their loaded ammo, CMJ tends to work better as media sometimes gets stuck in the hollow point. 320 made major in my 5" STI (stock barrel) with 5.1gr @1.200 OAL with MTG 180 JHP, ~170 PF. However, I tend to use WST since its more available, MTG JHP 180, 5.1 WST, 1.200 OAL, SRP.

Just wait till you upgrade to a 1050, you'll feel this same way all over again. Downstroke seating of the primer FTW

These questions get asked multiple times a week. Searching would return hundreds of posts discussing loads. Anywho, I use MTG JHP @ 1.200 for a STI. Can't really say whether they are much cleaner than FMJ or not.

When you were checking for tension on the hammer strut, was your slide installed? Often the struts are short enough to where if your slide isn't installed, there won't be tension on the strut. Installing the slide limits the forward travel of the hammer, and there should be pressure on the hammer and strut with the slide installed.

Anytime I use the Lee FCD with lead or coated bullets, my barrels lead more quickly and accuracy seems to suffer. Maybe my 40 barrels are larger than most, I've never slugged them. I didn't really see any advantages of using the FCD even when using jacketed bullets, so I stopped using it.

For 40 S&W, I use a lee sizing die, with dillon seat/crimp dies. If you're loading lead or moly coated bullets skip the FCD, it will cause more headaches than its worth. Generally seating OAL differences can be narrowed down to shellplates not being tight enough on dillon presses.

I found 700X to be a bit too dirty for me, WST works great with lead/coated/jacketed/plated bullets in many pistol calibers. I use 4.9gr WST with 200gr LSWC bullets from Missouri, at 1.250 OAL

IMO, having any ammo related jams during a match is unacceptable, whether you're using mixed brass or all same headstamp. Unless you're REALLY good and everyone else is mediocre, having a single jam in a match is the difference between winning and being 5+ places down.

Since you're loading short for a XD, I'd recommend going to the MTG FMJ or CMJ instead of the JHP. The JHP bullet is quite a bit longer, so you'll have even less internal case volume (which is actually what affects pressures, not OAL). Loading the shorter FMJ or CMJ will let you still load short OAL, but have a bit more case volume to decrease pressures. I'm loading for a STI, and my 320 test loads were a MTG 180 JHP, 1.200 OAL, SRP primers, with 5.1gr 320. That was about 169PF IIRC

The only brass I won't use for matches is stuff that is cracked, wrinkled, or won't case gauge.

Generally the Lee die is a mix between rcbs/dillon and the egw U die, so its interesting you're still getting setback. You mentioned its 'similar' to the Frontier bullet, which brand is it specifically? Any chance you or a friend has a Micrometer (not a caliper) you can use to check bullet diameter?

Crimp is not ment to prevent bullet setback, crimp is only used to remove flare from the case mouth. If you're having issues with bullet setback with your particular bullets, you may want to look at an undersizing die, or try expanding your cases less (note: EXPANDING less, I don't mean FLARE less) You mentioned you're using Lee brand dies, but what brand bullet are you using? And how much bullet setback were you experiencing?

This is generally what happens, and is due to lead rounds being .001" larger in diameter. Often times the lead rounds won't just 'drop' in, but will go in with a slight push without getting stuck. Sometimes wiping the lube from the nose of the bullet allows them to drop right in. I've shot thousands of lead rounds from my STI in this fashion. Where you want to be careful, is if the freebore area is too tight, and causes lead rounds to stick, or if your lead loads really are too long and engaging in the rifling. If it really bugs you, have a gunsmith ream out this freebore area a little more.

Measure the difference between the two bullets. However much longer the JHP is, that's how much longer you need to load for the same case pressure. Danger zone of what? Most people who use 40 major in competitive shooting are loading much longer than SAMMI specs, to reduce pressures and sometimes enhance feeding. COAL of 1.180-1.220 are very common.

Because for the most part, you can't go to some gun store and buy an off the shelf open gun that *isnt* capable of shooting 9 major. The open guns are designed to shoot 9 major without issues, where there are many off the shelf guns that would work in limited that *can't* or shouldn't shoot 9 major. IMO, 9 major in limited would be a safety issue. One of the nice things about having 9 minor in limited is the fact that you get extra capacity, as well as less recoil. If 9 were allowed in limited as major, there would really not be any advantages to shooting minor at all. No one really shoots minor in open because it is not advantageous. So 9 Major isn't safe, but .38 super is sold commercially and off the shelf guns are sold to shoot this. So why not accept .38 super as major in Limited? To me, it all comes down to the arms race that will ensue as pointed out earlier in this thread. Most 38super ammo (even a lot of +p) off the shelf doesn't make major power factor

I've yet to see any issues, but I also end up breaking fibers every few weeks anyway (with or without using the ultrasonic).

It doesn't seem like that much of an upgrade, but once you've loaded on a 1050 you'll understand. I'm not that much faster reloading on the 1050 compared to my 650, but it requires less effort and my ammo is much more consistent. I bought a 650, and about 8 months later bought a 1050. I wish I had just purchased the 1050 right away. For me, I don't need to change calibers very often, so I can load a few thousand rounds for the calibers I shoot very little, then convert back to 40 and continue to crank out ammo. The cost of toolheads is indeed expensive for the 1050, however you can do exactly as you said, and re-use toolheads with locking rings that have setscrews on them (rcbs makes them) to save your settings. Let me tell you, one smooth pull instead of a pull/push is much nicer :-) To the OP - No, I won't talk you out of the 1050

What kind of press and dies are you using? Have any photos of cases that you're having issues with?

I shoot right handed, but am also left eye dominant. I simply use my left eye to shoot pistols. I try not to move my head, but instead position my body so the pistol is in front of my left eye. With a target straight in front of me, I tend to use a modified weaver stance instead of isosceles, with my right elbow locked. This shifts the pistol to my left eye, and I have no issues getting 'confused' with which eye I should be using. I didn't want to force myself to shoot left handed, because while I do a lot of things left handed, (batting, golfing, hockey), I was already used to shooting right handed.

$30-40 per thousand is pretty common for 40 brass.

4.9 makes 173pf with Missouri 200 LSWC @ 1.250 for me, out of a old school kimber 1911.

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Not sure what you mean by "did you have a case 'flaring'". Are you asking if I had a case in the shell plate when tightening down the nut? thanks for reponding Yes, case in shellplate and handle down, before tightening up both the powder die nut, and the powder measure collar.

I used to get similar results on my 650 when loading mixed headstamp 40. Sometimes its because the cases are different lengths, sometimes because a case is thicker than another. This can also happen when your shellplate is a little on the loose side, and you get the 'hard' sizing case vs the easy one, the shellplate can move enough to affect OAL, crimp, and flare. I just try to adjust the flare so the 'average' is correct, you'll get some with more and some with less, but that seems pretty normal. One question though, when you setup your powder die and powder measure, did you have a case 'flaring' while tightening the locknut on the powder die and the collar clamp on the powder measure? Having these aligned straight often helps with consistency. I will leave the locknut loose and the collar clamp on the powder measure loose, then adjust the height of the powder die till I have enough flare. Then I will cycle the handle down with a case in the powder drop station, tighten the nut on the powder die, cycle a new case in, and with the handle down tighten the collar on the powder measure.

USPSA is a volunteer sport, if someone is not volunteering enough of their time, tell them about it. Or shoot IDPA :-P