DanielW

Same here - just did mine recently; I think 90% of the class already knew how to detail strip a Glock....but I found I learned lots of little hints and tips that make your life a lot easier. You get a complete immersion in all things Glock; the time flew by and I walked out of the class with the urge to go home detail strip all my Glocks again "the official factory way" Its nice having the official tick in the box now; also good to have all the books etc. Thoroughly enjoyed the day; a good crew there. Well recommended.

Ive had a couple of NCStar scopes. The single biggest problem I had with both of them is they just don't hold a zero for any length of time. And even adjusting the zero is a pain....the clicks are inconsistent (ie sometimes when you dial a click it makes no difference, you dial another one or two and all of a sudden it jumps the other way). I would even lose zero just driving to the range. I just could not trust these scopes for anything. As someone mentioned above, for budget scopes, Primary Arms or the cheaper Vortex lines would be the way to go.

That's what I used to think....till one stage where Id been way downrange pasting targets and had to hustle to shoot my turn. Rapidly pulled rifle from bag and stepped up to the plate....and forgot to glance at the turret markings to see if it had moved (pulling it from my bag moved the turret 2moa...not the best thing to happen going into a long range stage). Its just one more thing you have to check and worry about, which is why I recommend either taping, or preferably, the HS with its capped turrets.

This is a myth, in my experience. The battle comp is less obnoxious and concussive than many regular comps due to its radial dispersal design....but vs an A2 it is noticeably 'louder'; not too bad from the firers position but certainly off to the sides. Its a compromise comp in terms of effectiveness vs noise and blast.

Add me to the ranks who have had the PST knocked out of windage between stages. I currently have my windage turret taped so it cant move. No question, if the Viper HS had been available when I made the purchase, that would have been the one I'd have bought. Great clear optics for the price though; happy with it (taped off for 3 gun!)

Worth a mention that the Sprinco springs don't "sproing" either, but they are not flatwire. I wonder if its more to do with the Chrome Silicon construction rather than the design of the coils?

Which brand of ammo are you using - does it have the red colored sealer on the neck? The only minor issues I've had manually extracting a steel case from a Wylde chambered rifle has been when using ammo that has had the neck of the bullet sealed (i.e. Golden Tiger still does this - the rest of them do not). Even with the sealed rounds it just needed a firmer tug of the charging handle to get it out, nothing serious. If it is (dirty) Russian ammo you are using, very regular chamber brushing/cleaning also helps. As per the comments above I wouldn't think lube would help...more likely make matters worse.

Heard on another board that someone said they had just gotten one from Optics Planet who were in stock: http://www.opticsplanet.net/burris-1-4x24-fullfield-tac30-illum-ballistic-cq-5-56-riflescope.html They often have coupons floating around the internet as well.

Actually they don't Pat....you just push the screw from the other side, the nut then pops out and turns easily and free with fingers on the ADM. There's a screwdriver slot....its strictly optional though. ADM, Bobro, Larue....all great mounts though, no need to pick spots off of any of them imo.

How would you say the two compare....pros/cons of each? Price difference worth it? Always good to hear from people with first hand experience of both. I really like my Viper PST but have never seen a Tac30; thinking about getting one for another rifle.

Can't speak for the TAC30, but I have a Viper PST and like it very much; for my preferences, better than the TR24R it replaced for longer range shooting. Very nice glass for the money. Rather than the PST though, you might consider the Viper HS which has also just come available; it's the same scope as the PST in 1-4 flavor, however it has capped lower profile turrets (more sensible for 3 gun I'd say) and is 20 bucks cheaper. Not that 've needed it, but also worth a mention that Vortex has some of the best customer support out there; they really do stand behind all of their products.

I have a Bobro extended - I think it is a fantastic mount. The locking mechanism is genius and the whole thing is rock solid. Correct torque settings are 15-18 in/lb, you get a small tube of the weak loctite to apply. I also have an ADM mount and a Larue mount - equally great mounts. By way of comparison I'd say Bobro has them beat on the superb QD mechanism; the ADM and Larue has the Bobro beat on ease of mounting due to the side split rings - on the Bobro one of the screws is hard to to torque correctly with the screws being on the underside the base gets in the way. All nitpicky points to be honest; at the end of the day all these mounts hold your scope rock solid. Pic:

From my sample of one....it's great, just the same as any other in spec lower receiver. Pmags drop free no problem. ETA: I also got a stripped upper from them and a BCG. Seems to be good stuff at unbeatable prices.

I'm not surprised, being as Monarch and Brown Bear are one and the same The only difference is the packaging/branding, all rounds are produced in the exact same plant in Russia (Barnaul). The new Wolf "WPA" is now also produced there as well (for the last 6 mos), albeit it still comes in a polymer case. It sounds to me like it is more likely that the bimetal jackets specifically from Barnaul might not be agreeing with your barrel, for whatever reason. If you say the older Wolf (before WPA) worked OK...that could possibly be because that was produced at a different factory (it would be either Tula or Ulyanovsk), and there might have been some sort of minor tolerance that made the difference.

I'd try both triggers in your rifle and use whichever one feels best.

You could try the Mags EFX-A1 stock - I am using one and really like it, nice cheekweld, feels a lot like a SOPMOD but in a fixed A1 length stock. Very nice solid feel with a bit of weight to it but not too much. I feel its a bit of a bargain too, $90 for a full kit inc stock, buffer tube, screw spring and buffer - or you can just get the stock only for a little bit cheaper. http://www.stagarms.com/product_info.php?products_id=373

You might also try Palmetto State Armory - good stuff at a good price, I've put together a couple of rifles using their stripped uppers and lowers. As has been said above, all mainstream uppers come from a handful of forges and are then machined in house or under contract. So long as they are in spec, the difference in price between them often boils down to paying for nothing more than the rollmark. There are some very high quality exceptions exceptions machined to more exacting tolerances (such as the VLTOR MUR, for instance) but in mainstream land there just isn't that much difference between a DPMS, BCM, Stag, DD, Bushmaster, YHM etc etc etc.

Is a 1:12 profile considered optimal for 55gr bullets? I've been considering an irons rifle as well, and I was wondering about one of these: http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/productdetail.aspx?id=GM-M15 or one of these maybe: http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/productdetail.aspx?id=GM-M16

Got 50 of these in to try them and shot 10 of them offhand at 40 yards from my FN SLP Mk1 with the standard IC choke. No feeding trouble at all. I got 9 out of the ten of them on the 8" shoot'n'c I was aiming at - most of them well inside it; big hole right in the middle. The one dropped shot was my fault. Also shot 5 of my regular Federal low recoils side by side for comparison - found no difference between them and the Centurions in POI and felt recoil. Will try at longer range when i get the opportunity, but as is, I felt it was plenty good enough for me to go ahead and order 250 more at the bargain price they are at (31c a slug) for more extensive testing

FWIW I have the Nordic-Lilja; very impressed indeed. Beautifully machined; shoots way better than I do. Competitive price too (especially with the coupon for Brian Eno's members)

Same here; both places are great. I also look at www.gun-deals.com, sometimes get some good pointers from that. Thanks for the headsup....might have to try those. Looks like they are running $80 for 250 right now. http://www.sgammo.com/product/centurion/250rds-12-gauge-centurion-1-18-oz-slug-275-inch-1400-fps I have been using these guys to good effect: http://www.sgammo.com/product/federal/250rd-federal-hydra-shok-slug-le127rs but that Centurion price is hard to beat...

I have the fiber optic front sight on my FN SLP. For general shots I focus on the target and (as bayoushooter describes) superimpose a sort of a flash sight picture over it utilizing the 'U' groove in canitilever rail and front sight. For slug shots I flip up my rear blade sight for a bit more precision but essentially do the same thing. I am finding I really like the fiber optic front sight for shotgun....so long as my head is correctly positioned I feel I can use it a bit like a red dot.

Well in that case you'll be glad to know there are lots of pictures in that book! It really is very good and its light reading; reads more like Kyle teaches rather than theory packed. It gives great explanations about what you should be doing, but he always caveats everything with the need for getting out there and making it work for you individually.

IFound mine didn't lock up 100% solid on the fifth or sixth (fully extended) positions...had a tiny, tiny bit of up/down play (on 2 different buffer tubes). Nothing to worry about though, I just figured that is how they are.

That's what I used for the second part of last year. I am very happy with it. Thanks! Mine arrived yesterday and... I'm not sure what to think. Outer shipping box is pristine, but the *inside* of the scope box looks like it was shaken by a gorilla for a week or two. Scope was loose inside the box, all the little "cut-outs" that should have held the scope in place were bent/battered/torn. I called the vendor to see if this is "normal", they haven't returned the call. I'm reluctant to mount the scope before I know whether or not it is likely to have been damaged in shipping (or a return/refurb?!?) I think you are probably over-worrying just a bit....I wouldn't be at all concerned about a battered box if the scope itself is fine. If I was you I'd look through the scope and spin the turrets - if everything moves as it should, I'd then go ahead and mount it. And as mentioned above, the great thing with Vortex is that if there should be an issue, they will take care of you very quick, regardless of who the vendor is (or even if you bought it used, come to that).