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Everything posted by dskinsler83
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Compact Timberwolf Frame, uses a G19 Gen4 locking block, with a G17 Gen3 Slide, G19L barrel (17 length) and LW slide gap filler
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Gees brother.
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Course hey you dont gotta take my word for it, heck what do I know Just follow this link -> and all of your questions on what can go on what and what it needs. But fair warning, I done told ya lol https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=922564
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What doesnt work? The barrel foot is diffferent on the 19 due to the locking block, so as I said you need a specificly made barrel from either lonewolf or brownells that is for the application needed. A G19L barrel is for a G17 length slide and a G19XL barrel is for a G34 slide. That was the whole reason Lonewolf started making the barrels in the first place my friend, to allow people to do this very thing WITHOUT having to hack the grip of a G17/34 off. This will work Gens 2-4 for sure, of course the slide of a Gen4 will not fit a Gen3 frame (except the baby frames G26/27) but a Gen3 slide will fit a Gen4 frame. Lonewolf also makes the gap spacers for these conversions AND to cover the gap when using a Gen3 slide on a Gen4 frame. But they also now make Gen4 slides so meh. The Gen5 pistols use a barrel foot like a G19 from my understanding but I am not 100% sure just 95% sure.
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Just used the non loaded chamber load bearing in the spring and maybe pic up a fresh 40 extractor the thicker bearing ( its the thick white one, not the thin wide one) increases the tension on the exctractor. As for a new extractor even getting the older Non Loaded Chamber Indicator Extractor is said to help as well with the thicker bearing. Also make sure the claw is free of thick carbon and debris build up. Regards, DK
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Its cut as a 9mm extractor not for a 40. The claw is different
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Yeah ya can. Until recently all ya needed specifically made barrel known as a G19L or G19XL. Now all ya gotta do is buy a Gen5 17 or Gen5 34 compatible barrel ;-).
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Gunbroker has them pretty regularly
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You can use a 17/34 top on a G19 you can use the slide adapter from LoneWolf to cover the gap. Brownells makes a slide that is a G19L and has the accompanying barrel for it. Which also leads to another thing. For the build you will have to buy a specific barrel for the specific build. Buying a barrel for a Gen5 17 or 34 will work as they use the same locking block as a G19.
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Glock 17 chopped to 19 legal in Carry Optics Division?
dskinsler83 replied to nnylf7's topic in Glock
Personally I would point you to SC 5 under Production. Also there have been no long slide G19s produced, which would also mean it is not a production made item, but a custom item not offered by Glock in any fashion. That alone would make it illegal for Production and CO. -
trimming OFM beavertail backstrap - Production Legal Mod?
dskinsler83 replied to gomerpyle's topic in Glock
Heck in all honesty who knows at this point. It will either be “well it isnt listed so its illegal” or “just because it is not listed as illgeal doesnt mean its ok, but doesnt mean it isnt either”. I like to take the road of in Production, CO, or Single Stack of if it is not specifically stated as allowed then, it isnt allowed. But we are also not supposed to be objective. Eh well -
Glock Slide Locks...do they really aid accuracy/fit?
dskinsler83 replied to wanttolearn's topic in Glock
What the above just stated. ^ a slide lock on a Glock has nothing to do with accuracy. -
Itll fit, its still a G34. Just a little different in the grip area.
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Yep it can be done. Just machined in.
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Actually just Pm me here
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Which connector is it again? Dont swap anything yet
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The TTI Kit includes a connector, springs, and housing pin only.
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Nothing other than the included housing pin (if it is even different) If you are using a Gen3 then you should be G2G for using the included heavy trigger spring Regards, DK
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Gen5’s do not use the traditional trigger return spring anyways. They use a system similar to the NY trigger springs from the G42/43/43X/48.
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If it is a Gen4 you will not be able to use a extra power trigger spring. I only use and recommend the stock power trigger spring.
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I go to about a 10lb spring for my G34s. I use a load that is about a 137pf amd like the snap and fast cycle. 12-13lb is what seems to be the average though.
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Is it a factory striker? I was thinking it wasnt
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I would say that the heat and bend induced your light primer strikes. Im gonna get on a bit of a tangent here and please do not take it personally. One can NOT compare the firing mechanism of a Glock to another pistol, especially a hammer fired SA pistol. I have said it so MANY TIMES to customers who contact me wanting a “as close to a 1911 as you can get” trigger. It is a GLOCK not a 1911/2011 or any other 11. A Glock mechanism has to HAVE movement in ALL directions of design to function properly. The is no magic voodoo this trigger has no pre or over travel what so ever Glock trigger out there, if it is claimed, well then something somewhere isnt working correctly. Namely the drop and FP block safeties. Ok. Now sorry but had to say it. On to the ammo, is it factory or reloaded? Primers if reloaded? Machine used to reload them? OAL of reload? Also be sure you do not have to much over travel removed. You should be able to shake the pistol with striker down and here it hitting the breach face. If not then you are not getting the FP block out of the way sufficiently. This causes the striker to hit the FP block eventually rendering it useless by damaging the shoulder and damaging the grooves of the strikeread on the right side. The Glock striker works off of power of the spring being compressed, if anything adjusting the angle to increase the engagement has created a greater compression than to less of one as it has further to move until it releases. A SA pistol like a 1911 on the other hand is driving a firing pin into the primer by striking it, usually by way of at minimum a 17lb main spring, which is what 13lb heavier by comparison. Check the ammo, check the firing pin and fp block, check to be sure your ogive of the bullet is not hitting the rifling causing slightly out of battery conditions, oh and last but certainly not least check the spring cups. Misaligned spring cups can cause drag in the liner, be sure the end of the striker spring is not splitting the cups, turn the cups to keep a solid area over the ending of the coil. Hope this helps. Regards, DK
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Happy shooting