Youngeyes

Love it! Can you feel the NEED in this forum?

Grumpy, Can I use Federal small pistol magnum primers in my 9mm minor load (4.2 Titegroup or Vhtavuori N320 124 grain Montana Gold CMJ loaded to 1.150 1.160)? Power factor 130-135 depending on which powder used. will the magnum primers affect PF? That exact load gave me problems with breech face erosion, watch your slide. I don't need erosion on my breech or on my face. I will use the regular pistol primers. Thanks. It's all a matter of pressure. If you have enough pressure to seal the primer in the pocket when it goes "bang", there won't be any blow back, therefore no breech face erosion. I would suspect the issue with Dyno's breech face erosion could be traced to worn out primer pockets on used brass. That much tite group should create enough pressure to seal just about anything, especially with Federal primers, which are generally softer than most others.... There are two things which cause breech face erosion....too light of a charge, or too loose primer pockets... Sorry for the late question. I had powder blow back around the primers and some breech face erosion in a 44 mag S&W. I found I was over charging the powder load. Lowering the charge fixed the problem. Where does this fit into the loose pockets or too light a charge as the causes of blow back? Thanks. Although it's not exactly a loose primer pocket, the cause of your erosion is probably due to a soft primer (which is kind of strange, most of the time a soft primer will generally seal quite well). My guess is that you had so much pressure, it was blowing past the seal created from the primer and cutting the breech face. Did the primers in the fired rounds looked cratere, flattened, or completely flat? Sounds right. The primers were flatter than usual. I'm going to try a different powder to stay in the 1300 FPS range but keep the pressure down. Thanks.

Grumpy, Can I use Federal small pistol magnum primers in my 9mm minor load (4.2 Titegroup or Vhtavuori N320 124 grain Montana Gold CMJ loaded to 1.150 1.160)? Power factor 130-135 depending on which powder used. will the magnum primers affect PF? That exact load gave me problems with breech face erosion, watch your slide. I don't need erosion on my breech or on my face. I will use the regular pistol primers. Thanks. It's all a matter of pressure. If you have enough pressure to seal the primer in the pocket when it goes "bang", there won't be any blow back, therefore no breech face erosion. I would suspect the issue with Dyno's breech face erosion could be traced to worn out primer pockets on used brass. That much tite group should create enough pressure to seal just about anything, especially with Federal primers, which are generally softer than most others.... There are two things which cause breech face erosion....too light of a charge, or too loose primer pockets... Sorry for the late question. I had powder blow back around the primers and some breech face erosion in a 44 mag S&W. I found I was over charging the powder load. Lowering the charge fixed the problem. Where does this fit into the loose pockets or too light a charge as the causes of blow back? Thanks.

I hope this guy had a vasectomy. We'd be in some serious s**t if his genes made it to another generation. That was funny as hell though!

"From here on out when I want to shoot reloads I'll just provide the supplies, and a friend and experienced reloader will reload for me" That's a lot of trust to put on a friend. Certainly let him/her watch you reload. Even though you sold your equipment you can use your friend's stuff and you supply the fixins. I would never forgive myself if I reloaded for a friend and they got hurt. Don't put that kind of potential hurt on a good bud. Let them show you the way. JMHO.

Just personal experience, but I just sent a gun to Colt for repair. Ct to Ct. Fedex overnight as per colt instructions. I assume (oops) that they know ct law. Any other ( read different ) state members want to add their experiences with a recognized gun repair outfit? Might make a nice list to refer to.

+1 for Trey. Just remove the decaping pin and don't load any primers. You'll have all stations filled, which give you more consistant loads, and get practce running all stations in rotation to get the feel of the new 550. Have fun, it's a great machine.

Make it a general rule to...Load the gun

See the shot.

Since you guys are buying all these 9 volt batteries, get a few to change your smoke alarms. Stay safe.

In that case can you send me your brass?

I'm still a newbie to reloading(~1.5 yrs) but I found learning on a good quality machine(read Dillon here) makes all the differance in deciding future needs and costs. Check BrianEnos.com. I'm sure you'll find a great set-up for a very good price without spending thousands of dollars. Learn, enjoy, shoot then reevaluate. Makes all the diff, especially on a budget. A great sport is only made better when you reload, even if you break even in the costs. You can always get a good resale price on starter level equipment and move up later. Just my 2 cents.

Here's the inside look. I fused it with a 1 amp fast fuse in case of surge. Prochrono needs 24 volts to light up. Tried 12 but the lights won't come on. The red light must be on to show operation. The IR lights can be seen with a cell phone camera. Not sure why. The camera must be picking up more wavelength than the human eye can see. My way of being sure of proper operation. Box weighs about 3 lbs.

You need: 2 12 volt Pb acid batteries. I used BPI.2 12 TI B&B batteries. Only about 2inches long. 7x5 project box from Radio Shack. M size male and female D/C connectors. 2 12V 750MA Pb acid chargers. Velcro tape Heat shrink wire sheaths. 1 on/off switch. The whole wire set-up, to run from the batteries to the lighting, you get by cutting the A/C set that comes with with the ProChrono light kit. You attach connectors to go back to wall power if you want. Plug into battery pack or plug back to A/C. The batteries are connected in series with the jumper wire run to the on/off switch. You need to disconnect as you must charge the batteries separately. The M connector on the box is the main connected to the + from one battery and the - from the other. The other 2 M female connectors on the box are ports to charge. These are wired to each battery separately. I'll try to post a picture of the inside to show the wiring. The batteries have 1.2 amp hr. The lighting pulls 200 mA. You should get 6 hrs if you run non-stop and run the power down. It is advised to only draw 80% before charging. PS. the batteries are held in the box with the velcro for easy removal. All connections to the batteries should be push on types. NOTE. All typos and stupid errors are all mine. I'm Youngeyes and I approve this message.

Hi. Anyone who uses a Pro Chrono needs a battery box. I spent all winter waiting for the one indoor lane that had an outlit. Tiring quickly of the game without end I built a box that can supply about 5 hrs of run time , can be recharged without opening the box and it all fits in a small padded lunch box. More important I LOVE IT!!! Suggestions are welcome, even anatomically impossible suggestions. PS Did I mention I LOVE IT!! Thank you Flexmoney for your help in posting the pictures.

PM SENT

1. What primers are you using? 2. Did the misfires fire the second time? 3. High primers are most likely the cause if they fire the second time. The first strike seats the primer deeper( the light looking strike), the second fires the load. No proof but consensus seems to be that cci primers are harder and therfore need a stronger strike to fire. Federal are the touchier of the primers. Winchester in the middle. Good luck. Revolvers rule.

Check the paperclip thingee. It acts as a button to hold the case in place. I had the same prob. Also be sure you have the correct shell plate. Good luck.

I've used a rubber flexible plumbing connector as a neat funnel to catch primers. It's shaped like a squat icecream cone. Push it in the collector cup and it works great. Home depot under flex coupling. Not sure of size. If you'd like I can PM you with size when I get home.

Wait for it......

I like that. Let's stay with the "my brass is so old" thing. My brass is so old it needs viagra to stand up in the press.

All good stuff. Number one on your list, unlike the head honcho at Sinclair in his videos, should be a good pair of safety glasses. Enjoy the addiction of reloading.

Why a SD and a 650 for the same caliber? Just curious.

Wow. I just spent days reading all the posts in the general reloading and load data section. Incredible amount of experience is in these posts. I even felt like I got to know the people who have been posting since the beginning. Highly recommended, two thumbs up reading material for anyone loading or for just a good read. Good stuff, good people, good forum. Just felt the need to comment.