Youngeyes

Would someone please hook these E-Bay "people" into www.BrianEnos.com and search RF 100 primer filler. Warranty and everything. I must admit to seeing the funny part.

Yup! What he said. +1000

"West Virgina Chrome"

Good find. Run the same brass through several times and you should be good to go. Also try a very small amount of mineral spirits. It will spread out the polish better and reduce dust.

Wow, are you going to be happy when Dillon gets done with your new toy. Remember that there is a learning curve with every new skill. Best of luck. PS Stay out of Wall-Mart. Those days are done.

1. What media are you using to polish? 2. What polish are you adding to the polishing media?

I vote for the match answer.

Every time I see a large range and discrepancy in loading data the companies I call all say the magic word"SAAMI". Since this seems to be the word on velocities and pressures,and not all manuals give you pressure ratings, I thought this info might be an interesting(or not) read. Old stuff to some, new to people like me. http://www.saami.org/specifications_and_information/publications/download/205.pdf Enjoy.

GoGoGo.JayJayJay.ReloadReloadReload.

If you introduce an ophthalmic lens ( eyeglasses) between your eye and the scope, and you are not looking through the optical center of the eyeglass lens, you are getting a prizmatic effect which will move your view of the target. Have your Dr. mark that optical center on your glasses for you and you should see a differance. The best way is to use an RX lens set on the scope, if the scope can be made with an RX ring add-on. If you can set the scope to correct your vision with the diopter lens on the scope, use it without your glasses. Couldn't hurt. And you thought you were confused before. Always room for more confusion.

I had the same problem with the paperclip dingus. If it's set too far to the left and low, it grabs between the shellplate and the brass and hangs up. Move the piece next to the brass back and bend it up slightly. Set too low and it acts as a break. It should be above the base of the brass. It acts as the locator button for station one. You should be good. Also check that the primer cup is at the right height. It can also drag and hold up the shell plate from moving or not seat a primer well which can do the same thing.

Thanks for sharing. Very usefull.

Excellent. I always wondered why that warning was there. Adding it to my "Warning! Danger Will Robinson" file. Thanks.

I'm allergic to cats. Everytime Schrödinger's cat doesn't come in the room I sneeze. AAAAACHOOOOO! There he isn't again!

This may or may not work? I know this is time consuming but I have been slowly working on loads for my Glock 35. I am not sure if this is even going to work but here is something I have been doing. I load ten rounds and visually watch the powder going into the case. After I load ten rounds I weight each one on the scale. The rounds all should be between 1 or 2 grains max from each other. If one is more or less than 3 grains I will not use it. I have noticed over time that if I use mixed brass this method will not work because each brand of brass(federal,speer,et.) weights differently. So I have to use the same head stamped brass for my reloading. I also made a chart of what each brand of a empty case weights. Is this stupid or what do you guys think? Stupid is an ugly word. But it is a huge waste of time I think. Brians recommendation is the best by far. Some things I do: Wear safety "reading" glasses. If you need glasses for up close vision then make sure you do the same for reloading. Flood the machine area with light. I can't say enough here. Mount the press at a height that lets you look right into the brass on the shellplate. Focus on the plate. I look directly at the shellplate and let my eyes see a primer in the cup and powder in the the case. My hands go to bullet and brass bins without me looking. It's all "feel" for me at that point. This technique has gotten me to 400+ per hour on my 550. SAFELY! Very nice list. I really like the "safety" addition to wearing reading glasses. Too many people think anything on the face is good enough. One minor comment. Anything one does to feel safer in reloading IMHO is never a waste of time. Time consuming, yes, waste, no.

PF, I did fire a primed but unloaded round. The primer moved back out of the pocket. Do you think that with the charge in place the case would have slammed the case back and flattened the primer on the reseat? Also can this headspace be adjusted by a gunsmith and should it be done? Thanks In bold, yes I have seen that happen. the case is forward from the firing pin strike, then ignition causes the case to grab the chamber, then the pressure backs out the primer a little while it's very hot. So the unsupported part of the primer expands some and gets reseated after the pressure drops a little and the case is pushed back. The tricky part is that the same thing can happen with a over pressure round. So if you see no indications of over pressure (sticky cases, leaking primers, velocities abouve what you should get, etc....) then I would say just keep an eye on it and don't worry. As far as adjusting the headspace, I wouldn't worry about it unless you get other problems. You can probably measure it with a new case and a feeler guage. Another thing you might do just for kicks is to load it up full with that load and see if all the cyliders show the same condition. One other thing came to mind, what primers? Also I just checked the Hogdgen page and see you are a grain below starting weight. There was a deal with WW-296 where it was stated not to go below minimum charge weight.(pressure spike or something) You may want to check into that. Not sure if that applies but H-110 and WW-296 are very similar in data and temperment at least that's what I remember using them in 38 super loads. Yep. I've seen that "don't go below warning" myself. The Hornady manual starts the load at 12.7 gr. Hodgdon at 15gr. In the absence of other pressure signs I'll try out the 15gr. I'm using winchester sp magnum primers. I've never noticed them to be particularly soft and subject to flattening from normal ignition. I went to the range yesterday and crono'd a new batch at 14gr H-110. All showed the flat primers so you're probably dead on that the headspace is the issue. Wish I had thought to fire some in my wife's S&W to see if there was a differance. Back to the 550B.

PF, I did fire a primed but unloaded round. The primer moved back out of the pocket. Do you think that with the charge in place the case would have slammed the case back and flattened the primer on the reseat? Also can this headspace be adjusted by a gunsmith and should it be done? Thanks

If the pictures came up they are of some of a fired reload and primers. I'm loading 14 gr of h-110, starline brass, 158 gr XTP,winchester spm and OAL 1.585. The picture of the primers shows the mag fired primer next to a primer from a spent 38spl. I have heard that this can be normal for a 357 mag revolver. I'm shooting a 6" colt mark V. The load is very close to very mid in the Hornady book and chronos out at 1150fps. The primers look damn flat to me. The picture with the primer on it's side shows a ridge. No other pressure signs. The brass drops free from the cylinder after shooting.I don't have any factory stuff so can't compare. All help is appreciated.

How does this work? The picture shows that it goes between the star bottom and the top of the shellplate. These two move together as on unit. Wouldn't it be better to reduce friction at the bolt top or the interface of the shellplate and platform?

Everybody send me all your credit card info and I'll keep it safe for you. Really. Honest. No strings. No foolin. Trust me. I'll send flowers to the whole forum.

It's all good here in the land of BE. Remember, everyone including the post you mention wanted to answer your question. Peace my brother.

Small wire cutting pliers. The sharp edge will score and grab the wire. Be VERY carefull. Or send it back to Dillon. Life is too short to f**k with a stupid wire. Ps Welcome to the forum.

Here's an old ad about staynless primers.http://www.riflemagazine.com/magazine/PDF/hl42partial.pdf.

All of the above don't mean squat if you can't shoot good. Shiny brass doesn't make it shoot any better than just plain cleaned brass... I was hoping no one would mention the shooting good part.

My brass looks good, my gun looks good, I look good. Nuff said!