45 Raven

Anyone know what happened to Nils Johnasson at the nationals? The results show him as a DNF.

Ryan: That is an excellent piece of work, right down to the paint! Well done!

If you expect it, you will experience it. Focus on familiarizing yourself with the differences in operation between the two pistols in dry fire, then just shoot it during matches.

A safe made by Liberty and in the condition you describe (perfect) shouldn't lose much value in 10 years. I would recommend using what the seller paid for it as a baseline to begin negotiations. Not certain what the improvements are you are referencing, but the buyer needs to determine what they are worth to him personally. And sometimes "improvements" aren't necessarily "improvements". Not saying this is the case with Liberty safes, but some of the "Improved" electronic locks aren't an improvement over a manual one, for more reasons than one!

The most accurate I have seen is the MG 124 JHP over 4.0 grains of W231 and at a COAL of 1.085" for about 1050 FPS in a Gen4 G17.

It's pretty tough to provide you with one definitive answer. The 124 gr. Montana Gold CMJ works at several COAL's and the one you decide on should be based on the specific pistol you are going to shoot it in as well as the powder you use and the specific powder charge you decide works best for you in your gun. Most of the powders you have mentioned will work okay for the 9mm cartridge. I recommend you check this forum for information on reloading the 9mm cartridge or information on reloading Montana Gold bullets (there is quite a bit of that information here) and pick two or three "favorite" loads for a pistol similar to yours and give them a try. Sorry I an not being more specific, but there are really a lot of correct answers to your question!

Go for it. I stayed away from pistol competition for 22 years and then started shooting IDPA and steel matches when I retired at age 60. Now going on 66 and enjoying every minute of it. Any day at a match is better than sitting around the house or fishing, in my opinion!

Warren Sevigny rear with .150" wide notch and Dawson Precision .245" tall X .125" wide fiber optic front

1. Look inside the lower (entrance) end of the sizer die. Is there a carbide ring around the inside of the mouth. If so, yes, it is carbide. If not, then it isn't carbide. 2. Do you mean another nut in addition to the one shown in the photo?

Move the rear sight the direction you want the bullet to impact. Typically, a narrower front sight is less precise and not as conducive to good group shooting as it is to speed.

What about maple butcher block?

It's difficult to provide a cut and dried answer, and I think it really depends on the specific profile of your SWC bullet. The 48th edition of the Lyman Reloading Handbook suggests a COAL of 1.161" for one style 200 gr. SWC and a COAL of 1.235" for a different style 200 gr. SWC. Being unable to compare your bullet to the ones in the Lyman manual, I think would load up a few dummy rounds that are incrementally shorter than your current load (perhaps in .005" increments) and see how they feel/feed when cycling them through your pistol. If a specific COAL seems to be an improvement, I would load up a few to that length and try them in the pistol. Don't forget that when COAL is reduced, pressure increases if the powder charge is kept the same!

It depend on several factors, including the magazine, the specific pistol design, the way the chamber and feed ramp might be cut, the bullet profile, and probably more that I can't think of right now.

Which Vanek trigger did you install?

I think it might just be personal preference. I have used both and prefer the ASR because the Tek-Lok adds unnecessary weight and bulk to the holster or pouch. However, the Tek-Lok is almost bomb proof. I had one SRB holster wit the ASR attachment that continuously popped the locking bar out, even when I installed new bars.

Everyone has made good points and recommendations, but I would add that it's important to completely drain your powder measure after each use and store the powder in its original container. This keeps the powder properly stored in a labeled container. helps avoid exposure of the powder to humidity, serves to prevent discoloration of the plastic in the powder measure, and takes the guesswork out of what powder was left in the measure the last time it was used.

I would start at 23.0 for that pistol. My load for a 250 gr. hard cast SWC in my 9 1/2" Ruger SRH (purchased in 1989) is 24.2 grains and is the most accurate revolver load I have ever developed.

Not sure I am understanding the question. Do you mean that you have left the powder hopper on your SDB full of powder since you began using it?

Glad I could help.

I was so ugly when I was born the doctor slapped my mother!

I've shot Gen 3 17's and 34's on steel and in IDPA matches in Production and SSP divisions. A lot. I still can't tell you which one I like best. I think the 34 helps me out on longer shots and the 17 seems to index more rapidly for me. I like them both. I can't shoot up to either pistol, and there isn't enough difference in them to matter to me personally. So I shoot them both.

I'm not familiar with that specific bullet configuration, but 23.0 to 24.0 grains of H110 is plenty safe and accurate and provides low sd's and good MV from several Ruger SA pistols as well as a S&W Mountain Gun. Make certain you have a FIRM roll crimp on the bullet when crimping.

Here you go. Your answer is at about 1:40 in the video in the attached link:

I experienced an issue as you described with a Wilson Combat barrel for a Glock G17. Just loading slightly shorter COAL solved the issue neatly.

I recommend the RMR02. Non-adjustable, and seems to be more robust than the ones with adjustments for dot intensity. Recently upgraded (durability) by Trijicon and now have 6.5 MOA dots in them.