CZinSC

I weighed a good number of samples from all 4 of the boxes of 500 I received. All of them weighed 125.0 to 125.4. So they definitely must have changed something in the weight, and not changed the label on the box. I got a chance to test the loads I worked up this week and got the following, shooting out of a CZ SP01: Three 20 round strings using WSP, once fired Win cases, 4.2gn Titegroup, 1.140 OAL: Hi 1082 1078 1084 Lo 1054 1031 1045 Avg 1068 1066 1071 ES 28 47 39 SD 8 11 10

It was late last night when I weighed them,so I was just getting ready to call it a night, i only weighed 4 of them. But all four were exactly 125.4. When I get home tonight I'm going to weigh some more, and then open the other two boxes and take some samples from them to see what they weigh.

I've got the same thing, unfortunately I run the sound through a surround sound amplifier, so the volume limiter doesn't work.

Title says it all. I just got 2000 Zero 124FMJ and i put some of the on the scale and they weight 125.4. Is this normal? I expected +/- a few tenths, but 1.4gr? I double checked the box to make sure they weren't 125's. So when I calculate PF, I should use actual bullet weight right? That is what happens at a Major on the chrono. The other question is, I was planning on 4.2gr TG with an OAL of 1.140, based on what others have said on the forum. However, the COL on the Hodgdon site says 1.090. So am I still good at 1.140? I checked and they drop free from the barrel at this length, using it as a case gage.

I'm glad someone else posted this because lack of respect for the flag really burns my bacon. For the current topic, I agree with what everyone has written about the flag at half staff. Displaying it that way for Steinbrenner? Give me a friggin break. It also infuriates me when I see people hang the flag the wrong way. (not having the union in the upper left). And what's worse is when I politely tell them it's wrong, they tell me "No, that's the proper way" One of the rules that a lot of people are not aware of is "The flag should never be carried flat or horizontally, but always aloft and free". Every year at the Super Bowl they bring the flag out and strech it across the whole field. Big no-no.

Yes, the two majors I've been to and gone through a Chrono, when it's your turn, an RO walks you through. The Make Ready command is given, and you unholster, lock the slide back, and place the gun on the table for the Chrono guy. He takes it from there. Loads the mag in the gun, does the test firing, and when he is done, he places it back on the table ( I think, cant remember if he handed back or placed on table). The RO then gives you the ULSC, Hammer Down, Holster commands.

I think you just hit the nail on the head! I recently had to remove the rod, and I adjusted that nut/spring. I must have adjusted it back too tight.

Thanks for the tips Grumpy, I really do appreciate it!

Yes, I have one. Luckily I knew the primers were high and didn't drop powder or seat the bullet. Makes me feel better that this is normal. And no, the shellplate wouldn't turn. I had to wiggle a few out. I had one last week so high that i had to remove the shellplate. My question on this is, is it safe? Is there a chance the primer could go off if its forced and won't go? I'd rather throw it away than risk a primer going off. That was one of the first things I looked for, but thanks for mentioning it anyway. I had an issue with the spent primer chute sticking open, so after reading about that issue on the forums elsewhere, I replaced the cotter pin with a paperclip bent on both ends. Now the chute doesn't stick at all and the spent primers are going where they should.

I went to the bench to do some reloading tonight and things didn't go great. I had a few issues, nothing terrible, but since I'm still new, only about a month of reloading, I figured I'd seek the advice of BE crew. I'm loading on a 550, using Winchester Small Pistol primers. Using once fired Win 9mm brass, tumbled and polished. Sor first, I ended up with a few cases that have high primers. They didn't seat all the way. What do I do with them now? I'm hesitant to try and seat them further in case something prevented them from going all the way in, instead of me just short stroking (which i know i did a couple of times). For saftey sake, I'd prefer to just chuck them, instead of trying to save the minimal amount of money for several cases and primers. Do I just throw them in the trash? Is that safe? Or is there a method of safely removing the primer? Second, on a couple I know I didn't push all the way forward, just short stroked it. So chalk it up to operator error. However, on a couple of others, I knew right away it didn't feel right, like it didn't seat properly, but I thought I pushed far enough. After having 4 out of 100, I called it a night and put the 550 to bed. Is there something else I should be looking for that may be causing this, other than short stroking it? (I checked and made sure there weren't any spent primers laying on the press preventing the primer feeder from moving all the way forward) The next question is about something I've noticed lately while I put the completed rounds in the ammo box. While looking for high primers, making sure there are no obvious OAL issues (I do use the caliper every 20 or so while making them), but one last look can't hurt. Anyway, I see that some of the primers have a very slight indent. Nothing major, but enough to notice. Is this normal, or am I seating them too hard? I push the handle forward until it stops, and I don't think I'm forcing it. I use a smooth motion and never drop the handle forward. The picture really exaggerates some of the rounds. They don't look that bad. But to get an idea, look at the very bottom left one. Does that look normal?

USPSA rulebook on www.uspsa.org Rule 8.3 Range Communication ( rule #'s 8.3.1 through 8.3.8 ) Make Ready Are you Ready - ( lack of negative response indicates shooter is ready ) Standby Start Signal Stop - if RO sees something wrong like 180 violation, finger in trigger guard while moving, hears a squib, etc. If you are Finished, Unload and Show Clear If Clear, Hammer down, Holster Range is Clear

Same EXACT thing happened to me when I first got my 550 and the Enos scale a few weeks ago. While setting it up, I dialed in the powder to drop 4.0 grains. Measure on the scale, sure enough 4.0. However, I noticed that the case ( 9mm ) was quite full. My analytical brain thought "Hmm, that's weird, the guys on the forum said it was possible to double load a 9mm, that a double charge would fit in the case". When I looked at how full it was, about 3/4, i thought, no way you can double charge it. If you did it would spill out. So I kept dropping charges, and weighing. After about the 5th or 6th one, the lightbuld finally went on over my head and I thought "doesn't this scale also measure in Grams??" sure enough I looked at the "units" button and cycled through from Grams (g) to grains (gr). Luckily I found out my mistake before I blew up my hand or the gun, or both. Glad to hear no harm came to you. Also very glad there is a place like brianenos.com to come and read what everyone else has to say, otherwise I might have followed through on my mistake. Thanks everyone!

+1 on Shooters Connection! I ordered 2000 Zero 124 FMJ, and a bottle of Pro Grip. They shipped seperately due to the Free shipping on bullets. I placed the order for both on Tuesday July 6th. USPS dropped off the bullets a few hours ago....UPS is supposed to be delivering the Pro Grip later today. Now that's quick. Pretty funny though that USPS beat UPS to my door!

Sounds good! I'll look for you on the 24th.

Yep, looking back now it certainly makes more sense. I need to be in your squad next time so you can impart these nuggets of wisdom to me. IMO, one of the challenges of shooting production is being squadded with all Limited and Open shooters. ( very few Prod shooters at Spartanburg ) So it's hard to run a stage the same way they do. Sure, there are always things you can pull from what they do. But you're on your own when figuring out where to do your reloads and how to shoot it. One of my better days was when a GM Production shooter was in the squad. Following him around opened my eyes to a lot good alternatives.

Agree with you 100%. Originally when I did the walk through I practiced at the port. Last minute changed my mind and tried to shoot them further away and save time. But as you noted, the way I did it took more time, and in the end, I hit the NS's, so i was really in the hole. Lesson learned for next time. This is my new number one goal. I've noticed it myself, and having someone point it out only reinforces it. So thank you. I think you hit the nail on the head. I find it very hard to get my weak hand into a comfortable, REPEATABLE position. Last time when I practiced I started trying this. However shooting at the range is no substitute for dry firing and getting it down correctly. Going to really work on that the next few weeks before the next shoot. Thanks for the feedback!!

I missed filming that one. By the time i was up, I realized the camera was in the range bag and I didn't feel like digging for it while others waited for me, so i just skipped it. I wish I had though because I can remember "stabbing" at least twice ( at least i didn't shoot, but it cost be a lot of seconds ).

I normally don't do this. No idea why i decided to shoot three at the movers yesterday. Thanks for pointing it out though, I'll need to make sure I don't keep doing this. Thanks to all for the feedback so far. I can look at these videos over and over and still not see the things that those of you who have been doing this awhile can see right away.

Probably a good thing you can't see the grip. That is probably the biggest thing I'm unhappy with right now. I've been working on it at the range, but I need to dry fire, dry fire, dry fire.

Videos taken of me from July 3rd match. Background: Shooting for one year, Production, currently C. Looking for critque on form, draw, etc. First stage notes: third array was shooting 4 paper with no shoot overlaps through a port about 4 feet high. Trying to save time I opted to not get up on the port and take the shots further back. After shooting 2 NS's on the first target, I tried to slow down, plus I wasn't in the best spot, so the little half steps hurt too. 105 pts out of 130, -30 pentalty, 31.1 secs Second state - 22 rounds, you'll see two reloads. Since I shoot production, i was going to need to do two reloads no matter what. After the first arrays when I left the box, I was in slide lock, so I reloaded and took the the middle target dead center, since it was the only good spot I thought to shoot from. I then did the second reload right away so i wouldn't have to do a standing reload in second box, since there were 9 shots left. There were two steal plates. Far left one had to be shot from far left box, far right plate from right box. All other targets were shoot as they became visible. 100/110, -0, 23.82secs Third stage - right side mirrored left side. In the far ports, there were two paper and two poppers, big in front of small one. Idea was to shoot paper, big popper, paper, small. As you can tell from the cadence, I brain farted on the right side, shot both papers first, then had to wait for the big popper to fall to expose small. On left side, did it correctly. Same brain fart on the back arrays. Shot left side as planned, shot right side out of order. Should have worked outside to in like i did on the left side, caused me to wait for the swinger. 131/150, -10, 34.4 secs Fourth stage - shot as planned. 8 rounds(3 paper-2 poppers), 8 rounds(3 paper-2 plates), 8 rounds(3 paper-2 poppers). 108/120, -10, 27.09 secs And thank you Heckler for doing the filming!

Finally got around to taking a picture of my reloading bench so that I could add my work space to the countless others!

I only use USPS when I'm forced to. They are horrible. If I have a choice, I pay the extra for UPS for FedEx.

The safety should not be able to engage in the decocked position. I'm not sure if the Firing pin block is removed if that is the case, but if the FPB is intact, the safety will only engage when it is fully cocked. It won't engage on the half cock either. For the trigger pin, I had the SAME exact problem, right out of the box. Annoyed the crap out of me. I tried peening the end that was coming loose. no luck, eventually it works itself out again. I bought the New Improved Trigger pin from CZCustom. Trigger Pin Replacing it is fairly easy. You just use a punch to punch the old one out. Leave the punch in! Then work the new one in following the punch out. If you do it correctly, it will slide in, and you don't have to replace any springs that fly out! I did this several months ago, it has not budged one milimeter since I put it in. If your current pin is working its way out, I highly recommend this cheap easy fix. By the way, from the picture it looks like you have to peen one of the ends....you don't. Once you insert the pin, it's a tight enough fit that you just leave it as is. The other end is not meant to be peened.

If I understand your question, you want to stipple under the trigger guard, adding to the factory stippling? If that is your question, the answer is no, illegal for Production. Check out Appendix E4. "Checkering, stippling, and/or tape may only be applied to the areas illustrated by the dashed line boundaries which include the frontstrap and backstrap. Grip Tape cannot be applied to any part of the slide, trigger, trigger guard, or any lever or button. Grip Tape or Grip Sleeves cannot disengage a grip safety." The illustrations clearly show only the grip panels, frontstap, and backstrap.

Thanks Sarge, That makes perfect sense. I took Sarge's advice just the other day on this same bullet ( MG 124JHP ). I found my CZ SP01 likes 1.116, but not 1.117. The 1.117 dropped free of the Dillon case gauge, but not the barrel. I've loaded them to 1.114 and so far so good.