Alan Adamson

Ok, fine I just issued you a Match DQ for handling a box of ammo in the safe area (not saying I would, but stuff happens). What rule are you going to use to file your ARB? You can't write "well, it was taught in my RO class that one step away meant I was ok". 2.4.2 says "any circumstance". Where does the rules say your hands "need to be on the rounds themselfs"? You are making stuff up. I guess my biggest point here is, I don't like it when someone says "that's how it is taught so that's the rule". We have a rule book for rules. I agree that picking up a box of ammo to reach something under it should be ok, I just can't see that in the rules. I think you are missing the point... it's not that the "one step to the gun" is the *rule*, it's that it was provided as a way to assess or use the rule, just like the overlay. Second the rule you would use in ARB is 2.4.2/10.5.12 which directly quotes and pretty much defines "handling" - and specifically storage devices.

But what if a real big dude is walking by and the mag hits the big dude in the head! All full of bullets and stuff! I'd say "fine" might be a temporary thing. Probably an over simplification, but in my RO class, it was said.... if it's *one step to the gun*, you are in trouble with ammo in the safe area, more than one step, you are fine... e.g. box of ammo, closed, not liked, but not DQ'able, open, one step from the gun. Live rounds in the mag, mag not in any carrying device, one step from the gun; live rounds in a mag in a belt holder/mag holder - more than one step to the gun and ok... Sure there are special cases (isn't there to anything)... My *very first major* - FL open... hadn't been shooting very long... was overwhelmed with everything going on... Got to the safe area... nice big tabled area where you could put stuff (bet ya know where this is going).... dropped my bag on the table, proceeded to put on my belt. Got my mags out, put them in the holders (empty)... got the gun out, put it in its holster.... <brain out of gear for the next part>.... waiting with others that I came with... figured I'd load the mags while waiting, I mean the gun was on my holster so no biggie right... pulled out a box of ammo (one of those plastic 100 round boxes)... put it on the table (lid closed).... Thankfully one of my shooting associates coached me *quickly* before badness happened.... back in the bag, loaded my mags at the first stage.... Will never do that again!... Amazing how stuff burns in your mind... Plus, would have sucked to go home without even shooting a single bullet from a pretty expensive match!... Figured while on topic, I'd share. Now no comments from the local (to me) peanut gallery ... Alan

I did this a different way... I went to frys electronics and bought a cheap *powered* usb hub. Then I bought 3 or 4 of those LED gooseneck flexible lamps that they make for laptops, the kind that just plug into a usb port. I then filled up the usb hub with those and bent them where I wanted light. Tiewrapped the hub to the side of the casefeeder mount arm such that it reached everywhere I needed. Did the same on the 1050 as I did with the 650. Just need to equipment last 650 and they all will be the basic same setup. I think I paid $2 for the hub and another couple bucks each for the led lights. Alan

Ah, the issue and I had a long conversation with said builder about this very topic. It centers around this issue. a) in a 9Major and especially a short gun, you have to bump the powder up even with 124's to make Major due to the short barrel and needed velocity, and that's more than a 5" gun, as a result case pressures are higher yet again than a 5" gun for the same powder, now add holes to the barrel and you have to bump again. drop a 115 on top of that load and you have to add more powder again... see the problem starting to show... you are already running a wicked high case pressure and now you need to add more powder to make major given the small bullet. As a result, you cause the chamber to take undo wear as a result of cases expanding much more than they need to with 124's. I know of 2 of said guns that when using 115's and even some loads with 124's, had a number of cases *stick* in the barrel, and would not extract. By the time you get a squib rod, and push them out they have cooled enough that they will come out. In one extreme case, this then created all kinds of havoc with the top lugs, the bottom barrel feet and the link. Dropping the pressure back to a more tolerable amount with a different load fixed the fte issue completely. This is a well documented issue with some forms of fte, the case expands due to pressure, *larger* than the chamber can support, basically *gluing* itself to the chamber wall, and the extractor can't pull it out... once it cools, it will come out normally, but those cases won't drop back in. Long term exposure to this issue will either expand the chamber *or* more likely cause a chamber failure or cracking. Also remember, smiths all have a recipe that they *know* works, it's been proven time and time again, to deviate from that recipe *grossly* will put the tolerances that they build to in unproven territory, and make their lives miserable with support that would have not been needed. All of them like their guns to be used in their *comfort zone*, even to the point, some will not provide warranty if they can prove that it wasn't.... This one is *really good* about support, but he's really picky about what his customers try to do with their guns ... Alan

what nipple adapter? this one... http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1346 Alan

ya mean this one, it was only 4 of 5 down the list... http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86570&view=findpost&p=996740 Oh, and you need no modification to the ejector wire, all you need to do it lift if a little when you place it back over the bolt head... I've run this setup now for a year with no issues... Alan

Get the little nipple adapter for the 650 and a piece of tubing to 2qt soda bottle or some such, you'll never pick up a spent primer again from your 650... On the 550 what I did was found a machined pin that was the exact size that goes in the hinge of the primer chute, then I got little round silicone tubing from the hobby store and cut small sleeves that I placed on the outside of the pin as a retainer, with enough play that the pin could slide back and forth a 1/16 - 1/32.. solved the 550 issue as well.

I think you are very persistent. Kudos to you for sticking it out. Well, so far, I've got it working, so perhaps my perseverance has paid off... I've certainly learned a bunch by doing it, and based upon where I am, I'm worlds above where I was. Do I think the 1050 is as perfect as some would make it - Nope, far from it. However, I had 2 650's already and with 9mm, there simply is no better option, given that I shoot brass that *may* be crimped. So if I can continue to make incremental improvements to it and maybe show Dillon the problems, then perhaps, we'll all benefit. I know you had challenges with yours, I don't know if they were worse, the same or better than the ones I've had, but so far, I'm encouraged... And hopefully my documentation of the issues will show others what they *may* end up with.... Not a pan on Dillon, just what I hope is actual documented fact. Bottom line... time will tell ... Alan

So after a few more adjustments, and sorting out all the S&B brass.... I've now run a number of primer tubes worth of mixed headstamp brass with zero failures (watch I'll jinx myself). I also sent Gary an email with what I think with fix everyone's 1050, at least the crushed primer issue... If I had the tools, I think I could build what I described to him relatively easily. Basically what is needed is as follows. (ONE NOTE, I did not look to see if the large base to the primer punch could be dropped down into the primer punch hole from the top, if there is a shoulder in the hole, this may not work without lower casting modifications.) a) take the primer punch and make it in 2 parts... a.1) the large base with spring step, drilled and tapped for the punch stem see the next part; a.2) the punch as a stem with threads that will thread into the large base. Also, put a larger tip on it and taper the tip to the small stem. - This is the real fix. That head needs to be on the order of .155-.160 in diameter you'll need to increase the hole size in the primer slider to allow for the larger head on the primer punch c) now take the primer bushing and create a matching taper to allow the primer punch head to center and rest flush with the primer bushing. Now to assemble all of this, do so as a complete unit, *outside of the press*... drop the primer stem down into the bushing, then put the spring on and press the stem collapsed with the base and thread the 2 things together... you could even put small flats on both sides of the stem to allow tightening and a drop of light loctite would hold it. As an alternate method, you could make the stem without threads, and a longer shaft and drill the lower bushing all the way through, then drill a side hole for a set screw... this may allow for some adjustment if needed. Once this unit is assembled, drop it into the hole in the press form the top and tighten the primer bushing just like you did before. The fix is in making the primer punch larger and self centering. Also, this could be enhanced by floating the primer punch on a steel ball so that the cam that pushes the punch upward doesn't rock the punch, which it does today when it cams over. Anyway, there are 2 issues with a 1050.. a) primer pickup, easily fixed with alignment of the primer tube and keeping the rubber in good shape on the primer bar crushed primers, mostly fixed with precise alignment and a matched set of parts..... really hard to predict if you'll get or not in your build, or perhaps through my new assembly above... I can't see how my new approach would be worse and based upon how my press crushed primers, it could only help... Let me know what you think, Alan

Remember a Cmore mounted on it's side will *always* have a twisting motion to it's flex... it has to because the hinges are 90 degrees to the recoil movement and the slide movement, the comp is designed to flatten of of that, but it won't stop the slides inertia (or shouldn't - actually, to get technical, it will slow it slightly if it's designed right due to the downward pressure on the barrel at unlock, etc. But either way, I'm still not convinced that a 90 (and it's all I've been shooting) is the way to go due to that hinge on the CMore... If only I could get the sideways dot distance above the bore, and and over the top mount, with out other compromises.... Darn it Alan

Yes, I ordered a second one, along with a few other parts related to the priming function and it was the same as the one in the press. Alan

Welcome to the club... See my thread on this topic... I've got mine pretty much figured out, it took a number of small things to get it where it needs to be... ... while I have an Autodrive, there is simply *NO* way I'd let it run my 1050.... I may retro mine to my casepro, but never, never, never, ever, will *I* put an autodrive on a 1050.... Just me I'm sure, but way too risky for a bunch of reasons. found the link for you.... http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136328&view=findpost&p=1533513 Alan

In my opinion, having a *large* dot is a crutch... It helps new open shooters see the *glare* in the glass to know which way to *wiggle* the gun to find the dot. A better solution would be a dot appropriate for the use (4 or 6 moa) and practice to get the index right. When I shoot close up classifiers or bill drills, I usually turn the dot off and just work on index shooting. Get the index correct and it's much easier to find the dot. The problem I have with a 12 moa dot is that it completely covers small plates when you shoot them. I like to turn my dot down in brightness, use a 6moa dot and have a distinct difference between what I'm shooting and what the dot is doing. Also I suspect you like the larger dot because you are driving the dot, not getting your eyes to the next target, focusing on the POI, and waiting for the dot to arrive at that point to break the shot. There is a distinct difference. But shooting open is just like open guns themselves, there are a million varieties and for those there are a million different approaches to shooting... Just my .02, Alan

This is a subtle difference, but you *must* learn it... DO NOT *push* the dot to the desired point of impact watching the dot the entire way.... DO *pull* the dot to the desired point of impact watching the point of impact and bring the dot to it. The best way to practice this... 2 targets at 45 degrees to the shooter and 10-15yrds away. Start at low ready (you can go to a draw start later), snap your eyes to the target, focus on where you want the hits, now bring the dot to that point, but don't look away for where you want the hits, once the dot arrives... pull the trigger 2 times. Now snap your head/eyes to the second target, focus on the point of impact, bring the dot to it... pull the trigger 2 times - repeat. For added credit... *don't* become a double tapper. focus on the desired POI, break the first shot, continue to focus on the POI, watch the dot come back to that POI and break the second shot when the dot is at the POI for the second shot. Start slow to get the feel for the dot movement, then work to quicken up the timing... but remember NO double taps, you want to see the dot on the second shot. Is there a place for double taps... yes, IMHO, it's when you are shooting index only shots and you are close enough that you might as well turn the dot off... Sometimes I think the dot is *way* overated ... Good luck! Alan

Sean, seems you always come to my rescue... .. Thanks - from a fellow Rudy team member... Ya, I suppose I should take my #4 140mm mag and see how it compares in both felt pressure while in the mag and unsprung length to my other 140's (seeing as it never gets used)... I've never ran the 13 coils in the 140's... Always the 11's and had good luck. I'm not having any problems today and I never leave rounds in the mags after a match, only all the time during. I would only consider changing the springs, the followers are in great shape and yes are all tuned for no lock back, etc. I just didn't know if a spring change may blow the tuning on a mag.. I would hope not, but you never know, this all seems like black art to me... this mag stuff... Thanks again, Alan

I've got a full set of SVI mags for 9Major that run 100%, but they are a little over a year old on the springs that are in them. They are SVI tubes, Bolen bases, and Grams springs The 170 is a 3mm base with 13 coil spring, the 140's are 4mm bases with 11 coil springs. I think I'd like to change the springs in the offseason. Will that effect the tuning? Or can I just replace the springs, put them back together, load a full load of dummy rounds and let them set overnight... and be done with it. Any help appreciated? (watch, I'm sure I'll get the - oh, just send them to me, I'll fix them right up and send them back - not!... lol) Alan

Most modify the thumbrest so that the slide stop can come out... as to the racking lever... mine is ball detented just for the reason, it never leaves the gun until I need to remove the slide, then I just pull it out ... others that I know just use blue loctite and re-do it each time. Alan

Umm... not sure I agree with that... I suppose I should post some pictures of some brass that was shot in an unsupported barrel. They are what is referred to a guppie bellied brass and *most* dies won't get down far enough to remove the last ring... Put that in a competition barrel and you are asking for either the brass to get stuck (had it happen more than once) and/or, you won't get the slide into battery and then you are stuck, can't get the brass out, can't get the brass in. The advantage of the *U* die is that not only is it a few .001 smaller in diameter, the carbide insert in it is closer to the base of the die and it allows the die to travel further down the brass. I've never heard the "get more rounds in the gun" thing, in fact, I doubt that would actually work... 20 rounds at .001 is .02 of an inch improvement... Not sure that would offer much in bullet capacity... Better to just have the mag tuned if that it what you are after... While this is a much more prevalent issue with .40, it happens with 9mm all the time too.... For me, personally, I roll size all my 9mm and .40 brass, and then just use a regular sizing die... at the moment dillon, but I think I'm going to change to a Lee... I have a different issue with the dillon that I need to verify. Alan

You might be better off with 121 IFP's with AC... pushing a 115 with it may be a wicked nasty pressured load. I'd be more inclined to try HS-6, Silhouette, or one of the other slower powders (see hodgdons recently updated burn rate chart which shows where AC fits in the mix). I'd be very careful with AC.... start low and watch the primers if they start to flatten or the velocity stops, *DON'T GO ANY HIGHER*, you're just asking for problems. Alan

FYI, I had a set of SV tubes that would not drop for 2 different STI plastic grips... I talked to Brandon at SV, he said send me the lower, and the grips and I'll fix them... He sent me back all my mags tweaked so they drop free from any STI that I put them - for free... Now mind you these were new SVI mag tubes (prior to the new-new ones)... But SV really is a class act with their products and their support.... Even it they were cross bred in use with my STI frame/grip... YMMV, Alan

As an FYI both of my *regular - B sized* grips cracked. And from talking with STI, it seems even they acknowledge that the original design had a very thin web, right in a place where they needed more material. I'm sure they will remedy this... But even SV doesn't offer an aluminum grip any longer, only steel... Alan SV still lists the aluminum grip on their website... http://sviguns.com/1101.php?indx=10 Well, there ya go, I had heard they discontinued it as well, but perhaps I'm wrong... Alan

Kevins info below is the most accurate.

Did I miss something, He said a Glock 17... I don't think Glock Mags are setup to run OAL's as long as 1911/2011 type mag/mechanisms are... If it's not short cycling, and you are extracting, but not ejecting, I would say more than likely it's an ejector issue, in 2011 type guns there are about a million ways to tune an ejector... In a 9Major gun with a scope above the ejection port, there is only one that will work ... Alan

As an FYI both of my *regular - B sized* grips cracked. And from talking with STI, it seems even they acknowledge that the original design had a very thin web, right in a place where they needed more material. I'm sure they will remedy this... But even SV doesn't offer an aluminum grip any longer, only steel... Alan

Sorry, I should have been more specific... a "flip box" is just those plastic 100 round boxes with a flip up lid... The ones that you can see through work well for the last dual purpose that I posted... any .40 box will do the sorting function... hehe and we'll see how much I actually end up with... was more than I thought after sorting a large quantity last night Alan