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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

chainsaw

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    south texas
  • Interests
    reloading, shooting, hunting, fishing,woodworking...more.
  • Real Name
    john black

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  1. will do. thanks!! just wanted to make sure BEFORE I took out the bolt that nothing would misalign etc. so its a simple out and in? thanks again!
  2. damn thing (part 13685 1/4-20x5/8 BHCS) keeps loosening up and I have to dig out the old allen wrench and tighten it up every 50 rds or so. I can feel it in the handle when its loose. i'm tempted to just unscrew it and then locktite the threads where it goes in to part #11061 Crankshaft but i'm not sure if pulling it out all the way will misalign the bearings etc it passes through, or cause other problems too. any help on this is really appreciated. thanks
  3. still getting the clunking in my 1050. soon as i tighten up bolt #13685 it goes away, for a few rounds. i want to completely remove it and add locktite to the threads b4 reinstalling. question is....since it goes into part #11061 (according to my exploded view), will removing it cause the bearings to shift out of position or will it go right back in no problem. thanks
  4. well it was actually a metal work bench. the scrubbing took place on the tubes themselves. not a big deal, just wondered what was on the tubes.
  5. thats definantely gonna be the way i do it next time!
  6. got tired of an occassional primer sticking in the PU tubes and Dillon told me it was because i am using CCI primers because lately the QC of em suks due to increased demand/production etc etc etc told him they were 10 yrs old and boom....silence. looked down the tubes and were dirty. took off the green plastic ends, grabbed a can a carb cleaner w/the straw on it, inserted the straw past the cotter pin holder, and sprayed. cleaned out 5 that way and propped em up so the crap would run out. next day there was dried pink sludge on the ends on the tubes and table they rested on. had to get steel wool to get it off. WHATS THE PINK STUFF?? BTW...the inside of the tubes are clean and the primers RUSH down the tubes to enter the 1050 primer holder instead of clicky clacky'n down. don't ya just love technical terms?
  7. i think thats where i am at now. but i would rather just remove the damn thing.
  8. well, my 1050 is backed up pretty close to the wall and wiggle room is limited so i guess its gonna be tite but i'll get it off iffen i have to cut it off. hate the damn thing.
  9. No, they have nothing to do with each other. so i can just remove the ratchet assembly entirely? at a casual glance it looks like the ratchet assembly actually activates the primer slide. i guess i need to take a hard look at how to remove it. i have already (using the adj. screw) deactivated it (adj. it out of use). how involved is it to entirely remove? thanks and yes, i LOVE this machine. everyone but one guy says they wish they hadda replaced their 650 w/their 1050 years ago. if i wasn't fixing to retire i'd buy another!
  10. on an SUPER 1050, doesn't the ratchet assembly interact w/the primer feed assembly?
  11. email sent. says no PMs accepted. thanks
  12. we don't do stupid here either, but you showed up anyway!
  13. myself, and i think some others, would like to see dillon and or enos chiming in on this bearing issue. if it means taking the machine apart and installing an oversize (correct size actually) bearing then so be it but we need the size or part # etc of the correct bearing. if its NOT a bearing problem, then whatever it is has a common theme and needs to be fixed. but the silence from said partys is deafening. damn, i shoulda been a drama writer.
  14. hey guy. where you at?

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