bubbadoc

Thought about the GT20 but think I will pass. Now if the 227 is chambered for 10 mm that will be a TOTALLY different choice

If you are not worried about looks you can also use 1 gallon paint cans or cut the top off gallon milk jugs. I have used both for some of the lower volume cartridges that I reload

Wooden dowel rod. I put it in wih no primers added and marked with a sharpie so I can see empty.. Without any weight I have had some slightlu oversized primers hand up in the tube towards the end

Couldn't live without the micrometer powder insert. Inline fab is a good company for sure. Only other item to mention is clealiness. I keep a can of air around to get rid of any shavings or powder that shows up. I will pull the primer shuttle back and spray well there. Issues with binding have been my biggest problem...

I always have thought that it is files to really remove metal. Stones to remove a little but more polishing smoothing. Lapping compound can be used to get the final burrs off, especially in areas you have issues reaching evenly (so you can apply and rub the parts across each other). I also will use lapping compound on a rag and use on small parts to get rid of small imperfections and generally smooth.

Nice work...!!!!

I have a PPS for carry and a P99 for a bedside/ car gun. Love both of them and they have always gone boom and shot well. I was looking at the newer Walther releases at the last couple of gun shows and do not think they will work for me, I can handle the paddle style mag release on the trigger guard but would prefer a 'American normal' release button. On the new styles with the release moved I do not have enough real estate to keep from hitting the release. Don't know if that is because I have mitts for hands or if that will affect lots of folks. A real shame as the guns feel great in my hand otherwise.

I have used the ones from TJs Custom (tjscustomgunworks.com). Can't remember where I get them, but pretty sure it was one of the big name retailers that I just put some in with my order occasionally. In fact, I just installed one today in an older P14 and that removal/ replacement almost lowered trigger pull 3/4 lb...

The rail mounted weight/ compensator is interesting to say the least.

Most will go with a flat, so unless you have a preference go that way to start. I have big hands (XXL gloves) and the arched MSH helps to fill the grip for me so that is mypersonal first choice Very few folks seem to use the wedge, in fact, as I sit here I can only think of Wilson peddling them. If it was popular there would be more makers. I had one on a used 1911 that I bought and quickly replaced it due to grip feel.

Because of the cost I have always prefered having two different guns (cost is figured having a real gunsmith do the work and not me). Plus if you get tired of one caliber you can sell the whole gun adn still have a gun left to shoot. WIth two slides it is all or nothing The idea of only having one grip, safety and trigger to get used to is rather appealing for competition and for those that cannot get a lot of trigger time in at the range....

I have tried it but cannot get it to help/ feel right. THought with the oven mitt hands I have it would work but it losens the grip allowing an up and down movement to the pistol.. thus stringing shows up for me on target

I got mine from Oakhill off of Gunbroker about 10 weeks ago, Extremely happy with both Oakhill and the Accushadow.

jmorris as always, you continue to amaze and inspire... thanks for sharing your great ideas

leas327 - great idea. Thanks !

Thanks for the response. I took the one msh that was close and foled off the top of the rails so it would fit. Problem now is the hole is not aligned. Guess I may need to get a msh without a hole drilled and do that ( i.e. My holes may be not quite right... Arghhhhhh)

I was a little surprised recently when. I went to change the MSH on my P14 from a flat to an arched version, I had 5 different 1911 mshs from various vendors and none of them fit. I was always under the impression that part was generally the same. The strange thing to me was that I could not even start 3 of the msh into the slot while 2 others would almost slide into place. Looking at several online vendors shows that some do not carry Para wide body specific msh whicks adds to my confusion.... Oh well, live and learn

I forsee a lot of dry fire with it and was happy with my adjustment in under 200 rouns. I do try to use Federals since I have several target/ range only pistols. Federals are still scarce around here though...

I like it. THE END... Ok, maybe a little more. Got mine earlier in the month from Oakhill and finally got it to the range yesterday, No pics as the targets were not picture worthy (shooter not pistol). Feels great in the hand although with my big oven mitts I will end up getting some thicker grips soon. My groups were bigger than I wanted at 15 yds due to too much coffee before I found out I would be able to make the range and just my issues with the DA/ SA trigger (I mostly shoot 1911s) After 180 rounds I had cut my 10 round groups size in half and moved the groups almost on target.... as I sit here breakign it down I will put a little more 'blame' on the mismatch between my hand size and the thin grips.... but that can be overcome. I had 4 light primer strikes with SB 115 gr hardball but they went boom with a follow up DA stroke. Long term I will be running 90%+ reloads so do not see an issue. I just like to have initial breakin with factory ammo. Overall pleased, happy, content with it...

Thanks Cha-Lee

Thanks Cha-Lee. I was leaning that way but wanted to see if the symptoms also were indicative of some other issue. The fact the hammer can be manually moved further back (after teh slide has been cycled) and allow hammer drop when the trigger is pulled makes me think there is a misfit in the hammer but I am not a master of Tangfolios...

I picked up a used/ worked over Limited Pro in the last month. It had been converted to SAO with a CZ trigger and a different hammer and sear to get the pull down to about 2.5 lbs. Got it to the range today and started having issues at round 4. Figured it was due ot the overtravvel screw as I did not have a small Allen with me I put it in the bag after 8 rounds when it would not fire. (I backed out the overtravel screw with no help). Basically it appears that when the slide cycles it does not take the hammer back far enough. In dry firing now I can hand cycle the slide and get a longer than normal trigger movement and no hammer drop. If I hand cock the hammer I get a nice light pull and good drop. If I cycle the slide I can slightly move the hammer back and get drop. So before I start adjusting/ buying parts what should I look at, hammer, sear or ???? Thanks in advance

Great shooting and great share of drop, hold and trigger control.... thanks

and either are a lot of fun to shoot at that low powder level.... no reason to flinch, no stress on elbows or wrists (said the slightly older guy(

What do you call a steer with 2 legs? Lean beef.... What do you call a steer with no legs? Ground beef