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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About milanuk

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    Sees Target
  • Birthday 07/26/1973

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    Wenatchee, WA
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    Team USA F/TR
    Team Savage
  • Real Name
    Monte Milanuk

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  1. milanuk

    SB vs FL

    ...until you have to F/L size again. Neck only is fairly old school. Most (if not all) upper tier competitive bolt gun shooters F/L size every time, and probably a majority use a neck expander mandrel of some sort. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  2. milanuk

    SB vs FL

    As with most things... it depends. Normally a regular F/L die should be the go-to choice, but occasionally, depending on the chamber dimensions, you may find that you still have a sticky bolt even though you have bumped the shoulder more than enough. More often than not (in experience) that's a sign of the case web needing a little more squeeze. The other thing that may require a SB die (or a specialty 'ring' die) is when you take a batch of brass from one barrel and re-use them in a new one. Even if you had it chambered by the same 'smith with the same reamer... sometimes there is a difference in runout from one set up to the next. Or maybe the reamer got re-ground. Maybe there shouldn't be... but that's not the world we (or at least *I*) live in. One chamber may have had a "fat" back end, or the other way around. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  3. My experience with "100% processed" brass has been... that it wasn't. Not even close. I pretty much ended up completely re-processing it myself; about the only step I don't end up re-doing is cleaning. They usually get that much right... usually.
  4. 25 might be a bit warm for a starting load. IIRC from earlier endeavors to duplicate BH 75 match ammo, 24-24.5 was more the norm. Pulled down some factory rounds at the time... they had 24.2-24.3 of what looked like Tac... and a $hit load of neck tension; one might almost call it a light to medium crimp. We tried up to 25.5 with poor results - crap velocity, damaged rims, etc. Backed off to 24.2, and started playing with a taper crimp die... everything just tightened right up. Personally I'd start at 23.5 and work up 0.2 gn at a time, and then adjust the neck tension and/or crimp. Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk
  5. Does anyone have any pics / video of a Dillon modified/short tool head for .300BO in action? Pics of the modified chip manifold as well? Thanks!
  6. Have you managed to use the lock ring on the bottom (on a 550) without damaging the indexer? What am I missing? Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk
  7. This is about all the room I have... Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  8. Tried that. The nut hit on the index star, and irreparably damaged it. [emoji25]
  9. Do tell... Just did a batch (few hundred) with the 4-flute bit and I noticed that I'm getting a bit of swarf down inside the case... almost like the fan on the 1617 EVS is blowing so much its overpowering the 1.25" vac port. Then again, I don't have much of an ejection path for the chips to begin with... Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  10. Tell em to get after it! [emoji12] I'd be all over one of those like a fat kid on a donut! [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  11. If you're priming on press... probably not. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  12. Yes... to degree. The problem is applying the stuff consistently, case after case, time after time. The stupid ceramic beads get more on the outside of the case than in, and using a bore mop is only marginally better. It's about like copy machine toner, if you ever had the misfortune of being around that stuff when spilled - gets into/onto everything, and it's a PITA to get out of anything. Miserable stuff. Used it for years. Then people started moving away from wet tumbling, part of which was the occasional click-no-bang, or else a really low shot, usually due to traces of moisture that got missed during the drying process when trying to turn a set of match cases around when going from tournament A to tournament B. But part of it was the mindset of "why go to all the effort to get the carbon *out* of the cases, only to have to jump thru hoops to put it *back*?!?". Why not save ourselves a whole lot of time and trouble and skip the whole thing altogether? Shiny cases don't shoot demonstrably better... so why wet tumble? Don't get me wrong... there are some very good F-class shooters who wet tumble. They have a process worked out, and it works for them. But an increasing number of shooters are back to dry tumbling - or just wiping the cases off and calling it good. They might be brushing the insides of the necks to knock loose the crusty bits, but that's about it. It's about what works better in terms of consistency in seating force, and vertical on the target at distance. I fully understand that brass for PRS guns can get a lot dirtier than other LR precision sports, so there may be a valid argument for tumbling of some sort. If you have a system that works for you, stick with it til it doesn't. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  13. I saw that! Not available until July-ish, it sounds like. I also saw a post in another forum where someone looked at it, looked at their APP, and realized that it's literally the same handle bars as the press comes with... just swapped from left to right, with the roller bar in between. Made their own... Which got me to wondering... if a person could finagle *two* of the angled handles somehow, or make their own off-set ones, it might be possible to clear a press-mounted trimmer
  14. Has anyone here paired this with a Lee Universal Case Feeder, and/or the Lee Case Collator? Specifically interested in decapping and swaging .223 / 5.56... I just don't shoot enough to justify adding a 1050 to the bench. Actually, if they hadn't made the handle that dang 'Y' yoke style... this thing paired with a case feeder and an RT1200/1500 would be pretty sweet!
  15. Where are you guys seeing that about the smaller trimmer in development from Mk 7? Sounds intriguing! I've got a HB w/ the Bosch 1617 motor... and in my unqualified opinion, a 2.25 HP motor is gross overkill for regular trimming. I realize they (HB) is probably looking at it from the point of commercial ops and/or forming 300BO... but for 'regular' work, I think a Bosch Colt or similar 1-1.25 hp 'trim' router would do just fine. Sadly, they aren't a *whole* lot cheaper (the motors), but they are a lot *smaller* on top of the tool head.
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