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milanuk

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About milanuk

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  • Birthday 07/26/1973

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    Wenatchee, WA
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    Team USA F/TR
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  • Real Name
    Monte Milanuk

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  1. In theory, you can put the lock nut on the bottom side of the tool head - it works as a jam nut just as well there as on top. Just be very, very careful and do a couple test runs with just that part going full stroke before you get everything *else* set up. The reason I say this is that multiple people recommended that I do that... and apparently on a 550 there isn't enough room and the nut hits the fingers of the manual indexer. Probably *not* an issue on a 650/750, but still, go slowly and make sure before you damage something like I did. I opted to go without the jack nut, sp
  2. Digital calipers will work just fine for measuring the necks. They might not be 'perfect', but unless you're turning case necks and checking measurements to the ten-thousandth, they're 'good enough'. Just be careful (and not totally ham-fisted) when using them. I generally rely on a good set of Mitutoyo Digimatic calipers, but in a pinch cheaper ones will work as well. use the thin blade portion of the jaw, and be conscious of having the tool as close to perpendicular to the surface as possible. If necessary, take a few different reads - the smallest one is probably the right one, where t
  3. At those prices, I'll stick with the SB die for now. I'm not shooting *that* much... but it's an interesting option for sure [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  4. Interesting... not sure I need it, but I might look into it anyway [emoji16] Sounds almost like it is hitting the same area that a small base die does, or a ring die (even lower, pretty much all the way to the groove). Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  5. I'm not familiar with roll sizing... I thought that was a handgun ammo thing? What part of the case is it hitting that makes the brass go through the Giraud better? Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  6. Ick. Get a Giraud. Run them all thru, if they get trimmed, great. If not, no problem. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  7. Depends if it's blaster ammo, or something I intend to use for 'precision' stuff. I'd say it's generally good practice to keep it sorted by firings, head stamp, (lot # if you can) etc.... but for blaster ammo, you'll probably never be able to tell the difference in practical terms. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  8. milanuk

    Es/sd

    FTFY On a more serious note, while I do actually agree with you in a technical sense... running samples of >30 for each and every load increment does *not* make any kind of sense for people living in the real world. For that matter... for someone like the OP, loading 55gn FMJ ammo for a .223 / 5.56... don't even worry about it. Really really. By the time you shoot that load far enough for the ES/SD to actually matter... that load is already sucking balls in the wind, general accuracy, etc. Shoot it within its reasonable limits - I'd say 300yds, others might stretch t
  9. It's a scale. Other than the ability to 'talk' to another device i.e. AutoTrickler, etc. there isn't much else *for* it to do. Some of this type of scale sometimes have counting functions - where you can weigh an individual item, and then a pile of them and it'll tell you how many are in said pile... but bullets/brass tend to be a bit too heavy and/or bulky for the scale's available range, and powder kernels too small/light, so... Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  10. About the only 'intense' feature worth worrying about is pairing it with an AutoTrickler and AutoThrower [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  11. ...until you have to F/L size again. Neck only is fairly old school. Most (if not all) upper tier competitive bolt gun shooters F/L size every time, and probably a majority use a neck expander mandrel of some sort. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  12. As with most things... it depends. Normally a regular F/L die should be the go-to choice, but occasionally, depending on the chamber dimensions, you may find that you still have a sticky bolt even though you have bumped the shoulder more than enough. More often than not (in experience) that's a sign of the case web needing a little more squeeze. The other thing that may require a SB die (or a specialty 'ring' die) is when you take a batch of brass from one barrel and re-use them in a new one. Even if you had it chambered by the same 'smith with the same reamer... sometimes there is a differ
  13. My experience with "100% processed" brass has been... that it wasn't. Not even close. I pretty much ended up completely re-processing it myself; about the only step I don't end up re-doing is cleaning. They usually get that much right... usually.
  14. 25 might be a bit warm for a starting load. IIRC from earlier endeavors to duplicate BH 75 match ammo, 24-24.5 was more the norm. Pulled down some factory rounds at the time... they had 24.2-24.3 of what looked like Tac... and a $hit load of neck tension; one might almost call it a light to medium crimp. We tried up to 25.5 with poor results - crap velocity, damaged rims, etc. Backed off to 24.2, and started playing with a taper crimp die... everything just tightened right up. Personally I'd start at 23.5 and work up 0.2 gn at a time, and then adjust the neck tension and/or crimp. Sent
  15. Does anyone have any pics / video of a Dillon modified/short tool head for .300BO in action? Pics of the modified chip manifold as well? Thanks!
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