Bear1142

My thoughts exactly

Matt, I would tell you all about the benefits of the VFG, but I have a rule about helping people beat my ass even worse than they currently are! Kurt, I've got it right here. I'll bring it to Mississippi this year. Erik

Erik Warren- Homer Simpson mode- "Dooah", Man I thought we were tight and you go and do me like that! My bad, I didn't mean to get my back in the way of your knife! Ronnie- For the right price! It's actually being completely overhauled as we speak. I'll keep it as a backup until this one is tested and ready to run. Religious Shooter- No, not at all. The center notch on the rear sight wasn't changed so the front/rear relationship is the same as any other Bomar setup. Even without the FO front sight, I don't think you'll have any confusion issues. You can feel when the gun is out of alignment if the front sight goes to the outside of the rear ears. This setup has helped my transitions immensely. It allows me to see the next target earlier as the rear blade doesn't block my peripheral vision. Erik

Tupperware, I didn't know you had the pimped-out grip. Very nice. Erik

Time to jump in... Matt, Most of the "Top" guys use the 20in rifles for two main reasons. First, under the old power factor for minor rifle (160), you had to be very careful with your ammo selection. Many loads would not make the PF. Now that is has been lowered to 150, the carbine length barrels don't have a problem with ammo selection. Second, and the most debated point is, many shooters feel the rifle length gas system is much softer and faster to shoot compared to the shorter carbine gas system. I won't get into the whole issue, but my quick take on the matter is if your running a good compensator, you won't notice the difference. I also think the weight of a 20 vs. 16 has something to do with it being softer. Zak has kinda blended the best of both worlds by having a rifle length gas system with a cut down barrel. This past year I switched to an 18" barrel, but only because I couldn't get the profile I wanted in a stainless steel 16" barrel without paying $500 for it. Taran is also using an 18" barreled setup. His rifle is also made by MSTN. While many people are quick to jump on the "Vertical foregrips are crutches only used by posers" bandwagon, they will definitely improve your shooting, IF you know how to use them properly (most people don't.) To paraphrase Kelly Neal, I hope all my competitors think VFG's are a joke and never use them. Here's a well worn pic of my rifle. I need to take some new ones, I've changed it around a little. Erik

I'm dragging out the Sig 226 and shooting Production. Sat./Sun. Master Team Shooters Paradise squad Erik

zhunter, The actual grip tape is manufactured by EricW (If you didn't already know from this post.) I did the undercut on the grip and the trigger guard. There are several companies that can offer this service, along with many more options. Talk with Jim Shannahan at Advanced Performance Shooting. He specializes in doing this type of work. I can do the grip, if you wan't me to, but I wanted to let you know about some of the other companies out there. PM me if your still interested. Benny, You're much too kind, but I am looking forward to Mississippi and Jeff's match. Erik

Here's my new Limited Gun built by Rusty Kidd. I can't say enough about how happy I am. I did the grip work and the tape (Thanks to Eric W for it). I've got about 500 rounds through it and it's ready for its reliabilty run (1000 rds., no cleaning) before being certified ready for competition. Here's the rundown of major parts. STI long dust cover frame Caspian SS slide, 3 sided cut & lightened, extended front cocking serrations Nowlin Bull barrel (40 S&W) Nowlin Speed demon hammer (with polished sides) Brown Beavertail and Safeties Bomar sights Dawson Fiber optic front sight (.90 width) STI trigger blank (cut short/flat) TNT extend mag button EGW magwell EGW internals and now, for your viewing pleasure... ( I know, the pics suck, but you get the idea) Erik

I broke out the Sig 226 over the holidays and got in a 300 round session. It felt surprising good. Erik

Lucas, Any insights on what changes Leupold is making to the CQT? Erik

I always found it amusing that all the of "high-speed, low drag, operators" demand the use of gross motor skills for every firearm manipulation. Fine motor skill actions are impossible to perform under stress. Funny, isn't hitting the little, tiny magazine button a fine motor skill? Somehow they all manage to do it. Erik

Does anyone have a Browning Gold shotgun configured Bennie Cooley style that reliably cycles the Remington Reduced recoil slugs? I'm looking for regular users of that particular brand with more than 100 rounds of use (not all at one time ) I have some other questions for you. Thanks, Erik

Eric, I would counsel against changing your hand positions for different distances. Find the weakhand position that works best for you and stay with it. Any hard distance you set to change your weakhand position will cause you problems. There will always be a "no-mans land" you'll have to deal with. Say you plan on switching your grip at 250 yards. Will you keep the other hand position at 230? What about 240?, 245? What about a closer, but tougher target? Say a 125 yard head shot? Any yardage marker you pick will always have some middle ground that will cause you to stop and think, and thinking or adjusting will result in slower times and lower scores. Stay with one hand position and practice with it. Some other things to consider. As your shots get tougher, you'll also want to increase the stability of your shooting platform (Kneeling, Prone, Braced on barricade, etc.) You don't want to have two hand positions for each shooting position. You'll end up with so many variations that you'll have no consistency and we all know that consistency, across the board in every thing we do is what wins matches. Erik

BigHamp, I would probably go, but it will depend on which rules format you decide to use. Erik

Alex, What purpose does the last, smaller port near the muzzle serve, other than to add some length? Erik

The gain-twist rifling on the AET barrels has zero effect on recoil. It does reduce the torque of the bullet in the barrel. As the bullet is driven throught the rifling and rotational spin is imparted on the bullet, there is an equal and opposite reaction of the gun wanting to spin around the bullet. This is generally understood as torque. While I'm sure there is a reduction in the effects of torque with a gain twist as opposed to a conventional twist barrel in a laboratory setting, I'm not so sure it's a practical difference. I would heed Benny's advice and practice. Where's our resident rocket scientist? ( Used in the most respectful manner) Detlef, care to chime in? Erik

When you take everything into consideration ( Cost, parts availability, durability, reliability, aftermarket accessories, etc..), I don't think you can beat an 870. Erik

Erik, Like Patrick stated, any company that makes a quick detach suppressor will have their own proprietary mount that accompanies it. Several companies do make suppressors that fit the standard 1/2 x 28 thread, but conventional wisdom states the threads are too fine to maintain a good long term suppressor fit. Even if that doesn't concern you, once you get a suppressor installed on a standard pitch thread, you probably won't want to take it off repeatedly. Bullet strikes inside the baffles of the suppressors from inproperly indexed suppressors are quite common (ask me how I know this). I currently own an Advanced Armament Corp. M-4 2000 quick detach suppressor. I think it's the best on market in every aspect. Their quick detach mount doubles as a very effective flash suppressor when the actual suppressor is not being used. I fully recommend this setup if your interested in suppressors. I think the website is Advanced-Armament.com Erik

Maybe it's because too many people are unwilling to step up, do the right thing, and hold themselves accountable. Erik

That's the same weekend as Area 8. What a crappy choice, I have family in Pa., but I always wanted to go to Montana. Erik

Fomeister, Magnifying the target isn't the problem, it's your peripheral vision just outside the scope that is important. Transitioning from target to target is where you can pick up a lot of time on the up close/hose stages. If you can get a scope that allows you to keep your vision on the same plane looking through the scope and just outside of the scope, you'll appreciate how much faster you can go. There is no perfect 3 gun scope, yet. All have some pros & cons. If trijicon could make the accu-point into a true 1 power and not the 1.25 that it is, it would be a leading contender for the best all around scope (with a slight reticle design change.) Benny, Your right, having another power setting or two would have been real helpful in Reno, but it was the 15 mph cross-wind that was really kicking my ass. Erik

Do I have a say in my name? I kinda like "Sparky" for BJ. Always energetic, never has a bad day. Erik

I consider a "D" akin to a miss and will make it up at every opportunity. Adding another 1/2 sec. for 4 points (for an "A") is a pretty good trade. Erik

Nope, all the mag springs will let this happen. Although they were never designed to prevent this from happening. Erik

I use one in my limited gun (I'm one of the few) and it works for me, but I'm not so sure about the Sig. The diameter of the guide rod is much smaller and shorter. I have some doubts about its ability, but I guess I'll have to spring for it and give it a try. Anybody know where you can get solid guide rods for a Sig 226? Either steel or Tungstun? Erik