RussB

Again, what's wrong with the factory equipped lead screws?

I've taken a couple tours at (the real) Springfield Armory. Believe me when I say that precision firearms were being made before the advent of electricity. It all came down to skill. We were all given a tour of the "Gun Room" and there are thousands of examples of fine craftsmanship. CNC makes more of 'em faster, NOT better!

The first place and the last place I worked had old Monarch EE's. Both had tube-driven power supplies, and those tubes are hard to find and very expensive these days. Me, I really like the Hardinge lathes

Wow, that's a tall motor! The power switch it sure out of the reach of children! (and anyone under 6'6" )

38 Super, Clips from S&W. Brass is Remington nickle-plated. I de-burr each moon clip with a 1/4" round stone. Takes a while but the results are well worth the effort. For my 625 I use Ranch Products moonclips and whatever "dog" brass I have. What can I say except it works

For the record, that's the vertical impact surface, or VIS

22k starting price, then add another 20k in tooling

Skill trumps caliber every time I like a 200 LSWC over 3.8 of Clays for a nice light 45 ACP load

Here's the one's I use. They can be had in sales flyer's for right around $100 http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1983936&PMT4NO=0

What model # is the Blade-Tech holster you guys are using? I have a 5.5" 38 Super 627 and a 5" 625 that I'd like to use with the same holster

Buying a machine and all the tooling you can imagine still won't allow you make good parts. Machining is a learned skill. Before you go and buy any tools, take a course or two. Here in southern New England there are many Trade Schools and all offer some night courses. A great way to get your feet wet. For the record, I've been a Toolmaker for 30+ years

Dehorning, it's not just for bulls anymore

Since my initial order, I've placed two more orders. Both times I had the bullets within a week

My open gun is set @ 1.8 lbs My single stacks (4 of 'em) are set from 2.7 to 3.5 lbs

Define perfect travel. It needs enough pre-travel to reliably reset, and enough over travel to allow the hammer's half-cock notch to clear the sear completely when the hammer's falling. Could the sear be contacting the backside of the nub on the thumb safety, restricting its movement? Does the hammer strut rub the sear spring? Like G-man Bart said, remove the grip safety, then re-assemble the gun without the thumb and grip safeties. Cycle it and pull the trigger. Look what's going on. If it's good, install the thumb safety and try again. I'll bet you see where the binding is. Trying to help, but you gotta do your part too

Seems it's been this way for a good four years. Rekon I'll just do my best with what's available. Thanks for the reply

I was able to edit my post once, as an item sold. Today I wanted to lower the price on the items, and there was no link/tab there for me to edit the initial post. I am indeed logged in. 'sup?

Perhaps you do not understand that the ignition parts you installed require a skilled hand to properly fit them into a 1911. There are really no "drop-in" parts. Sometimes you can get lucky though. There are several things that could be wrong. Star by doing basic function tests at home, and get back with your results. Do all the safety devices function? Does the trigger have adequate pre-travel? over-travel? Is the disconnector moving freely? Sear spring installed correctly? Did you have to finish any of the sear/hammer contact surfaces? Did you need to re-fit the thumb safety?

There are many different types of loctite. Many of the Green one's are for cylindrical parts, with different heat and tolerance specification. One needs to be specific when discussing Loc-Tite products

Thanks. It's the "Swenson" ambi paddle safety from Brownell's. It took lots of fitting to work on the 2011 frame

Here's the slideracker idea I came up with. It's simply a .250" hole drilled through the slide, and is retained with a set screw which locks into a dimpled drilled into the bottom. In hindsight I wish I'd put the .250" hole through to slide more forward, just to clear the scope mount. Live and learn

Avoid the KKK's like the plague they are. I actually threw one in the trash many years ago. They ain't worth their weight in scrap steel!

Nice South Bend! Lookin' good

apl, did you ever get the Tasco back from ABO?

These guys do nice work... http://www.gruntbull.com/