PracticalShooter

I load exactly that, 147 with solo 1000, and I load them around 3.6 3.7 grains of solo 1000. I run production with my xd9 tactical with a 13lb spring and never had a problem. I have probably shot 2000 rounds through the gun now. I started out with 3.5, and went all the way up to 3.9, it all works well, I like to load them @ 3.7 myself, I have another guy in my clud exactly the same gun and press and he loads @ 3.6, hope this helps. 3.5 is below power factor so I just loaded about 50 of them to test them out, as a starting point, I think the best this to do is load 3.5 round 50 or so, chrono them and work your way up from there, better to start on the bottom end, gl

Do you need to run a shock buff?

Just asking what people are running for uspsa single stack in a .40 1911, basically what you are using for your weights on all the springs, thanks

Perhaps you do not understand that the ignition parts you installed require a skilled hand to properly fit them into a 1911. There are really no "drop-in" parts. Sometimes you can get lucky though. There are several things that could be wrong. Star by doing basic function tests at home, and get back with your results. Do all the safety devices function? Does the trigger have adequate pre-travel? over-travel? Is the disconnector moving freely? Sear spring installed correctly? Did you have to finish any of the sear/hammer contact surfaces? Did you need to re-fit the thumb safety? I understand that, this is my third 1911, Every thing works properly, safety devices, trigger has perfect travel, and doesn't bind, disconnector is moving fine, Sear spring is set correctly, I did not have to finish any sear contact surfaces, and yes I refit the grip safety like three times, and I even went out and bought a different one thinking that was the problem, nope all good. I have taken apart many 1911, resprung many more, I have assembled and dissasembled these guns in and out.

Sorry I meant grip safety, or the beavertail.

Checked the trigger safety, thats not the problem, I can fire the gun with it off, and it still jams the trigger back, I can not get it to duplicate the jam, in any dry firing drill. I can mess with it all I want practicing unloaded, racking the slide, hammer back. It only seems to not function properly when I fire a round through it, its buggin me I don't want to send it in I want to find the problem.

I just ended up going with a standard Blade Tech 1911 holster, not the black ice one, I don't know if thats legal or not?

Well first off I bought a brand new Rock Island 1911 GI, save the comments I know its a cheap gun. First thing I did was tear it apart, put a new match hammer, sear, beavertail, full legnth guide rod, and grips and magwell. Went to the range to try this new gun out, well I load a mag, rack the slide and let one loose, right dead center, new round fed, but a problem, my trigger is stuck back??? I cannot pull this trigger forward at all, so I drop the mag, unload the chamber and head home. I got home took it apart and nothing looked odd, once I dropped the mainspring housing the trigger came free allowing me to release the hammer. I checked to make sure everthing was put together correctly, and it was, also checked the trigger and made sure that had enough movement but not too much play in it. Put it all back together and back to the range I went, loaded a mag, rack my slide, and fired 1 round and same thing trigger locked back again, I am baffled now, I do not know where to start, any suggestions would be great, thanks

I am just going to send it into Keith for warranty work, they worked on my PM7 and they did a heck of a good job, it will eat anything now. I will let you know what they do, I just cannot get hardly anything to fire through this gun.

So Randy, in doing this will these seat all the way into the chamber checker? Are you using round nose bullets?

What does the case measure (loaded round) right at the mouth? You want something right around .420" to make sure it'll chamber fully. R, Mine measures .422, and it still will not chamber fully, I measured the factory bullet diameter right above the case and it measures .395, and then I measure my diameter on the reloads in the same place and they measure .400 I know it is a tiny difference, but could that be a factor? I matches winchesters OAL of 1.118 (which seems pretty short) and still sticks a hair above the EGW chamber gauge, but the factory ammo slides right in flush???

If I put the reloaded bullet into the chamber checker backwards, the shell casing sits flush to the top with just the bullet sticking out, but when I put it the correct way in it is sticking out on the top, and I was only loading to an OAL of 1.125

Can you pull you caliper out and tell me what is the diameter of the bullet itself. I use black bullets, and I took my bullet puller and pulled a factory round and the factory round is a little smaller, I was just wondering what you were getting for a measurement?

Well, rounds like the ones I have reloaded or factory rounds will shoot in my PM7 no problem