mpom

AR-15 MUZZLE BRAKE SHOOTOUT #3 It is #12 in that article/test. Mark

Well, maybe Tim at Taccom runs his operation lean but he seems to know his stuff and his customer service is excellent. Mark

Problem is there is talk of Remington going bankrupt. Unless they can refinance and get credit, who knows if they will be around. Mark

Also considering this device as it received a good evaluation in a review of approx 35 comps/muzzlebrakes. Jeremy S wrote it up for "thetruthaboutguns.com" It's reviewed in Test #2 or #3. Mark

Got the scope and compared it to the only other variable I have, a gen 1 PST 1-4. Like the reticle as its cleaner and horse shoe is smaller. Very bright on highest setting, red is visible looking at bright sky. Pretty clear, on par with gen1 PST, told by friend its just a bit less sharp than higher end scopes such as Bushnell Tactical Elite. Adjustment knobs have discernible but soft clicks, but the bands with markings on the knobs are pretty useless as they simply spin around the knobs, held stationary with minimal friction. Guess its meant to be sighted in and capped, using the reticle for poi changes. Hope the markings are correct for 223/556. Have not compared it to the SE or PA but so far am pleased. Shout out to MarkCO who spoke well of this scope. Mark

Have been told the Burris RT6 is daylight bright, will know for sure once it arrives in a few days. Mark

Distributors are shipping the RT6, expecting one from Graf&Sons next week. Hope it's optically as good as the Viper PST 1-4 or it will be on the Exchange... Mark

Unless Jesse had a sex change operation, why is your gender female?

Compare yours to another Matchsaver to rule out a defective holder. If not obviously defective, sounds like either your shotgun is recoiling massively or shell is not positioned correctly. Would push shell forward so matchsaver is clamping the metal shell base, which is slightly larger than the plastic hull. If that does not work, would consider roughing up inside of shell holder to increase friction. I would stipple a strip surrounding the shell, because it works to increase friction. A less permanent option is to glue a thin strip of bicycle inner tube.

Am able to pass the plunk test with 1.140 oal, 147gr Bayou flat nose. Would talk to Apex about the this issue. Mark

Thanks, will do! Mark

Umm, no, not in the same price point, close to twice the price of SE and Atibal. Price point is close to Vortex PST Gen 2, and I would expect quality to be comparable to PST, above the Atibal and SE. Not to derail this thread but is the "gap" where a target would be placed at ranges beyond 200 yards detrimental to accuracy? Am very interested in the Athlon with the 3G reticle, just looking for users input. Mark

You are welcome! Mark

Instead of a file, why not just stone the barrel hood smooth, then polish? Filing it possibly left a rough surface, which might be what is causing the hang up. Sure, a stroke with a file will fix the issue, but wear of the rough surface will eventually shorten the hood and lead to some slop. No wrong answer, but if it was me, I would stone it a bit and try it. Stoning removes less material than a file and leaves a smoother surface. On my apex barrel I filed till it was close, then finished with a stone. Hundreds of rounds later functions fine with live fire, just a hint of tightness when manipulating slide by hand. Basically no change since fitting. Then again, maybe its just my OCD kicking in... Mark

Its probably going to be fine with the set screw tight, but for insurance, if you want an interference fit, you can raise a few burrs on the bottom of the sight by hitting it with a center punch at a couple of locations, say one on each side of the set screw. This will displace metal so that hopefully the sight will have some resistance to moving in the slide. Mark

Good to know, thanks. Same issue, will try it. Mark

How about contacting Strongside Tactical? Nothing to lose and they might know the answer. Mark

They can be, which is why Kroil, or a similar penetrant, is very helpful. Worked for me multiple times with M&Ps and other firearms. Don't forget, traditionally sights are installed right to left, so should be removed the same way, to the right, from the shooter's perspective. A padded vice is really helpful to hold slide when drifting sights, so all force is directed to sight, also reduces chance of slide flying away while convincing sight to move. Would never use a steel punch as it would deform the sight and likely ding the slide should it slip when hit. Guess if all else fails and I had no use for the old sight, I might, with extreme care not to damage the slide. Sights have to be oversized, as tolerances in dovetails are large, so aftermarket manufacturers make sure they will not get returns because the sights start out loose in some slides. Have had good luck with both metal files and various stones when fitting front and rear sights. Diamond files are faster but not absolutely necessary. Mark

Think of your eye as the rear sight on a shotgun. If you are already high with pellets, then consider lowering the butt stock with shims, as raising your eye via a cheek pad will raise your point of impact. Might also move it to left if you are right handed.

Then your def'n has not experienced a well tuned single stage trigger such as a JP, where there is NO perceptible movement, until the gun goes off. Zero takeup. Same for many bolt action rifle triggers. A good 1911 trigger does have takeup, but clearly not all single action triggers do. Am interested in further feedback on the Trigger Tech trigger, as it sounds like a good 1911 trigger, some light takeup and quick reset. What I do not like on the Geislle triggers is the long reset. Mark

Did you buy the set recently? Have not seen that on the website. Mark

Try placing a pencil in the bore, rubber eraser closest to breech face, point up and dry fire. See how much the pencil is smacked up by the striker. Compare this distance to another M&P if you can find one. Mark

Might be a timing issue; the ramp on the trigger bar may not be raising the striker block (round piston like part) enough at the point when sear releases striker. This leads to peening of the groove in the striker. Examine the striker for any deformation due to interferance with the block. Also, see if by installing the original striker block the problem is resolved. A simple solution is to close the loop at the end of trigger bar just a bit, as that delays sear release and allows trigger bar to raise the block a bit more. Of course, it could be something completely different. Curious as to outcome. Mark

I asked that of Dawson rep a few months ago, he said they are after the boss to do that, as many customers are asking for it, but he has other projects he is working on.

As far as the front Dawson sights, file/stone till you can slide it without force half way on, then use drift punch, either the included aluminum one or a heftier brass punch to set silght in middle of slide dovetail. I ground a flat bottom to my brass punch, so more surface area meets the side of sight. The rear sight is trickier. Fitting is no problem but adjusting is a bit tedious. Easy to move more than is wanted with a hammer and punch. No big deal, as long as you know where you want sight to end up in dovetail. I use a micrometer to measure distance from side of slide to side of sight, in a horizontal plane, using the depth gauge bar sticking out of bottom of micrometer, if all that makes sense. Brownell's has a formula for sight adjustment as I think does Dawson as well. Have a MGW sight pusher made for Glocks, does not work well for M&P in my limited trials. Not really needed for the 2 M&Ps I have replaced sights on. Mark