Shadowrider

I can't imagine that it would be difficult at all to make major with .357 Sig since it was designed to duplicate .357 Mag performance. Even the downloaded current factory 125 grain loads make 168 PF, I know you can beat that with handloads. I don't know how pleasurable it would be to shoot in SS though. I do know that unless you already have a ton of brass it would be pretty pricey to run. I'm thinking it's not going to be a very good route to go or it would already be being widely used. Don't think I'm knocking the caliber, I like it really well, I just don't think it's good in competition is all.

Add me to the list. I'm not good enough to beat anybody though, I just shoot for fun. If I ever get the time to actually practice that will change a little. The reason I bought 50 Hearthco clips and had my 686-0 cut was to just work on shooting technique. My 625 illustrated that I wasn't going to get anywhere anytime soon with it, and as soon as I put it in the safe and picked up the L frame I made C class in USPSA. Plus I'm fortunate enough to get to shoot regularly with Bubber who is known to shoot a 6 shot L frame once in awhile and he holds his own with it, so I know it can be done. Just a long way of saying it's not the arrow, it's the indian. You guys do what you want with the rules, I'm still going to shoot and have fun.

I haven't seen that much powder any one place in several years now.

Titanium is a really strange metal. It's not all that hard but it's tough, strong and the fatigue resistance will boggle the mind. In my former occupation (machinist) we made a flex shaft out of a funky Beta C alloy that only one mill in the United States even produced. It was a straight turned shaft with a long undercut on the O.D. with a large radius at each end of the undercut. This shaft replaced a u-joint assembly in a mud motor for directional drilling and when it was assembled it was bent to tune of 1.25 to 3.5 degrees depending on the specific tool. Think of a drive shaft because that's exactly what it was, it revolved in the bent condition so it had those stresses plus the normal stresses involved with a drive shaft. The drillers in the field absolutely loved them because they could run them twice as hard and they lasted twice as long. It was also kind of weird for a lot of the machinists to drill a hole with a .787" drill, then check the hole size and have it measure .784. They were like WTH is going on?

I'm running e3 with 147s which is up there on the burn chart with N310 and Red Dot. I have ran it with 160s and when my 147s are gone I'm going back to them. No issues in Starline brass.

Sounds possible. I wonder if a trip through a case pro would help? I know I've shot some of my .38SC brass at least 5x and I'm not having any issues at all. Running Federal primers and 132-133 PF just like the O/P. I suspect it's this problem or the cylinder needing polished as suggested. Bubber has told me he's shot brass so much the flash hole eroded out so I'm really curious to hear what's causing this.

I have a dueling tree that I'm scheming on how to modify to take it horizontal and make it modular for transport because it's hella heavy. I figure with about a 5 degree forward cant when the plates are on top may well work.

My experience with e3 mirrors Bowenbuilt's exactly. I was looking for some powder to load some 9mm carbine ammo awhile back and saw the ETR when nothing else was available and I didn't want to load up my coveted e3 stash. So I did a ton of googling and from what I saw it looked to be the stuff for 9mm, not as good in the .40 or .45 but I couldn't find one single person that didn't love it in 9mm. I was just about to buy 8lbs of it when I found a jug of Titegroup. I went with that since I can load it in my wife's .380.

Can't ever remember having a dud Winchester primer. That said I use Federal pretty much exclusively for all divisions and calibers just to keep things as simple as I can. But I do have a flat of Winchester as backup. 1) Federal 2) Winchester (only for when you can't get Federal) In that order...

I once got a couple of pounds of Ramshot TAC in a butter bowl. It was from a friend and he's trustworthy. Within a day it was welding itself to the plastic of the bowl. So check the specific plastic material which sounds like has been done and you'll be fine.

Stored between 50 and 90 degrees at 35% humidity they won't go bad in a couple of lifetimes, maybe longer. When you get over 130 degrees it starts changing slowly.

I'm using the small case feed plate too.

After much pontification and discussion, during which I recommended using the one for the 40 cal (purple one?), someone said "turn the orange one around so the little window in the front is in the back." That is what I do on my 650 now and it has worked very well for me. I've tried all of these but the drilled out 9mm. That's probably going to be the best route to take. I'm currently using a .40SW sleeve and it does work. My 650 seems to be uber sensitive to the case feed adjustment and handle speed used. Drops a case too early or not at all. It takes awhile to get it dialed in and it's an extremely fine line. The .38sp turned around backwards didn't work for me because it keeps changing angles from the cases dropping. But once you get it tweaked it runs pretty good, just keep your cadence consistent, but aren't we supposed to be doing that anyway? Edit: O/P another powder to look at, if you can find it, is Alliant e3. It's fast like N310 and Red Dot but not "peaky" like Clays. It's pretty forgiving. Super clean and not temp sensitive either.

I struggled to get out of D class in revo for what seemed like an eternity. I did two things which helped. 1) what others are saying and just shot it like another stage. 2) Get scoring hits! Mikes and no-shoots are killers especially on classifiers, they have to be clean. I dropped to shooting minor and I try to make every shot an alpha, it takes as long as it takes. About 3 matches after doing this I got my C card. I've slowed down shooting somewhat, but fixing to start regular dry fire practice (something I've never done regularly) and pick it back up. My goal is to make B by the end of the year shooting 6 shot minor. Probably a tall order but that's the goal.

Scout that's like unobtanium here is the states. Congrats! If you can find them there that fast, I'm thinking a plane ticket and renting a submarine for the return trip might just be worth it.

^^^ Definitely this!

Good call on the Racemaster. It's the only one that I trust, otherwise I'm with Carmoney. I bought a basically brand new WSM II off of a member here, got it, looked it over, double checked all the shims (they were correct for my gun) and said "Nope". Even with it locked you could draw the gun right out albeit with a little bit more effort than normal. I sold it and bought the DAA. I generally won't lock it after reholstering at the make ready command but I always do if it's a sitting table start or something weird. Not a big deal if you do lock it every time because the lock can be swept off in the normal draw stroke.

The deer must have been a memorable sight at that somber moment. Sorry for your loss.

Anybody tried WST and 147s? I'm suspecting that sargenv is onto the problem being powders that are just too fast for the platform. I have a stash of e3 and titegroup and it sounds like they'll be a no-go whenever I do get a 929. Hoping that WST might work because I have a stash of that too. It'll really suck to have to get the gun, mods, clips, brass AND powder just to shoot revo.

Possum Hollow. Run it pretty fast.

Thanks for the link. I listened to this podcast, the tone is a bit better than Chris Hodgdon's interview last July on the Power Factor Show. Now, assuming that as Mr. Hodgdon states powder begins to fee up in a big way by the end of the year, it will still mean that the lates powder shortage lasted 3 years. That's a long time for a component used by those who are really dedicated their firearms (as opposed to the casual user). I want to bring out one point made by Mr. Hodgdon, this is the commercial users are hogging all the powder. While some of us have been saying this, the industry leaders have not. This is the first time I've heard the industry admit that the shortage is due to commercial accounts having priority over canister users. I think that after the first year that was pretty apparent. We reloaders can stock up 2 or 3 years, but that is only a "scratch in the paint" so to speak of the entire powder market. The vast majority of gun owners don't reload. I'm kinda with you though, it would be nice to get feedback from the industry and it might keep the conspiracy aspect tamped down some.

Powder Valley had all 3 Clays in stock recently and I saw at about that same time that a couple of other places had it. So the plant that makes it is back up and running, so keep your eyes peeled. I doubt we see another 2+ year drought on Clays. Clay Dot is said to be an exact replacement, if I shot Clays I'd be buying either one.

I'd like to have a chat with whomever thought this one up.

A q-tip works perfectly for cleaning the tube. I't like a bore snake. Drench one end with alcohol and send it through using the plastic rod to push it. The dry end mops up the excess, it works like a charm. ETA: It is pretty surprising how much the compound builds up. I do it every couple thousand rounds but then I'm pretty OCD about my reloading.

You need to heat it up for more than a few minutes for the powder to actually heat up. Well it was in the bed of my pickup for a 30 minute drive to the range in ambient temps of 103 to 108 during the drive. My truck thermometer said 105 when I pulled up to the gate. Then in direct sun while I setup the chrono and shooting other loads. Trust me the Oklahoma sun on a 105 degree day is plenty brutal enough.