Hi-Power Jack

Joe, thanks for sharing the ideas - it is a three year old gun, so it has the external extractor, the brass is thrown about six feet away with a pf of 132. The extractor (and the ejector) are both brand new - installed by a competent gunsmith (Jim Garthwaite), and just recently examined by a local gunsmith who says they're both in "new" shape = no problem that he can detect with either the extractor or the ejector. And, I cleaned the extractor after one thousand rounds because of the failures to eject - and again a few days ago - that doesn't SEEM to be the problem - problems started right after I picked the gun up - the first few hundred rounds thru it had an occasional failure to eject (the fired cartridge case remains partially in the chamber, with the new live round behind it). I'm not sure if that's a failure of the extractor or the ejector, or the springs? Or, something else? There is no damage to the extractor or ejector - So, does it sound to you like it's possible that a light recoil spring could cause this type of problem? It sounds like you're saying that you've run light springs without such a problem??? I'm going to try four different weight springs in the next few weeks - but with a 1% malfunction incidence, that is going to consume a thousand rounds of ammo to see if four different springs cause a FTE every hundred rounds, or so. So, I'm real eager to hear if anyone has any other ideas - any other problems that could be causing the problems, or should I start changing springs and firing 250 - 350 rounds thru the gun to see if that "solves the problem"? Thanks for any ideas you might have. Jack

Your last and heaviest load power factors out at 117.5, which is a little light for most things. Most people prefer pf at 132 or higher, unless you're using them for steel shoots (not knocking down steel). Depending on what you want to do with the gun, you might want to explore the possibility of increasing the powder by another 0.2 grains, anyway, and try to get it up to at least 125 pf. (same as factory light loads).

I've been shooting BHP's for 45 years, with stock springs, and with factory ammo - no problems with ejection. Just got a "lower power spring", and bumped my ammo up to 132 pf (147 gr MG, 3.8 gr W231, at 1.13". I use 9mm range brass (just like I do in my STI TruBor; clean the brass the same; run it thru my Dillon Square Deal; chamber check the rounds - just like in my TruBor - not having any problems with the TruBor, just the BHP. Every 50 - 100 rounds, the fired case will be stuck in the chamber (mostly out of the chamber) but in front of the next live round coming up the magazine. I have only about 2,000 rounds thru this new spring - and just cleaned the extractor for the second time. I keep the gun well lubed when firing. Since too strong a spring will cause stovepipes (?), will too weak springs cause the fired cases to get caught up in the line of the new live round? Would I be better off with a slightly stouter spring (I just ordered the diagnostic kit, with four different springs). This problem has persisted for six months with me tinkering with the rounds, etc, and just when I think it is all solved, I'll have another FTE. I've actually got thru one entire match without a FTE, but then the next match (Area 7:((( - I had three (3) FTE's. Any thoughts will be appreciated. If I can't get this fixed, I'll have to buy a Glock:(( Jack

My wife and I asked our primary care physician if she' give us the vaccine for shingles IN APRIL. They've been telling us that it's backordered ... Still waiting to get ours.

I currently use N320 and I'm happy with everything about it but the price. I use Zero 124 FMJ (product #147)the catch with it (N320) besides the price is that since it's an extruded powder I don't get exact dumps everytime. Was hoping to see if the using ball powder gives a more exact dump. I've only been reloading a couple months and have around 4500 rds reloaded and fired w/o a hitch using the N320, and felt comfortable enough to start experimenting a little with different powders and had heard negative comments about WW231, so when the WST was mentioned... I can't compare them - I've shot only the W231 with 115, 125 and 147 gr bullets (and can't believe how great the 147's are - I won't go back to 115 or 125's any time soon). But, since I've read that N320 is "better" I've ordered some, but it's going to be at least a month or two before I'll have the time to try it out and compare it to the W231. But, I don't see anything at all wrong with the W231, yet.

I've never used WST powder, but have been very happy with WW231, for light and heavy bullets. Going to try out N320 next, though - heard it's "better". I'm using 9mm 147 gr MG & Zero bullets.

I reload almost all range brass for my 9mm major TruBor - and it's more accurate than I am:(( or ) (I'm not sure if that's good or bad). No prep - just fill the cases and shoot. It seems to work very well.

What brand primers/brass are you loading? Is it every primer that's seating halfway? Or, just a few?

Take a look at the Kel-Tec P-11. A lot less money, lighter, holds 11 shots. Only problem is the trigger is even worse (?) than the Kahr. But, a good alternative, for me anyway.

Don't go by me - the best way is definitely with a good proper bench and handgun rest or sandbags - but I just turn a 50 gallon plastic barrel over and rest my arms on that:) It keeps me steadier than just standing and shooting.

Why are you "not ready" for OPEN yet? Money? If money is not the obstacle, I'd start out in OPEN. If money is the problem (isn't it always?) - then Production is an excellent place to start. But, if you're NOT READY for OPEN, and you have the money - I'd jump in anyway.

Where, in Italy, are you? What are you shooting (type of gun, course of fire)? Jack

Nice to go to the Dominican Republic - probably the north shore is best. Punta Cana is the current hot spot - reasonable rates and excellent golf/food.

Reducing the size of your target at 25 yards to simulate 75 yards is a great start, but you should also see where your load/gun hit at 75 yards if that's your plan. How much drop at that range depends on your load and how you're sighted in. What kind of gun/caliber/velocity are you using? Jack

8.4 grains HS6 & MG 115 JHP at 1.17" gave me 160 pf out of my TruBor. Jack

I'm not a statistician (and didn't stay in any hotel last night) but I'm not sure that the results of nine shots fired, three at a time, are "statistically accurate". If you had fired 20 shots unoiled and 20 shots oiled, then I'd believe it = but three and three, I remain skeptical. And wouldn't the first shot burn off the oil for the subsequent two shots fired thru the chrono? Jack

I've used thousands of WW primers, small and large pistol, and have never seen a tarnished primer. Jack

I had the identical problem with my Browning Hi-Power that I bought 3-4 years ago. And, I didn't know if it was the gun, the ammo, or ME:(( After having the gun accurized (Bar-Sto barrel, etc), I was getting some very nice 2 1/2" groups (half the original size), so determined it was NOT ME:))) But the gun is still finicky about using heavier bullets, so far, and won't group well with 115 or 124/125 grain bullets - so far, it needs 147 grain bullets, either Zero or MG are fine. Good idea to let someone else shoot it off a bench, but also to try some different loads in it. Good luck. Jack

You didn't mention which powder you're using, or how much of it you're using. If you're loading with standard powders, at low rates, you should be fine (not compressing the powder) - but if you're using bulky powders or going "max" with the powder, you could get into some trouble very quickly, I think. Jack

I use 4.5 of H-38 with a 115 FMJ , that works good in my sons XDM. I put 5.5 of H-38 with a 115 FMJ in my 38 super with a 12 lbs. spring, little to NO recoil. Hope this HELPs........... Glenn Thanks, Glenn, but I'm looking for a "really soft" load - 3.7 gr W231 works real well in my BHP, but it's not accurate - so I'm going to keep bumping it up little by little - hope I don't have to go as high as 4.5 grains to get it accurate. But, we'll see.... Jack

Thanks for the help - made me feel better about my starting point. I loaded some 115 gr Zero fmj behind 3.5grains of WW231 and they just barely ejected (one didn't) - so back to the drawing board, and tried 3.66 grains (don't ask, but that's what ten charges averaged) of ww231. About thirty of them ejected fine, shot very nicely, and averaged 910 fps for a pf of 105, BUT they didn't group at all at 25 yards from a rest - in my gun. But, to be fair, since I've had the BHP rebarreled, it hasn't shot any 115 grains accurately (based on limited experimentation so far) but is accurate with the 147 grain bullets - both Zero and MG. Tomorrow, I'll try the same load with 3.8 grains WW231 and with both the Zero 115 gr fmj and the MG 115 gr JHP's, and report back. The quest goes on...

Be careful - I believe you'll need less powder for the lead bullets to achieve the same velocity as the fmj bullets. Jack

You didn't ask, but as an aside, I can load 100 9mm in about 16 - 20 minutes on a Square Deal (never used a 550).

I have a few boxes of Zero 115 gr FMJ left over, and want to use them for light loads for Steel (not knocking them over, but ringing them). I have some WW231 (HP38) and wondering if anyone has a starting point for grains of WW231 to get about 800 - 900 fps; and at what OAL. My reloading manual doesn't even list 115 grain bullets:(( (Time for a new manual?) (I searched the topic back to April, and didn't see anything about this specific item). If I don't get any help, I will probably start with 3.5 grains WW231 seated to about 1.125" for my Browning Hi-Power. (I've been shooting 147 grains with 3.8 gr WW231 for a 130 pf), but want a lighter load for steel competition next Saturday. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Jack Jack

Just mailed my app in this morning - can't wait. Jack