Hi-Power Jack

It's not quite legitimate, but I use empty cardboard boxes (from the local stores) - they're free, many of them approximate the size of an IPSC target, and they stand on the ground by themselves - I don't have to staple them to anything - Then I burn them when I'm finished with them. And, they hold my shooting supplies as I walk to the range... Not perfect, but pretty close, for me.

Two quick thoughts: 1. Your local reloader might charge you even less if you gave him some used brass. 2. I'd pick it up and store it in coffee containers in your basement - one day you WILL reload, and then you'll kick yourself for losing all that brass.

Seems schuemann gets a vote here. I shoot a Wilson in my Millenium Custom and my GF shoots a Schuemann. I can shoot much tighter groups with her Schuemann however it's one with three poppels. Shoots flat and accurate but loud as H#*@....... No thoughts out there about the Trubor? I have two Tru Bor's and they can shoot more accurately (with MY reloads:(( than any other gun I"ve ever had - except possibly my S & W 686. But, they're both awfully accurate. Not sure I could personally use any more accuracy to any great advantage.

Thanks Gentlemen, I spent last night setting up my 550B for a new load I found in the Speer Manual using 8gr of Blue Dot (wow does that fill the case) behind 124gr plated Rainer. (From the posts I've read I am going to do a bulk order of MG 124's though). Jack, I'm shooting a Sig P226. Before you buy a case of MG 124's you might want to develop an accurate load that makes power factor before you decide which bullet to buy. A three inch group from a Sig at 15 yards is not optimal performance, and you might find that a 147 or a 115 might do better. I'm not sure about 8 gr of Blue Dot, but I know that if you're filling your case for a minor load, that you're going to start running in some problems with powder spilling out of the cases during the reloading process, unless you're diligent to that problem - keep it smooth. Probably find a better powder for what you need. Good luck. Jack

What are you planning on using your gun for? The Dillon Square Deal is what I use, and I can load 200 rounds an hour with it. If you have 4 hours a month, that's all you need for pistol - if you reload for rifle, it won't work. I'm using 3.7 gr WW231 with my MG 147's at 1.13" but I'm trying to use up some 15 year old WW231:)) and then I'll probably switch over to one of the newer better powders - you'll read about them on this forum. I use range brass, and have little trouble if I separate out the military and the S & B's. Good luck.

I can't do it anymore, but when I was 40 years old I used my father's S & W 686 L Frame, with .38 wadcutters and got some 1" groups at 25 yards. Wish I could come close to that now:(( Jack

Looks to me like your handloads are more accurate than the factory loads - factory loads seem to be vertically dispersed - about 6" from top to bottom? that's a lot for 15 yards. What gun are you using? Your handloads seem to be a nice round pattern and 12 of the 15 shots seem to be in a much smaller group (3"?). If those were my handloads, I'd make sure they make minimum power factor, and if they did, I'd adjust my sights and be thankful that my reloads were much more accurate than factory ammo. If they're not making pf, then I'd bump up the powder charge and try that again. Good luck. Jack

Stephen, my only experience is with a Dillon Square Deal (the cheapest Dillon) - if you're planning on using only pistol ammo, I recommend it highly - $350 and you're set. If you're going to reload rifle cartridges, you need a 550 or 650 - but they're a bit more involved - are you handy (mechanically) - because I'm not, so I'm afraid to try a 650. Good luck. Jack

It would be helpful if you told us what bullet you're using and the OAL and whether you're using range brass. Did the original loads (that caused the problem) not drop into the barrel? Did this problem happen more than once or with just one cartridge? Sounds like the cartridge went 90% of the way into the chamber, or did it nosedive and not enter the chamber at all? These would all make a big difference in determining what caused the problem you mentioned. Jack

The biggest problems you can run into as a new reloader: 1. dumping no powder in the case (bullet will get stuck in the barrel and the next shot will ruin your day:(( 2. measuring the powder charge incorrectly - you think you're loading 4.1 grains, and you're actually dumping much more or less 3. having your bullets slammed back into the case during the loading cycle and ending up with shorter OAL. 4. incorrect or inconsistent chrono readings - thinking your ammo is a 130 pf when it is actually a 140 or 120 pf. All the other problems are smaller, and just need some experience. Good luck. Jack

Try higher and lower charges of N320, and try some lighter and heavier bullets - the 115 and 124's were grouping much worse for me at 25 yards than the 147's. Jack

You might want to try a box of it - pf of 146 is a bit stout for minor use. Can you buy one box and chrono it?

I had the same problem with my Browning Hi-Power. Blamed my old eyes:( I thought I could see better at 15 yards than 30 yards, because I could hit anything at 15 yards, but not at 25 yards. But, it turned out the gun was not real accurate with the cheap 115 gr Remington Green Box ammo I was using. Reloads with 147 gr bullets made a huge difference. Now I can hit 3" groups at 25 yards slowly, with my special shooting glasses (not long distance, or reading glasses, but a Rx in between the two).

Did both the 124 gr and 147 gr lead bullets have the same point of impact? Did you have chrono readings on them? Sounds to me like your new load might be travelling much slower than the old loads? If the bullets are hitting significantly lower, that sounds like slower speed / lower Power Factor to me? Jack

You didn't mention how accurate that factory ammo is in Your two guns. In my Browning Hi-Power, I'm getting six inch groups at 25 yards with factory ammo and 3 inch groups with my reloads. That's a big difference, and I figure it costs me $7 - 9/ box.

I tried IDPA and IPSC a few years ago, and too dopey to do both because of the mag changes/cover rulings. In IPSC, just keep running and shooting, and reload anytime you feel like it. If you have ten shots in your gun, and you fire eight, as you're running to the next display, drop the mag and reload while you're running. Otherwise, they're pretty much the same thing. But, I couldn't do both - I kept dropping my mags illegally in IDPA:(( IPSC is More Fun - enjoy it.

Looks like my mistake - I just measured some of my MG 115's and 124's and they also mike out at .353" on my calipers. So, I guess it's my calipers that are off by .002" - I'll keep that in mind for any other measuring I do from now on. Still can't think of a single reason why the rifling marks would be "lopsided" - heavier on one side than the other side of the bullets? Thanks for the input.

Strange situation - just started working up a load for my Browning Hi-Power (Bar-Sto barrel) with 147 gr MG bullets & 3.7 grains WW231 (880 - 910 fps). I found four spent bullets that were not deformed after shooting, and noticed that the rifling grooves on the bullets were deeper on one side of the bullet and almost non-existent on the other side. I can't think of any reason why they would be grooved more on one side than the other? They are accurate (3" 15-shot groups at 25 yards), but I measured them and my calipers show them to measure .353", and I thought they should measure .355 or .356". But, it might be me and my technique or calipers (they're not digital). I also measured some of the unloaded bullets and they were also .353". I sent an e-mail to MG earlier this week and haven't received a response, so I'm looking to see if anyone here has had such an experience, or any insight as to this issue. Just received my second box of 3,000 147 gr MG's and they caliper out at .353" also. I'm going to load up some, and check the velocity and accuracy in the next week. If you have any input, I'd sure like to hear it. Thanks, Jack

I've been load developing for a 9mm and finding for the first time that 5-6 shot groups are not real indicative of the type of accuracy the load is capable of. I've shot a five shot group that was about 1.5 inches, but another 5 shot group will be 2-3 inches. What I've been doing lately is experimenting with 10 - 15 shot groups and usually find a nice consistent group of most of the shots in a small 2-3 inch circle, with one or two flyers enlarging the entire group out to about 4 inches. Seems to me that's a better indication of the real reliability of the gun/ammo than a random five shot group. But, I haven't seen anyone agree with this which surprises me.

If you look under holsters, they list about a dozen, and the BuckMark holster is one of the last ones on the right hand side. Only $40 or so.

It's a custom order, so I'm still waiting for the holster. They said it should be here next week, and I'll write up a review on it then. Can't wait to see it - I didn't really think it would be possible to find a "fast - IPSC style" holster for a BuckMark, so I'm hoping it lives up to expectations.

I've took you advice (lol) and purchased 3k from PD, 124JHP and 147FMJ. Should arrive tomorrow. Stocked up on local primers and powder and am ready to go provided I can figure out the discrepancies in my load velocities compared to published data. I would guess your problem is one of two: 1. your powder measure is off, and you're throwing more powder than you realize - if you check the posts on the same topic from a few days ago, that was another new reloader's problem. Try balancing your scale (or changing the battery) and zeroing the scale, and then throw ten charges onto the pan, and weighing the ten charges - then divide by 10 and see if you are really throwing only 3 grains. 2. your bullets are being set back in the cases during the cycling phase - as they are slammed into the chamber, something is causing them to be seated further back than 1.16". That you can check by cycling a few thru the gun, but not firing them. Take them out and measure the OAL after they have been cycled thru your gun - see if they are shorter than they were when you reloaded them. Good luck.

What gun are you using? Why are you changing from 4 gr to 5 gr, if you're looking for light recoil? The cheapest bullets are the lighter bullets (115 gr) - and they get more expensive the heavier you go - if you can get away with 4 gr, why not just stay there and save some money and some recoil?

There are IPSC matches every Saturday in Melbourne, Titusville, Orlando and Frost Proof. More further north into St Augustine & Jacksonville. Click USPSA under Florida, and they'll all pop up on the screen.