Loves2Shoot

"Was the round a reload? Was it non-jacketed lead?" If you you are S.O.L. Glock says if you shoot lead or reloads, no warrantee. Glad to hear you are ok. As Flex says, good thing Glocks are cheap, if you blow one up, just buy another one, but then agin Flex can blow up S_I's also.

Skywalker, "I mean, the objective reality is the shooter missed." Sorry to say that you are wrong. Unless the shooter knew that that target was applied wrong he would have seen that his hit was on the paper, enough to score, thus in his mind no need for a make-up shot. This is no fault of his own, thus the reshoot. It is unrealistic that the shooter could have know that the hit he saw was on a target behind the target he was trying shoot. I agree that he missed in reality, but in the reality of what he saw during the COF he hit, range failure, reshoot. Turn the guide targets around next time so you see white if you don't properly apply the target.

Hard to judge without an overlay. Round nose 45 might make it with the overlay. Just being nit picky but Wakal said it doesn't break the perf no score. I think he is mistaken. The overlay has to "touch" the perf, and most overlays are a ton bigger than the hole the bullets make. So, without the overlay, I don't have enough visual info to make a call, but if they whined hard enough I would reset the target properly and reshoot due to range failure and let the reshoot gods deall with the shooter.

Here is an example of what I prefer. Note: It is very aggressive. Simple to do: 1. Remove the grip (optional) make sure you do remove the mainspring housing so you don't glue it to the grip. 2. Sand or dremel the grip down smooth. 3. Tape off the areas you do not want to texture 4. Use a quick drying clear auto epoxy (I liked the 5 minute set, but you have to work fast) and a flat small hobby brush (Like BE's dedicated brush for slide glide) to coat the grip with the epoxy. 5. Pour aluminum oxide (or sand blasting type material) of your desired agressiveness/color (note: a more aggressive material with make the grip larger) on the entire grip. Test this process before you try it on your grip, if you don't get enough epoxy on your grip it will have bare spots, too much it make the grip too big. Make sure the grip is well coated. 6. Let the grip sit for a couple of minutes then remove the masking tape and scrape any unwanted texture from the screw holes and wherever else it ended up. 7. Let it cure overnight and there you go. You can get the grit at any sandbloasting supply store (I got mine free, it doesn't take a whole lot to cover the grip) and the epoxy at any auto parts store. The grip pictured is very aggressive, I have a SV Scott Grip and it is well made also, I just didn't have $200 per gun to put them on all of my guns. Good luck ~ L2S

TravisT, I heard the US is going to pay him to be a shooter on the military team. The guy I heard it from knows him pretty well, so I think the info is pretty good.

Nice

How about making a sandpaper grip? It is very cheap/easy and doesn't add the bulk to the grip that stipiling does, and it is very grippy. SVI's "Scott" is the ticket, but if you don't want to pop out $200 you can do it for less than $5 in materials. If you want more info on how to do it e-mail me.

SV gets my vote

I hate noise, I found the Peltor Tactical worked better for me than the Pro ears, but I still double plug.

Looks like that ballet practice is paying off!!!

Wow, I just got done watching the news. Man we flatened those palaces. When will the peace freaks figure out the only way to ensure peace is by being able to deliver massive destruction at will? Too bad PEACE protestors have to hurt our country by making us spend MILLIONS of dollars to protect our rights as US citizens.

Amen to that!

Unless you are shooting a club's "local rules" you can use your standard gear per the USPSA rulebook. If not, you have to cow the local "wacked-ical" rules, and any $5 holtser/pouches should work well enough if they are making everyone be "wacked-ical." Blade techs are good for what they are Uncle Mikes works well too. Practice is the key to speed, not the holster, that is why I find these wanna be "tactical" guys to be wacked-ical wanna-bees. Some guys just change the rules to suit their gear and preferences, that is wacked.

LOL Nobody made the cat do it did they? I'll bet the cat thinks it is fun! I doubt it was his first ride.

BE address this in his book. It depends on you. When I shoot groups I really grip the gun, when I shoot fast easy shots, I have a looser grip. It all depends on you and the shot you are making. I don't think there is a set rule, it is more dynamic.

Sometimes after taking some time off, you focus more. The more the focus, the faster, for me.

If only life were easy.

Dave, Just my 2 cents, but if I want to get better with any I handle and shoot THAT gun as much as I can. This is following the advice of TGO. I am shooting limited but I do use my open gun (about the same balance) to take advantage of using the dot to see how different arms positions effect the overall gun movement, and so I can see the movement of the dot on the draw to make sure I am tracking right. As far as the list of stuff you listed that you need to improve, I think that the key to shooting fast is to see fast. Shooting a revolver is not as fast and if you get used to seeing slow (revlover pace) it might hurt you more than it would help. Smoothness comes from knowing the exact movements you need to make to accomplish a task and doing no more, or no less. Good luck and DVC

"Are there any stage scenarios that are more advantageous to revolver shooters than other divisions?" I can't imagine one, the closest I can come that they are even is draw and 1 shot. After that, the autos have an advantage.

That is my % per USPSA 10/19/02, maybe they reset the hhf or something. I know Max Michel is shooting it in under 3.59 per his website, for a hf of 15.3203. Max's score for the El Pres was 3.59 Sec. with 55 pts. Hit Factor of 15.3203 A break down of the time: Turn Draw: 1.04 Split: .15 Trans.: .21 Split: .13 Trans.: .21 Split: .10 Reload: .95 Split: .13 Trans.: .21 Split: .13 Trans.: .23 Split: .10 Total Time: 3.59 Sec. That is why I was thinking maybe your score was production, or maybe someone down the line put my score in wrong. Just currious. Some of the hf's are freaking high and it seems that 13 is almost the magic number on speed shoots. (Edited by Loves2Shoot at 7:59 am on Mar. 13, 2003)

85% production class? I am pretty sure I shot about a 10.5 hf recently and got 80% L10

Ron, Was that a standing reload (ie Classifier stage)? That seems very slow for a A Class. I know you couldn't make 75% in El' press with a 2 second reload, everything else being A class speed. I know several A class shooter who can't shoot standards in thier class because of weak draws and reloads. I think because the majority of courses are field courses people tend to neglect the draw and reload. I know I generally get really high scores on standards because my draw and reload are pretty solid. But you can definietly get to A without having either an A class draw of reload because of the field courses. Thanks for the info.

G, It's all about the seeing. If your mag changes are 2.5-3 I would start there. It takes alot of visual patience to look, sight, magwell, sight. Make sure you are seeing what you need to see to get the job done. A/B reloads should be 1.5 or less I would think. A lot of A shooters can draw, shoot, reload, shoot in 2 seconds. Target transitions are nothing more than getting your eyes to the next target as quick as you can, the gun will follow. At 7 yards if the targets are side by side, your transitions should be about the same as your splits. If they are not, you are NOT controling your shooting. If your 6 shot string splits are not the same as your 2 shot strings you are not seeing, but double tapping (double tap is one sight picture pull the trigger two times) I would highly recommend breaking that habit ASAP as it will hold you back in the long run. Just my 2 cents.

Mega, Those are really long target transitions for someone with splits of .14 @ 7 yards. My splits may be a bit slower than your smokin .14's, but my transitions on El' pres are about .24-.25 You might want to think about shooting with a little more control and you will increase your overall speed/hits a bunch. Just my 2 cents. G, .1 - .12 splits, that would make Eric G. (the current world champion) envious. He says he only gets those splits 1 in every 30-40 tries on his website. His average is .13-.14 as I recall. Look at this http://www.maxmichel.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7 Max only has average splits of about .13 on el prez and he is one of the best out there. If these guys don't use .1's I doubt it is serving you well.

G, Funny thing I've noticed, there is no reason not to watch your sights, even on targets 3-5 yards. To shoot real fast you have to be focused on something, might as well be your sights right? On real close targets shooting limited the front post never leaves the A zone so my splits are all based on what I see and at 3-5 yards they are about .14-.15, if it is cold out they increase to .17-.18. Funny thing is I can miss a target at 3 feet if I am not focusing on something, preferably my sights.