Loves2Shoot

200's with vv320 the other work to, but are snapier, I like the way the 200's track also.

Relaoding is too easy, especaily is you go with a 650 (or my preference a 1050) that's why you hear horror stories about people who make mondo hot loads and double charges. You have to remember how much "common sense" the average person has. Read all the warning labels we have around these days. There just really isn't much too it. Have someone who knows what they are doing help get you set up, get a good formula for reloads, then leave you toolhead alone and you'll be very happy for years to come. Remember if you get the 650, you need to get a primer filler to (poking those primeres with a pick-up tube is just lame ), calipers, scale, tumbler, and media seperator. After the sticker shock wears off, you will have that increased shooting budget established and the bullets, brass, primers, and powder will seem cheap Have fun and be not afraid.

Not true, many shooters have had good sucess. I've used one for about 70K and it works great, no problems so far. Before that I used a tungsten rod with a 14 lb spring and that worked fine too.

If you slow your splits to .2, .2 transistions are easier. A world class shooter showed me "the trick" and it sure as heck works. On an array like el Prez he said every split should be the same, this is a way to do it fast and get all A's very consistantly. It isn't that hard really either, if you can abandon the "double tap." I think it works because when you see the second shot perfectly, it is easier to get on target, thus taking less time. After about a half a dozen trys I did it and it sure feels slow, but the time is about the same as when I light it up, and the hits are a ton better.

I would chose the Sig because it is easier for me to reload and I like the ergonomics. I would get the one with the steel frame with the light rail. It is positively the softest stock 9mm I've shot. Put some MMC sights on it and you are good to go.

Speed is a by-product how how fast you react to what you see. I find the easiest way to go "fast" is to try to take in as much visual input as you can, then relax and let your body do what needs to be done to hit the target. No more, no less. If you relax and get a lot of visual input you will begin to see where you are wasting movement and losing time. "Trying" is death to speed. Dry fire and learn to watch things that move fast, watch a fan blade spin and stuff like that. The best shooters can see things at an incredible speed.

Nice! It will be really pimp if you hardchrome it and polish to a mirror finish

Go here. http://www.atf.gov/firearms/ or here http://www.atf.gov/firearms/nlc/index.htm

You the man BE! Learning to shoot well has definitely impacted my everyday way of looking at life. Thanks again for everything you share BE, and for making better shooters and people of those around you.

Always bring as much ammo as you are willing to load in your mags. Frank's class was pretty good, and we burned through the ammo. I didn't count, but we were ankle deep in brass for sure.

How? Most all of the smaller sized production guns accept the full sized version's mags. If you want to use a production gun that won't hold 16, play in L10. Let's be intellectually honest here, Glocks, Berretas, Sigs, HK, XD, are the mainstay of production class, if the AWP ban sunsets mags will be back to a decent price and so why would using SUB-STANDARD CAPCITY magazines make any sense on a national level? Sure local clubs in states where the laws are boneheaded should have some latitude to use SUB-STANDARD CAPCITY but to force that on a national level doesn't really make sense. You can always load 10 in a 15 round mag.

They all lock faster than mere mortals can work them. I've been told that the most basic 1911 will cycle in .05 or so (and I believe it from seeing a basic one go full auto from a homeade trigger job.) So, I think all the trick stuff may be fun, but doesn't really make as much a difference. I do know the mainspring makes a noticeable difference and is the cheapest to try I like the 15 but it isn't as reliable so 17's for me.

Hmmm, isn't overall finish the ONLY way to award by performance then? The top finishers performed the best at the match. There is NO "fair" way to handicap people, those who are better finish higher, those who are worse finish lower, that's just the way it is.

I bet you would have the same guys winning a ton of prizes and the lower guys getting jack. Say I get top 3 in 5 stages (which I did and the SV open) then I would get 5 prizes, not that fair I think. I say lower the match fees, people will buy the stuff they want anyway.

Actually, that logic just makes for bigger rulebooks

thanks

Not in Oregon.

where did you get it?

It might be "cute" but it would be a major pain in the ass.

Hardchrome is way better than stainless. It sure is pretty This one has been on gunbroker.com for awhile.

What BE said and do the math. One miss and you could have seen the sight all day long for the first shot. Can you afford a non A hit on 10% of your draws, I can't. If you ace a stage it isn't because of the draw. Do the math. A smoking draw .85 a good draw .95 an average draw 1.25-1.5 or is the .4-.75 that you gain (MAX more likely .3-.5) worth not knowing exactly where the bullet went? I concur with the rest of the guys, a good first shot sets up the rest of the stage.

As long as you load shells into the same magazine that you started out the stage with I think you should be in limited. Otherwise, I'll get to work on builing a removable tube fed magazine. Call a spade a spade right?

Yep, it is part of the game. We bribed them into coming to Bend. It is not uncommon at all in business. When we have large conventions in Bend the Chamber of Commerce does the best it can to help convince local businesses to throw in perks to attract them here. I think it would be irresponsible of USPSA not to expect bribes wherever they hold a major match. When you bring $100k+ of real business into an area that area can afford to kick back a few bucks. I would expect nothing less from a good manager.

I would highly recommend having a gunsmith check it out. I have a friend who know how a gun should be fit and it is worth the time and $ to make sure you aren't getting something you'll regret later. The slide frame to fit is more important on an open gun since the sight is mounted to the frame not the slide. If it moves much at all it could have problems at long distances. Matt Burkett has a list of tips on his website to I think. Good luck and welcome to the "dark side."

Unless you have a SV with the changeable breechface, it's time for a whole new gun