Graham Smith

For anyone else in this market, the bargain of bargains is the Bushnell Elite Tactical DMR 3.5-21x50mm G2 reticle (model ET35215G, not the ERS) If take your time and shop around you can find this scope for as low as $1150

When I was loading 9mm a lot, I used to occasionally crush a case trying to put a bullet into it. It's tough to sort out the .380 from the 9mm, particularly if you are older and your eyes are not quite as sharp. Now that I load .40, my bitch has become 9mm stuck in the .40 cases. If we don't have something to bitch about, we'll find something.

I know a guy who DJ's under the name Deogee.

It seems like every day I see mention of yet another brake. It's impossible to keep up. And I'm also curious why one company feels it necessary to make 5 or 6 different brakes? Certainly they can't all be "the best". That leads me to think that ratings must be highly subjective and can only really be compared for like rifles being used for like types of shooting. I have a pepper pot type comp that I really like for general shooting. It does a decent job and isn't overly loud in comparison to others. But when shooting prone, it kicks up dust like crazy because there are holes all around. I have an old DNTC comp that is great but it's outrageously noisy. I have a Levang comp that doesn't do very much but makes shooting less noisy than with no comp at all. Which is best - well that depends on what I'm doing.

You might want to have a look at one of the 3-12x hunting scopes. Vortex, Bushnell , Weaver, Nikon.

That thing just kind of takes on a life of it's own after a while. It just gets funnier and funnier as it falls apart.

There's a long thread on this in another forum (more than one actually) as it's a common topic. The first thing is to define what you mean by mid-range distance, what your targets are, and what features you want/need. Range can be roughly broken down into 400yd increments (0-400, 400-800, 800+) or into 300yd increments (0-300, 300-600, 600+) which is probably a more practical definition. Target type and size will dictate what kind of power you need. 10x is adequate for 600yd is you are shooting at an IPSC sized target are OK with 2 MOA accuracy. If you need better than that, then you probably need more power. Then there's the question of whether or not you need a ranging reticle, FFP, illumination, and a half dozen other things.

Doesn't really matter that much which reticle you use, but it does matter whether or not the reticle matches the turrets. Traditionally scopes came with Mil reticles and MOA turrets. Most were also SFP scopes. So, really, there was probably going to be some math. Today, you can get an FFP scope with matching reticle and turret. That means that, what you see is what you dial. Shooting a Mil high, just dial in a 1 mil correction. Range card tells you to dial in a 2 mil correction for distance, you can just hold 2 Mils instead. Not comfortable with Mils? Get a scope with MOA reticle and turrets. You also get slightly finer adjustments with 1/4 MOA vs 0.1 Mil

I got the Luth AR for a project rifle that I have not got started on. While the TACMOD looks similar it seems to be quite different in several ways. The most important would seem to be that the Luth AR goes over an existing rifle length tube and buffer whereas the TACMOD contains a custom carbine length tube and requires the corresponding carbine buffer and spring. Because of this difference, there is likely a difference in the OAL available and the price of the TACMOD is correspondingly higher.

I played around with putting a C-More and Jager comp on my G35 and using my regular limited loads with mixed results. If you are going to use a comp then you want a load that will work it and a standard load won't necessarily do that very well. As to .40 minor, it's a treat to shoot. Very smooth, if you get the right load. You can just use a little less powder for minor (I've done it) but you are better off developing a special load.

When you say, "got one of these", what are you referring to? PC software or on some kind of device? As far as I am aware, the device hasn't been made for quite some time and the software may or may not be up to date. Odds are good that it's using some kind of G1 factors. If the results you are getting don't match something else, then odds are they are using a different BC or slightly different computations. If you want to compare it against something current, then you can compare it to the JBM calculator: http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml

The JBM trajectory calculator (not the simplified version) lets you set the vital zone radius and calculate drops for max PBR. Using that, you can find out what your drop is at 50yds and zero using that information. For example, for a SMK 55gr bullet @ 3000fps using a 4" radius vital zone, the Max PBR zero is 262yd. At 50yd the bullets should hit 1.5" from your point of aim so just aim at the bull and measure where you are hitting and adjust. If you increase the radius to 6", then then PBR zero goes to 304yd and the 50yd zero adjusts to 2.1" http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dq6T5BojXc8#t=193

I spent a couple days shooting with one guy with a Rem 700 mil spec shooting factory 175 gr ammo. He was doing OK but struggling some keeping groups down to 2 MOA at 300yd. About half way through the day, he comes back from his car with a suppressor and says he wonders if this will work better, he just got it and hadn't tried it out. He had to adjust his zero a bit but his shooting improved markedly that day. In retrospect, I think that his shooting improved in large part because he was more relaxed. The reduced noise and better recoil control (and a slight change in position) made him much more consistent and reduced any tendency to flinch.

Also bear in mind that bullet selection and loads for a bolt action and a semi-auto .308 are often different, and a suppressor will add to that difference.

It's fairly easy to convert a G17/34 into a Open minor gun. All you really need is something like a dovetail mount C-More, a Dawson magwell, a mag with a Taylor long extension and two or three mags with regular Dawson or Arredondo extensions. You can skip the compensator since it won't really do much with 9mm minor ammo anyway. This setup will fit almost any holster that works with a stock pistol. Open minor is not a bad option since it forces you to be as accurate as you can.

The suppressor and the round do interact and will behave differently, so yes, test it the way you plan on shooting it. Are you going to be shooting subsonic loads?

Nik, Jay said that a speed shoot couldn't be more than 8 rounds since it was shot from a single location/view. That's incorrect. A speed shoot can be up to 16 rounds from one location IF there is a required reload.

A speed shoot is a special type of stage that: a. Can be up to 16 rounds from a single spot (location). b. If it's more than 8 rounds, then a reload is required.

Not correct. A speed shoot is a special type of stage that can consist of up to 16 rounds from a single spot - as long as there is a reload required. That's what started this thread.

Skipping a reload is 1 penalty per shot so it depends on how the reload is specified. If it is specified as "before engaging the last target", then it would be 2 proceduals.

Require is the key word. I cannot make someone stand in one place and shoot 6 targets. But, if I require them to do a reload somewhere between their first and last shot then it's up to them how they divide those 12 shots up. A 6 paper target (12 shot) speed shoot with a reload, lets production, SS, and revolver all divide the targets how it best suits them Note: Specifying somewhere "after engaging the first target and before engaging the last target", just eliminates some odd-ball tricks that might be played.

You can also specify that there has to be a reload after engaging the first target and before engaging the last target. There was a rather lengthy thread on this a couple years ago.

Production or Open? If it's production then I think that it's a bit of an overkill.

If the 3-gun bags aren't long enough, then the Voodoo Tactical 60" bag is probably your best bet. Tac-Ops makes long rifle bags as does Eberlestock but at a higher price point.