MemphisMechanic

Look at it another way; someone who trains standing still until they can average 95% on enough classifers to make GM? That guy would only need to work on entry, exit, and loading/shooting on the move to be really deadly. I’d love to have that little to work on, in order to dominate. And no one is going to totally avoid movement skills while dryfiring static skills like a lunatic. That’s an extreme example.

Congratulations on making my point. So far, every single GM on the summit has stated that they practiced classifers exhaustively while making GM. Vogel. Josh Froelich. (shotgun worldshoot champ and PCC all around badass.) Casey Reed and Mason Lane. (Production winners of all kinds of Area matches, and top 10 Nats guys.) It’s almost like being able to hammer targets fast with exceptional gunhandling is a huge portion of being an actual top level shooter.

As long as you can drop. Dowel down the barrel with gun in battery, rest it on the breechface, and measure it at 16.00”+ then it’s legal. My gun was cut at right around 14-3/8” and it measures 16.250” with the pinned Surefire comp, per the ATF’s testing method. Just to be safe. Check your length with comp installed before drilling it, and exchange it for the long comp if you need extra length.

I personally love how low my Walther has the slide milled for my DPP; when the optic is removed, you’re looking at the top of the firing pin. It makes it effortless to switch between a dot and irons. I had a gun with an MOS style adapter plate setup (Q5 Match) which I shot in CO previously. This setup is vastly superior.

I agree. Since I’m not using it up close. Index, hammer, transition, repeat. (You have more miles on one than I. I’d probably feel differently if I actually did any amount of practice.)

Depends heavily on the classifier. If it’s a superfast close one, irons win out. Of course. Now for something with 10+ yard singlehanded shooting, or partial targets at similar distances... hmm. I shoot CO... I may need to bribe our MD to pick these classifiers in the spring...

@JAFO not all Walthers. Mine will take the fattest 147gr bullet clear out to 1.160” ... but then, it might have something to do with me owning a carbide finishing reamer which can cut hardened barrels. A quick kiss and all is well, without losing any accuracy.

This is also highly bullet profile dependent. A .355” jacketed bullet with a friendly ogive like the Precision Deltas @chenault is running can go to 1.120” or 1.130@ in even the shortest chambers. The same gun will probably need you to push a coated 124gr .356” bullet which has a very fat round nose as far back as 1.090” in order to drop into the barrel and spin freely without catching the rifling.

I wouldn’t pay more than $400 here in TN where I can casually pick up anything any day. Our gun laws are better than Texas. Push for $500 because I bet it’s been sitting there a while... but $525 is fair in your (total sellers) market.

Agreed. Do this first. If it’s small frame, anything that fits that a similar CZ will fit this gun. Definitely. I’d grab this gun for sure if the price is right. One more thing to check; if you plan on night sights make sure to look at how the front sight mounts. A lot of Tanfos don’t have any viable front sight options. Also, these stupid ads are terrible.

You may. I might also add that he’s a double failure because he seems to have an “out to get the shooter” attitude. I assess penalties only when I’m sure it’s warranted, and only where the rulebook says they were earned. “That Guy” seems to have the attitude of a cop with his radar gun out, who needs to make his quota for the day. They’re on the hunt for the tiniest errors to pounce upon. “Well then you’ve been dicking everyone over. Knock it off.”

So you want extra sear cage movement. Right.

Search. @PatriotDefense created a post something like “tuning a bolo for longer DA pull” a tear or more ago, and it works great.

You file the top of the firing pin block down until it clears when the hammer falls, but still bites when you haven’t pulled the trigger. I don’t believe I ever tested mine at half-cock. Just in DA and SA.

In DA the hammer doesn’t fully cock. The bolo has a shorter stroke than a factory disco, but you can remedy that. I did in my gun, and it was a huge help. That said, I’m leading you astray. WIN primers should absolutely fire in that gun if it’s functioning properly. You lead yourself directly to the cause, but didn’t make the final leap. More than likely, your firing pin is contacting the block on it’s way past and losing momentum. Take the block out and go fire dozens and dozens rounds of that same ammo in double action: decock, shoot, repeat. If it works 100%, you’ve isolated the problem... and also proofed your ammo at the same time. I had FPB issues early on, so I shot several practices & local matches without a firing pin block until I got the gun 100% reliable, then finally got an extended FPB fitted correctly on the second try.

If you’re not familiar, you have to be a paid member of Shooters Summit to watch all the videos any time. For free, when it goes live in November? Certain videos are available on certain days. Today is Bob Vogel. https://shooterssummit.com/speaker/robert-vogel/ Skip to 7:00 to get directly to the meat of the talk. Listen to his original training regimen for USPSA. Guys often talk trash about people who set up classifiers and practice them endlessly. But that’s exactly how today’s most dominant shooter got started, and how he made GM without having shot more than a major match or two.

Just install some very tiny setscrews in the frame / rails.

What brand of primer? Define “seating them all the way,” because a flush primer is still a high primer. Just less so than a raised one. A CCI primer can be driven .005” below flush in most brass, and other brands will go deeper. The Bolo causes a very weak double-action strike, the factory disconnector pushes the hammer back further before it falls.

I had a 650 for 6 years Added a mr bulletfeeder for 2 years. Sold 650, went 1050 with bulletfeeder. My opinion? Buy a 1050 at the earliest possible opportunity. Add a bulletfeeder when you can. 1050 has some features people here don’t often tout; I have yet to have a single primer jam / seating problem / high primer in 1,500 rounds. Zero twitches. That’s where all the 650’s hangups are found when dealing with well used 9mm. Now it’s swaged, seated to precisely .004”-.005” below flush (CCIs in 9mm brass) and done. The machine will present the same primer over and over until a case finally comes along to accept it. It’s so nice not worrying about the primer side of things when clearing a stoppage. And overall, the press makes a 650 feel like a flimsy little toy. All of this is coming from a guy who loves the 650. I’m no hater. The 1050 is just that much better.

Titan hammer is *highly* unnecessary for a quality defensive firearm. I don’t even think you need one to win Production at a major match with a Gamer gun. Do exactly as Johnbu suggested; swap springs and polish the snot out of it. Your goal in a defensive firearm is a smooth double action, NOT a light one. Hammer fired guns hit that critical first shot much more weakly than the subsequent SA ones, so keep it a bit heavy and run more hammer spring. Hell my competition gun was around 7 in DA when I quit chasing light triggers and just set it up to run reliably when filthy. (It started at a gritty 12.XX which is likely where your gun is now.) That’s all assuming it’s a metal framed gun with a round trigger guard. Too old for google images to come with much. And yes, go search up my Tanfoglio Tuning videos on YouTube.

Honestly, I think the majority of us don’t have a problem with start position zealots as long as everyone else started in the exact same position. The objective is fairness. If the same guy is requiring every single shooter to hold their tongue just right and focus their eyes on a specific spot? I really don’t mind too much. It’s stupid, it’s annoying, and he should simply require you to adhere to the most liberal/literal version of the WSB... but as long as it’s consistently incorrect, at least it’s fair. Being consistent and fair to every single shooter is the true objetive of the rulebook, the WSB, and the CRO/RO team.

Trail shoes grip slick wooden or concrete surfaces just fine. That’s why they’re so popular; somewhat better traction in mud & gravel than running shoes without being any less safe on hard wet surfaces. The tread materials to avoid are hard plastic cleats, and metal ones. Those are death on wooden pressure pad activators and fault line sticks. I have a pair of cleats that I chose by going to the store and buying the pair with the softest rubber spikes molded into the sole; whichever shoe my fingernail bit into the deepest AND which felt good on my feet. They’re Under Armour brand, and they work well on everything you step on or in while shooting USPSA.

@Beef15, regardless of the brand used, you do definitely need to heavily roughen the grip up with a dremel and aanding drum first. If I like the size of the grip, I’m going very agressive and removing 1/16” to 1/8” of plastic off the surface... otherwise the gun will end up gaining enough bulk that you can feel it. That’s a good thing if you need it, a bad thing if you don’t, so plan for it.

Go buy a dozen of the cheap little metal-handled epoxy paint brushes for a few bucks off amazon, and JB Weld works great. Using a finger or a stick? It’s hard to get it even. I’ve used original slow-cure JB Weld on four guns now. The oldschool stuff that mixes dark gray from a red and a black tube... not the new JB Quick stuff that’s clear. Has a nice long curing time to fix mistakes, and it’s the right color.

God, this is a horrible little gun. Shoot it side by side with a Walther PPS M2. You’ll realize what a total ergonomic fail the Sig really is. Even though the baby Walther’s trigger is marginal, it feels like you’re holding onto more than a big lighter with a barrel on top of it. At speed, there’s no subsititue for traction. Run both guns through something like an el prez, there’s a night and day difference.