MemphisMechanic

Titanium doesn't seem like the best choice for such an application. It's not nearly as ductile as steel, though I'm sure you're using it for speed / lock time reasons due to weight.

Sounds like the previous owner installed a cone-fit guide rod from either Henning or EGD, and tossed the factory one in the box. Any Tanfoglio that is going to see regular use should be running one, so this is a good thing. See the images here: https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Henning-Tanfoglio-Conefit-Guide-Rod-Stainless-P4340.aspx

No FFL, sorry! Otherwise I'd be all over it.

@johnbu the difference is that I took the time to remove the final 1mm or so by hand with a coarse curved file, then sanded it to contour with 80gr sandpaper wrapped around a wooden dowel, and finished with a dremel. Thats why mine doesn't really have "this was ground on" looking edges.

A picture is worth... G34 w/plug vs clearanced Tanfo vs M&P 9

Is this typical of this company? I didn't bother including perhaps 8 to 10 other 124gr bullets with fairly tiny bare lead spots. A shot of the worst handful out of the 100rd sample pack which showed up today: The far right slug actually has a noticeable deformed spot on it's base that won't let it sit flat, without rocking.

I can say without a doubt that my Tanfo loads more easily than a CZ, G34, or an M&P now. Throating the magwell made an incredible difference.

Shoot factor ammo at the major. Then make saving up $100 for a Chrono your absolute top priority. It's important to you and your gun's safety. Or ask around at your local match. Even if your only local matches are indoors and chono use isn't permitted... someone there will have one and a place in the country to shoot. You just have to get to know that guy!

It comes with 50% more marketing and the same trigger pull.

Don't count shots. Visualize the stage completely (memorize it from 12+ airgunnings until you can play it back with eyes closed) and reload when your little mental movie shows you reloading.

They're talking about something like a Springfield EMP where the gun and mags are actually designed around a 9mm length cartridge.

Interesting. I'd have gone back to factory parts one by one before now to find the culprit - there's no way I'd tolerate a gun that had intermittent malfunctions every 100-500 rounds. Locally at one point we had six M&P shooters, several of whom were running my installation of their Apex parts. The only one who had long term headaches like that? Sold the gun rather than troubleshoot it. Everyone else had some form of aftermarket trigger and Glocklike reliablitiy.

Logically there's no reason a single action gun converted to double/single would be illegal. That just doesn't offer any kind of advantage. Which is why I'm sure it's going to turn out to be illegal.

Arms hanging naturally at sides is a fairly neutral shoulder position. In physical training / exercise physiology, internal rotation and external rotation are descriptions for the two directions the shoulder joint can be moved. Exeternally rotated is just that: rotate the shoulder ball and socket so that the thumb rotates away from body centerline. Internal rotation is then opposite, obviously.

Every zombie I've shot with a green bullet has ceased to exist. Technically.

@Eric1231 these appear to be the facts: 1. Novice reloader 2. Dillon 650 3. Bullets getting stuck in the barrel Assuming that's correct, I can almost certainly tell you what the problem is. It's an honest operator error. Let me explain: First, even a half charge of powder might not cycle the gun, but it will get the bullet to clear the barrel. Bullets typically get stuck in barrels when you have a good primer and no powder at all. With high primers the gun would have gone click on the first hit or two while your firing pin was driving the primer into the brass all the way. Once the primer is seated it'll ignite the powder, and you get the normally fired shot you'd expect. What's probably happening? Well... The 650 auto-indexes. What you're doing is managing to short stroke the press when adjusting things or clearing a jam. You have a primed, empty case in station two and the press acts up. In the course of remedying this, you are working the handle high enough to cause the press's ratchet to go CLICK... but not all the way up so that this case gets filled with powder. When the handle is released and rises fully (the shellplate glides back down) the press ratchets to the next station and you now have a squib in waiting. The cures? 1. Each time you place a bullet on the case in station 4, visually confirm that there is powder in it. This is a mandatory universal safety step on all reloading presses. You'll see the absence of powder (squibs) or that there is way too much (double charges) every time, if you bother to look! 2. Change how you handle the press. Don't move the shellplate except to fully stroke it when clearing jams: clear them as it's on the way up and you continue that motion after the problem is fixed, or lock the handle in place. Honestly I don't look at things very hard when running my 650 at speed, until a .40 or .380 case sneaks in there and fouls things up. Any time a malfunction is cleared, I watch everything like a hawk for the next 5 handle pulls. Atypical operation is what causes atypical ammunition.

Spray bottom of small Tupperware container with one shot for about one second. Dump a couple handfuls of cases in. Roll them around in it. Spraying the cases with a rattlecan directly will get lube inside them, and can cause issues. This method only coats the outside.

Last scentence above your question: "Pre-orders for the polymer version should open next week for those asking."

I couldn't get my standard deviation with RS Comp under 20, no matter what I tried. I burn through it for practice ammo only, now.

Even if it could be, I doubt that'd be IDPA SSP legal, which is the only thing that makes the Lim Pro desirable in the first place: a gun for all disciplines.

I would ask which division he won, but this was back in '83...

@JayWord unless he punched a .355-.450" hole in the side of the john, how on earth did that guy get caught?

I have to agree with @Jake Di Vita on this one. My elbows are slightly bent and externally rotated, so that my elbows are almost exactly the same distance apart as my shoulder sockets. In searching for as much grip pressure as possible, I find that a bent elbow and the "upper" thumb half of the palm rolled up and inward toward the other hand really lets me grip the gun hard, and use more than my finger/grip strength to do it. Involving the chest/deltoid/bicep/tricep in pressing my hands in toward each other helps put pressure on the gun. The best way to describe this is often to grip the gun with relaxed elbows and your regular grip, then try to roll the forearms inward and elbows outward to clamp down on the gun. Just a little bit of muscle tension really cranks down on the gun hard. With the elbows locked this isn't really possible, and it also means recoil is hammering directly on the shoulder and elbow joints instead of letting the arms become shock absorbers. I know several top shooters appear to shoot this way, but it isn't my personal preference.

From 2009. See item #4: https://www.uspsa.org/uspsa-nroi-hottopics.php

Thanks for the info John, but I'll probably start him in "actual" steel challenge soon because that's what we actually have around here.