MemphisMechanic

Personally I'd use a belt sander. Or a large flat surface with sandpaper glued to it, and then smaller wooden sanding blocks to form curves and the like at the end... then stipple with a soldering gun. Unlike @SoCalShooter69 I already see a desire to carve mine up a bit too. In particular, to create about a 1/16" deep channel where my thumb wants to lie along then when hitting the mag release.

In an 18 round game, that's effectively unlimited.

Also in general: All Production-legal guns are either striker-fire (Glock like) or have to start in DA with their hammer fully down. This means that there is NO gun you can shoot in Production that requires you to engage the safety at the start of a stage.

Production is hard in a whole different way than Open is hard. And Revolver is hard in a different way than those. The best shooters don't all shoot open. Many, like my own division preferences indicate, are addicted to Production... or they're Limited lovers like Vogel. You won't find all the best guys in any one division. Shoot a little in each with borrowed gear. Then set yourself up with a gun and rig for the one that makes your inner child grin like a fool when you load & make ready.

@kneelingatlas has a collection of Tanfoglio open guns that's pretty impressive.

Howard Leight Max 33dB Disposable Ear Plugs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IYDKSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VpLszbH4T898C I've only seen disposables that were 33 dB. I use the custom-molded Radians plugs that are 26 dB and you do yourself. Basically a two-part epoxy you press into your ear. They're great and cheap.

They figured out that literally no one would participate in "10 round rifle" and wanted to use it to grow the sport. So for once, their mag capacity restrictions are gone.

I run the $12 radians do-it-yourself custom fit earplugs and love them. If I use muffs over them, I power them down when I shoot and enjoy how much easier it is to focus on seeing my sights when there's no chit chat nor DING from steel to distract you. Ben Stoeger introduced me to that trick.

You're never supposed to admit to shooting reloaded ammo when contacting customer service! Thats like telling the cop you were only going 5 over, not 10.

Oh. That's an easy fix. My original M&P was that way. Shape the notch in the slide to a smoother \ angle where the slide stop engages it, and round off the top edge of the slide stop where it hooks that notch in the slide. Then thoroughly polish both parts. Go slowly with a hand file on each component so you don't make it TOO easy. Installing a lighter 13ish pound spring (which you would want to run anyway) will also reduce pressure on the slide stop level when the gun is locked open.

No. You don't don't have to engage the manual safety on a gun with the hammer down or on one which is striker-fired.

This way: (pinch in web between thumb and index finger)

You'll get better dryfiring six days a week for 5-10 minutes than you will dryfiring twice a week for 30 minutes. Gun handling skills get you out of C very easily. Turning draws, surrender draws, reloads, and getting the gun into your weak hand in less than two seconds. Etc. Handling the gun briefly every day is so much better at building smooth gun handling than handling it once or twice.

Not if you remember to look through the blurry sights for both shots as you roll past. (Thats the optional part everyone neglects to share, so we all got to learn that lesson the hard way. Even at six feet, ya still gotta look.)

Grab your .45 (or .40, or 9mm) 1911. Straight drop belt holster. Two layer competition belt (I use a cheap $40 from Shooters Connection which is actually very similar to the quality of my DAA and CR Speed's) Six mag pouches, and 7 high quality mags. ... and go to the next match and tell whomever looks to be in charge that you're brand new and looking for advice. They'll steer you straight from there.

Sometimes there a target six feet from the muzzle, and it makes sense to engage it at a dead sprint as you whizz by. Yeah.

Lube slide/rails with polishing compound and cycle the bare slide on the bare frame a few hundred times. That'll help lap things in and reduce drag so it can run a lighter spring. Still... Initially I had to run a 10lb if I wanted reliable feeding. Once the gun broke in I was able to run the 8 lb that I use now. That gun has the Xtreme guide rod, yes? If so, I'd buy an 8,9,10lb short slide variety of springs and test them out. Guns without either the EGD or Henning or PD guide rod need one right away.

SHooting is entirely visual. Seriously chew on this for a while: If you don't see the sights in the spot you want to hit, why are you pulling the trigger? You'll either get scored a miss, or have to make it up, and both waste far more time than simply shooting whenever the sights tell you to in the first place. Fast or slow is a stupid distraction you're getting suckered by. Just shoot your sights.* * pot. kettle. (I also suck at this)

If you want to shoot 60% of the points in Production on a Classifier you better be shooting fast as hell if you want a shot at even an A-class score. And you're... not. Like I said: B is nothing more than a clean draw and reload that have been dryfire s to death and the patience to drill the A zones. Shave a second off your time by drawing and loading noticeably faster... then use that knowledge that you have this cushion to allow yourself to just shoot the sights when they're in the A. You'll be shocked you don't really slow down, but your hits are there. On dryfire? 90% of your dryfire with a DA/SA gun should be done in single action, in my opinion. I work one shot from the holster for DA, and everything else I do is like this:

I believe you mean Optimize™ ... Step one is to see if your disconnector rubs on the frame ramp in the first place. If it does, this could help. If not, it's a waste of time. Mark it with a sharpie and dryfire the gun a few dozen times.

What were your hits/points like on both runs? Just giving us the % doesn't tell us much. Your turning draw and your reload are where you need to focus. The turning draw is about a full second slower than it should be: I know how fast my first person video spins in a turning draw and it much faster than yours... and my turning draw languishes badly behind other A-class shooters. I also don't hear the gun clear kydex until it should already be driving out to the target: get a grip before your body begins to spin, and as soon as your hips are past the 180, lift the gun out. Don't worry about shooting fast, like you do every other stage. To make B class just dryfire your draw and reload until both combined are shaving 1.5 seconds off that kind of run, and sit back and pick off some alphas. You literally cannot help but make B class if you can shoot straight and draw and reload quickly.

(And not the Xtreme sear, is what he's saying. The surface is usually much smoother on the "ordinary" sear from EAA)

I'll back @SoCalShooter69 on that one. Take two or three thousandths off, and test it. Repeat if needed.

Bolo Titan hammer One-piece sear EGD or Patriot or Henning guide rod Wolff recoil spring between 6-10 (preference) Patroit springs: firing pin return spring sear spring (get one spare for when you bend first one) trigger spring hammer spring of your choice. (I like 14 or 15.5) Wolff extractor spring A .150 x .100 Dawson FO front sight

Oops. No. Down to .459" Then finally to .456" if I recall correctly, on the second pass. It lights CCI #550 Magnum primers 100% right now with a 15.5lb PD spring. Which is great. Those primers were easy to find everywhere, even during a shortage... and I have a ton of them. I intend to shoot 550s at locals and for practice, and Winchesters for majors. Without lightening the hammer spring, I know it'll go bang 110% of the time on Win's. I took ~ three thousandths off the bolo each time, and I did it twice.