MemphisMechanic

Agree with @pete627. Unless it's a self defense gun where you really want packups, every competition gun loses the rear sight eventually. It's just in the way.

I bring a 100rd box of 124 FMJs with N320 behind them to majors for exactly this situation. Almost no smoke. In 2008, a friend was loading titegroup under coated bullets and absolutely tanked a stage due to the blackpowder-like cloud in front of him. Back then I only shot FMJ. When I switched to coated, that lesson still wasn't lost on me.

I had to take 39 and keep the one centered one. Which is, oddly enough, the same way I shoot 40yd mini poppers.

Got it home and put it back together. Perfect! Looks just like the Sevignys on my old G34. Tons of that tall front post in a deep notch, with the front sight about half the width of the notch.

Didn't like how shallow the sight picture is. I ordered the Dawson's for the regular PPQ and discovered that the LPA rear has a unique dovetail and they wouldn't work. Dawson sight picture: Soooo I made another trip over to my buddy's house, and milled .030" out of the bottom of the notch. I'll be running this with a .190-.195 Dawson front when I'm not shooting carry optics. Note the two ledges in the bottom of the rear notch: Annnnd gone:

A Production guy, I went G34 > M&P > Tanfo > Walther Q5 (Plastic Plastic SuperNinjaSteelGun back to plastic. With the first two guns being the bulk of my 10 years shooting IDPA then USPSA.) I can promise you that the gun doesn't matter much. Shoot what fits you and feels good and makes you enjoy practicing... and go practice.

Starlight mounted on press. I'm a fan: https://youtu.be/phWCSg1W7MA

He took that picture really close to the back of the gun though. Put your eye there and the notch gets wider & deeper. Take a photo from 2 feet behind the slide, then crop it to "zoom in" and you get an accurate sight picture, like these Dawson's I got for the Walther PPQ today:

If you slow down you may or may not get good hits, but your time is guaranteed to be slow. Hard sight focus, run that sucker across the targets as agessively as you can, and grip the gun hard. The two M-class production classifier runs I've managed recently have had: 8A 3C 1D 9A 3C I wasted two years figuring out you really do shoot them like any other stage. Hits and time are both important, and you cannot sacrifice speed to accomplish accuracy - you have to learn to be accurate at speed. Dont "shoot slow enough you know you'll shoot all A's." Shoot aggressively enough you know you will have a really good stage time, and watch the sights much harder than you usually do. And get your draw, turning draw, and reload times down as low as you possibly can.

EGD > Lava grips > Henning > SSI Scales > Factory wood > Patriot palmswell ...In order from thick to thin. I've now heard of two cases of the PD plastic 3D printed grips cracking though, so if you want really thick ones, wait until they make theirs in metal. It's coming.

Henning grips are the second thinnest option for the Tanfo platform, behind the Grauffels.

Will weigh for sure.

My two two best buddies are running the 7.5moa triangle. I have the 2.5 arriving Tuesday afternoon for this weekends match. We'll let you know what you think.

Fit the top of the nub on the safety's shaft slowly, until it slips beneath the leg of the sear. Like @mjmagee67 said.

Interesting. RHT molded an absolutely perfect holster for my S3 and the new Q5Match I'm shooting. Gun won't rock, even with the tension fully backed off. Bladetech holster for the S3 wouldn't let the gun insert fully until I extensively reshaped the bottom 1" at the muzzle with a heat gun.

Looks good. You're stealing all of my good ideas.

There's another variable here: what bullet weight are all of you shooting? The difference in feel and/or perceived slide velocity between a 147 and a 124 is night and day. You can barely, barely feel the difference in recoil in these heavy guns. I found after a case of each weight that I preferred 124s specifically to make the cycling of the gun feel less sluggish with an 8# recoil and 15.5# hammer.

Just buy the longslide spring from Ben's pro shop and trim it to match your current spring's length. If it's even any longer. They usually aren't.

It's a matter of personal preference. That's all. I had a Vanek and two other $$$ trigger kits in my G34 in my "shooting IDPA and buying speed" days... eventually was SSP/MA and USPSA B class with the gun bone stock minus the recoil spring and an overtravel stop. I don't mind 4 pounds of trigger if it's a good clean 4 pounds... and the Walther is exceptional for a plastic gun.

Spent $5 at Home Depot tonight... Before: Selected a suitable spring from the Home Depot assortment ($5) After: Dryfired it for 10 minutes. Put the factory spring back in to compare, and immediately tossed the springs aside for another project. I dislike how vague and mushy the trigger got - the Q5 has perhaps the cleanest break & reset of any plastic gun. I value that more than a lighter pull. I see why @hwansikcjswo has left his gun alone, now. I'm keeping the stock springs.

Is the TF basepad under the 140mm limit, or is that a "3 gun only" kind of piece? Hadn't heard about the HD trigger job.

My friend, it doesn't work like that. OAL is highly specific to the precise bullet you're shooting: You can load a 115gr PD FMJ in this gun to 1.165" and be just fine, while a fat round nosed 124 needs to be down around 1.100" to feed in the same barrel. So unless you tell us what bullet you were shooting... "I load at 1.130" is absolutely meaningless.

Yep. Production guys with Tanfos and CZs who like a sub-2-pound trigger like Federal primers, too.

@B_RAD and @858... Equipment matters in that a CZ is meant for tiny human hands. I absoltely hate holding them, and went with a Tanfo specifically to get into something that actually filled my long, but skinny hands. A G34 is just plain too big for your average female's hands to optimally hold. The equipment does matter, insofar that you have to be able to comfortably reach and operate everything. After that, well, a Walther Q5 or a CZ or Tanfo or Glock will result in pretty much the same score if the operator is up to the challenge and well practiced with that platform.

The errors @v1911 listed are ones that pretty much every new reloader goes through. There's a sweet spot on the belling amount. Crimping is an "as little as I have to" affair. Gotta get those bullets seated squarely. Use the round nose end of your Dillon die, or better yet switch to Redding's micrometer die. Load ammo as long as your gun enjoys being fed.