Paul Burtchell Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) I've done alot of reading on the forum but, I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. I'm about to get and older open pistol in 38 super that was set up for the old power factor. I want to load for the new power factor and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on a good load that would still work the comp effectively? I believe the pistol has a 9# recoil spring installed now. Below is a picture of the Pistol & comp, it that helps. Thanks in advance. Edited January 1, 2010 by baerburtchell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVZ Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 What we did at the time was keep the same powder charge and dropped down to a 115 bullet. Dropped the PF from 181 to 171 and kept the comp working the same MVZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockcomma Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 I think you'll be fine running most of the 165PF loads. That comp looks better suited for 165 than 175 to me. I just put an older 38 super open gun on hold at a local gun shop it has four ports on top and at the muzzle has three ports on each side, two of which will most likely be removed. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwmiket Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 http://www.brazoscustom.com/165Power.htm Article Bob wrote a while back........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Drop down a little in bullet weight, go to a slightly slower powder and it'll work just fine. Just looking at your comp, I don't think it'll be a big deal even if you stayed with the same powder and bullet and just dropped the powder charge a touch. Based on the size and how many ports that comp has, I'd try something like 4756, 3N38 or N105 with a 121 or 115gr bullet....you'll have plenty of gas volume to work the comp. Try to keep in mind that the whole concept of "flatter is better" isn't really true. Consistent dot-tracking is the most important thing.....smooth, straight up and down is primary. I know a couple of top gunsmiths who said they've built guns that had virtually zero dot rise, but nobody could shoot them well....a slight tweak to where they raise a consistent amount while staying in sight and suddenly anybody can shoot them. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Burtchell Posted January 1, 2010 Author Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) Good stuff guys. Edited January 1, 2010 by baerburtchell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Hello: Cut the end of the comp off then you will have a 3 port comp and use 3N38 with the 121's or 115's. Just a thought. You may try the comp the way it is and try Silhouette or HS-6. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Hello: Just noticed it is a little shorter so leave the comp Try the HS-6. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shooterbenedetto Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) dude, use heavier bullet like 130 softer dot tracking too and your gun will last longer. tune for reliability ans shoot the heck out of it. Edited January 1, 2010 by shooterbenedetto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunakilla Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 go with a 124-125 gr load with Autocomp and shoot it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz1911 Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) HS-6 is pretty dense. I ran 4756 in my 38SC gun and it filled the case nicely and burned very clean. I remember it being pretty inexpensive too. Should be plenty of reload data on the forum. Remember most of us are still running PF's above 170 anyway. Edited January 1, 2010 by boz1911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Burtchell Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 (edited) I've got some HS6 and also Silhouette. I may start with those. I was also thinking N105, N350, 3N38 or even 7625?? Edited January 2, 2010 by baerburtchell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I've got some HS6 and also Silhouette. I may start with those. I was also thinking N105, N350, 3N38 or even 7625?? With a comp like yours I'd expect N105 to be the softest and have the least dot rise (tons of gas to work the comp). 3N38 won't be far behind, but in some guns (for some weird reason) it'll give you whoompa fireballs from time to time....not sure why. N350 will work and was one of the most popular powders at the old power factor, but probably won't be quite as flat. 7625 is quite a bit faster than the other three. It's also noticably reverse-temperature sensitive. If you get some Atlanta Arms 38SC Major, it's loaded with a Zero 125gr JHP and what I've been told is 7625....so that would be an easy test (it's also incredibly consistent). With a 124/125 I'd start at 7.5gr of N350 (probably wind up closer to 8). With 3N38 I'd start around 9gr (might need around 9.5gr). N105 I'd start at 9.5gr (might wind up at 10). I haven't loaded 7625, but there's a bunch of data on it that people have posted. If you drop down to a 115 you should bump those up by around .5gr. In my guns I need 10.5gr of N105, 10.0gr of 3N38 and 8.5gr of N350 to make 170+. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Burtchell Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Great info. Thanks Bart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Paul Welcome back to the dark side. Nice Piece. Its got some weight to it in the handle so its going to be a good shooter, I saw it I almost bought it, it was a steal. Don't go whacking on it till you run it for a few months. Ok to the load. That comp is a lot like the one on the old Competitor you sold to Timnahl I bought. I have been thru a lot of powders finding one that works well. Like Brazos says 10gr or more. I settled in on 125gr JHP Zeros with 10.4gr of Accurate 7 and that is the best load I have come up with. I'm running a 10# recoil spring in the gun. I am thinking about trying some heavier springs to see what happens. With this load the dot stays in the A Zone but I still wait for it to settle before breaking the shot. Accurate 7 is cheap but you will find a little unburned powder inside the gun, so clean it often. It meters well in my Hornady but I have not tried it in the Dillon. I bought 8lbs for $100 at 10.5 gr it won't last that long. My top secret minor load is 5.1gr of WST with a 115gr RN Zero, shoots like an airsoft. The gun has more recoil and flip with the 22LR conversion than this load. Depending on slide weight you might need to drop the recoil spring. Another low cost powder paid $110 for 8 lbs at Bexar Community Range. I have tried N105 its a compressed load and at the TX state open it got hot and pushed the bullets out, N350 not bad but a little too much flip, IMR7625, IMR4756, HS6, TruBlue, 3N37, PowderPistol, and a couple others didn't make the grade. Most important thing is mastering the Dot, not just off the draw but dry fire around opjects, bending down thru ports and all kind of wierd positions and did I say weak hand strong hand. Remember 2"s high up close. I couldn't do it so I went Quinn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Burtchell Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 I've hit the "Motherload" of info. here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyg00 Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 dude, use heavier bullet like 130 softer dot tracking too and your gun will last longer.tune for reliability ans shoot the heck out of it. +++++10! Marty A-7424 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Burtchell Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Looking at Montana Gold, Zero & PD I can't seem to find any source for 130 or 135's that do not have an exposed lead base. I do not see any 135 CMJ's or JHP's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritinUSA Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I use a 124 grain RN CMJ from Montana Gold. It's very consistent and I think it will work well with the comp design that you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I have tried N105 its a compressed load and at the TX state open it got hot and pushed the bullets out, How many grains of N105 were you using? I'm running 10.5gr in one load and have also used 10.7gr with another and both are just slight compressed at 1.235". I've shot that load in lots of very hot matches....at least up to 100F and never had a bullet pushed out. I'd be more than a little worried if I didn't have enough neck tension to prevent that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Looking at Montana Gold, Zero & PD I can't seem to find any source for 130 or 135's that do not have an exposed lead base. I do not see any 135 CMJ's or JHP's? Why would you want to use a 130 or 135? It's the polar opposite of what you're talking about in this thread, i.e. getting the comp to work to keep the gun shooting flat. Heavier bullets are going to give you more muzzle flip in an Open gun. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jody Waring Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 As far as bullet, I would stick with the tried and proven 124gr projectile. That comp I think would work well with most loads, and it will boil down to what you like. I would be curious to see how IMR 7625 would work in that gun with that comp design. Each gun is different- so is the shooter. I suggest experimenting and play around untill you get a load that is reliable, consistent, and one that you like the feel of. You're not running barrel ports or a big long comp, so myself I don't think you will need the large powder volume loads to make your gun work well. My best tip to you is get out there and shoot that blaster and have lots of fun doing it Don't get too tied up thinking you will immediately find that perfect load right away, getting out and shooting will tell the tale and by experimenting you will find that sweet @ss load you are looking for. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 As far as bullet, I would stick with the tried and proven 124gr projectile. And 125s, 121s and 115s aren't tried and proven? The 115s are definitely flatter shooting in my guns and every bit as accurate. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jody Waring Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Sorry dude, I assumed when I mentioned a 124gr bullet most would also think 121 and 125, and to be honest I think Fiocchi makes a 123gr bullet. As far as 115 forgive me as those of us outside of the USA can't load below 120 for major in open, and it slipped my mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Burtchell Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 (edited) Sorry dude, I assumed when I mentioned a 124gr bullet most would also think 121 and 125, and to be honest I think Fiocchi makes a 123gr bullet. As far as 115 forgive me as those of us outside of the USA can't load below 120 for major in open, and it slipped my mind.It's all good. Thanks for your info. & ideas. Edited January 3, 2010 by baerburtchell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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