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Gun ? from a potential newbie


EMTCurly

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I've been shooting USPSA for bout a Year and a half and am a C class shooter in Production and Single Stack. Lately I've been wanting to try something new and different, so am thinking bout Revolver division.

I do not currently own any revolvers, but have been considering trading/selling my Kimber Classic Gold Match for something new, so.......

At first I was thinking bout a S&W 625 or maybe a 686.....The 625 because it's THE gun used by Jerry M., also because I have a bunch of .45 reloads for my Kimber. The 686....well no particular reason.

After reading lots of threads here about who's carrying what, I'm wondering about a 610. Although I've never shot or reloaded a .40/10mm, the thought of being able to use a .40 for competition and using full power 10mm loads for (hog) hunting has me thinking.

What are your thoughts on the pros and cons of a 610 as opposed to other choices? Anything else I should consider when choosing?

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A 610 can make a really nice competition revolver, but its primary advantage is ammo compatibility for those already heavily committed to handloading for .40 caliber.

For USPSA Revo division, I would strongly recommend finding a 5" 625, or one of the older blued 25-2s in .45 ACP. When the Revo Super Squad convenes at the USPSA Nationals later on in the week, virtually all of us will have S&W .45 ACP wheelguns in our holsters. That should tell you everything you need to know.

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Another vote here for the S&W 625. I have one and it is a solid performer, and I think that you would be pleased with it.

That being said, I actually compete (well I call it competing :blush:, but mainly have fun :goof: ) with a Ruger Alaskan. That is because I also shoot Cowboy Action competitions, and I can load .45 Colt to use with CAS, IDPA, & USPSA.

Edited by Blueridge
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If you're feeling adventurous, you could always load some .45 Super rounds in your 625, but if I were in your shoes I'd take the advice of a 625 for USPSA and a beat-up Ruger for hogs.

I used to obsess about finding guns that would "multi-task", but more and more I'm finding that it's better to have 2 guns that do 2 different things perfectly than 1 gun that does 2 things just ok.

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Thanks guys...I guess I was just trying to get the "most bang for my buck" in todays tight economy (wow, is that the ideal use for that cliche or what?) by looking at a handgun that COULD multi task....but I guess I don't want something that would be a "jack of all trades and master of none". (geez I'm on a roll!). And point taken on already being set up to reload .45 ammo.

While I'm not looking to be the next Jerry Miculek, should I try to get the Miculek version of the 625, or will any 625 do? Can anyone explain to me in plain language what are some of the real world differences and advantages I would see and feel (at the local match level) between the Miculek version and a "regular" one?

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There is no advantage to the JM version. Jerry doesn't use one. The only thing that's different is that is a 4" barrel and Miculek grips. The JM grips are an acquired taste, I tried them for one season and ultimately ended up selling them. They kind of suck with major loads.

What nearly everyone in the super squad is using(including Jerry) is a 5" 625. That's really ideal. The other good option is a 6 1/2" 25-2. Longer barrels are always better, more sight radius is your friend.

Carmoney has of has had every variation of moonclipped revolver that there is, everything from a plain vanilla 625 all the way up to a full-out balls-to-the-walls Nowlin custom 25-2, and he uses a plain vanilla 5" 625 or occasionally a 25-2. A good trigger, sights you like, and a good chamfer on the cylinder and virtually anything will work, but the 5" 625 with a full lug barrel and a 6 1/2" 25-2 with the lighter barrel both balance well and give you more sight radius than a 4" JM will.

Edited by Revopop
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The other difference in the JM version is a serrated trigger. I don't like serrated triggers at all personally, but some guys like them. That's one of those personal preference things. I'm running a 6.5" barreled 25-2 this year, and Steve Irish tells me there are at least three more here at Nats. I can't say there's any big advantage over a 5" 625 though.

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Between a 5" 625 and a 6.5" 25-2, I'd say just buy whichever one you find for a reasonable price first.

I also am not a fan of serrated triggers. My Carmonized 625 has a smooth trigger and the face is radiused and polished. My Carmonized SSR gun has a serrated trigger. There's no comparison. I end up getting a sore trigger finger by the end of the match with the serrated trigger. I think it all has to do with how you stroke the trigger. I saw a JM pro tip on Shooting USA where he recommended using the tip of your finger to stroke the trigger, like you would with an autopistol. For me, that's uncomfortable. I have the first joint of my trigger finger centered on the trigger face, and it works well. I think that because my trigger finger moves around a bit on the trigger face, I get a sore trigger finger. If I was trying to keep the pad of my trigger finger on the trigger face I'd want it serrated.

To my knowledge, Carmoney does it the same way, and that's probably why he likes the smooth trigger too.

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I am no expert, but I have been happy with a 4" 625, and I also like my triggers ribbed for pleasure. But like I said, my opinion carries little if any weight. If you reload 45 anyway then I would think a 45 revolver would be a great bet. If the gun will just be used for gaming you might as well just send it off to the smith of your choice for a good action job and ream before you even shoot it much. You will be happier in the long run, and will save yourself some frustration. Are there any active revolver shooters in your local club? They might offer some suggestions or let you try their rigs before you take the plunge.

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I saw a JM pro tip on Shooting USA where he recommended using the tip of your finger to stroke the trigger, like you would with an autopistol. For me, that's uncomfortable. I have the first joint of my trigger finger centered on the trigger face, and it works well.

Yeah, that's actually how most of us do it. I always smile and shake my head when I see people trying to imitate Jerry's shooting techniques, fingertip on the trigger and all that jazz. Jerry can do things that nobody else can do, and all it does is screw people up trying to do the same stuff. Or so it seems to me.

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I saw a JM pro tip on Shooting USA where he recommended using the tip of your finger to stroke the trigger, like you would with an autopistol. For me, that's uncomfortable. I have the first joint of my trigger finger centered on the trigger face, and it works well.

Yeah, that's actually how most of us do it. I always smile and shake my head when I see people trying to imitate Jerry's shooting techniques, fingertip on the trigger and all that jazz. Jerry can do things that nobody else can do, and all it does is screw people up trying to do the same stuff. Or so it seems to me.

There used to be a great video of Rob Leatham showing the basics of shooting an auto loader. He demonstrates his trigger technique and then spends the rest of the episode explaining why his way is NOT for everybody and showing a better way to do it. All of the revo shooters I have watched seem to use the first joint of the trigger finger too. Mike is right about something that works for Jerry (or Rob) not necessarily working for us mere mortals.

-ld

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I shot a 610 first because it was a good deal and second because I already loaded for a para p16 and glock 22. That said the size of the cartridge verses 45 does make a difference in reloading (the gun not the case) with a 45 there is less cylinder wall between the chambers to bump into if you are not perfectly aligned. Also true round nose projectiles are much easier to find for the 45 vs the 40 s&w and the round nose reloads a hair faster (once again if not lined up perfectly)

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I also use the first knuckle of my finger. It can pull more weight over a longer period of time than the tip of my finger can. I have used this technique shooting NRA Service rifle as well as the M-16 in qualification. It works well and doesn't seem to affect my sight alignment at all.

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Do not underestimate the 625 as a critter killer. A 4" .45 ACP revolver can shoot a 255 gr. bullet over 900 FPS, better yet if you go with a 5" version for USPSA. I'd rather have a .45 Super equivalent over a 10mm. I tend to obsess about the "one gun does everything" approach and I believe that a 4" 625 is the best compromise. But I carry mine concealed all the time too. If you don't want to carry it concealed, then the 5" barrel is certainly the way to go. The extra weight and sight radius will help a lot. Oh, and I'd hold out for an older one, like a -4. I do not like the frame mounted firing pins and their attendant reliability issues one bit.

Dave Sinko

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I agree with Dave that the .45 ACP can be useful for hunting--my old pin load, 255-gr. LSWC at 1050 fps, would certainly be a reasonable cartridge for hunting stuff the size of whitetail deer, anyway.

I disagree with his concern over the frame-mounted firing pin. The purists don't like them, but the factory frame-mounted firing pins have proven themselves quite reliable. Both systems will have failures--hammer noses break, too--but these are rare. For ignition reliability, all other things being equal, the frame-mounted firing pin is actually slightly better in terms of transmitting energy through to the primer.

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The 4" gun may be the most versital if you are thinking of ever shooting idpa as well as they dont recognize anything over 4". Much to my chagrin as my 610 is a 5". But havent tried idpa anyway so no major loss. Seems more like a k frame kinda sport anyway.

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I cannot thank everone enough for ALL of the great advice! I really appreciate it. I'm fixing to start hitting the local gun shops very shortly and get some price quotes and see what's in stock.

Next question, what's a good holster that would be legal for both USPSA as well as IDPA? And what's a good holster for strictly USPSA?

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I use a Blade-Tech DOH, and I really, really, like it. If I could use it for everything, I would. It's plenty fast but more secure than a race holster. For IDPA, you can take the DOH hanger off and replace it with a SRB hanger and it'll be legal, although if you do end up shooting both you'll probably get tired of doing that and either leave the SRB on for USPSA or just get another holster.

Maybe some day when I feel like the only thing holding me back is a few tenths on my draw speed I'll look at a CR Speed holster, but I just don't think it's that much faster, especially when you consider that the tradeoff is less security which could end up in a DQ at a big match that I paid a lot of money to go to.

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* i got a 610 because of the ability to use the same ammo in it as in my single stack and limited guns. turns out after i had the 610 i didn't like the way it felt or balanced and went back to the 625. later on i got a 646 and it's all i've used this year except for a 686 in non-USPSA competition.

* i'm not much of a revolver shooter so you may be ahead taking advice from just about anyone but me.

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