EMTCurly

I've been out of shooting USPSA and IDPA or almost 2 years (wow)...the last few months before my self imposed furlough was with a Smith JM 625 (which I have since sold, and am now deeply regretting). I am wanting to return to competition shooting and definitively want to go back to using a revolver, although now I am not sure what caliber to begin with again. Of course the 2 logical choices are .38/.357 and .45acp. What I'm NOT sure of are the specific advantages and disadvantages of each caliber. Any advice on what I should put under each heading for a pro and con? Gregg

Today I saw Remington primers for sale at Outdoor World (Bass Pro Shop) for 34 bucks a thousand. Since I didn't think it was all that bad a price (esp. for such a large chain store!), it got me thinking. How does Remington rank when compared to Winchester, CCI and Federal? Gregg

The reason I'm asking is because I'm getting to the end of my supply of both Titegroup and Unique and am debating whether to buy more of the same (or just one) or try something different. Powder will be used in both my 625 and my Glock 19.

I'm really not too concerned with how "dirty" a powder is. And "smoky"? Most of my shooting is outdoors so that's not an issue either. I guess what I'm curious about is how "hot" Bullseye is. I know its a fast powder, faster than Titegroup I believe, but does it burn hot enough to melt lube, melt a soft lead bullet or melt the moly coating on bullets? I would think that if Bullseye has been used for as long as it has been it can't be TOO bad, but one still has to ask.

I just thought I'd throw this into the mix. Granted I'm still a newer reloader compared to many of you, so I don't have the experience you've gained by experimenting with different powders and load recipes, but I have a thought. Right now I'm using Titegoup, and yes on occasion I've noticed some smoke when using lead bullets (all I use), and while I don't find anything about this powder too offensive, I'm always on the lookout for "the best" or at least "the better". Titegroup is touted as burning HOT (maybe too hot?); some say Clays you have to load to the max to make major; etc, etc, etc.... What about some old school classic .45 powders? Where do they fit in with todays shooters and is anyone still using them? I guess the main one I'm thinking about is Bullseye. How hot is it compared to Titegroup? And how easy is it to make major with? I'm guess I'm just exploring my options on powder given what's available in my area. Let's have fun debating THIS chapter!

Hmm, now I'm thinking.....with a velocity of 720fps, should I be using a softer lead bullet, like the Missouri Cowboy bullet with a Brinnell of 12 as opposed to a harder bullet? Which one will keep the leading to a minimum at that lower velocity?

I am using the RNFP bullet from Missouri. It's listed on their website as the "PinBusters!" bullet, which they list has a Brinnell hardness of 18 as compared to the Cowboy #1 bullet which they list has a Brinell of 12. As for the Florida IDPA match, I entered as ESR....got 1st place in ESR Marksman! (of course I was the only one who entered at that level, but who cares?) And much thanks goes to you Duane, as I read and re read your Blue Press article. I'm surprised as well that I got a velocity deviation in the single digits! I'm still a new reloader (bout a year or so) and am using a Lee single stage press with a Lee Auto Disk powder measure. Nothing fancy but I guess it works!

Just wanted to share my recipe and results. I recently participated in the Florida IDPA match this past weekend and I used a loading that I'd read about on both this website as well as in the Dillon "Blue Press". Since I don't have a chronograph (yet) I wanted to use something that I thought might make major without me worrying about NOT making major. My gun is a Smith & Wesson 625 "JM". I used a Missouri Bullet Co. 250 grain .45 bullet backed by 3.8 grains of Titegroup. OAL was 1.200 with Winchester primers. Range results were pretty good, with a 25 yard group from a rest measuring approx. 3 inches. Yeah I know, that's not fantastic, (I shoot better than that and I KNOW the gun is capable of better) but at least it easily fit inside the center "-0". Recoil was a nice mild push which I thought came back on target pretty easily. Well the proof is in the pudding as they say, so at the chronograph stage the 2 rounds fired produced 720 fps and 726 fps respectively for 180pf. I may try 3.6 Titegroup and see how that shoots...

I loaded up some 250 gr. LFN bullets from Missouri Bullet Co. for my S&W 625. Powder used was Titegroup with Winchester primers. I loaded up 25 rounds each of 3.4 grains, 3.6 grains and 3.8 grains of TG. The 3.4 grain load was a joy to shoot! That must be what a "poweder puff" load must feel like. Almost no recoil to speak of. All loads were accurate; as long as I did my part, I got several one hole 3 shot groups at 15 yards. My question is this....Overall length for all rounds was 1.222-1.226. Although the groove with the lube was not exposed, there was still a small portion of the top bullet groove exposed outside of the case; enough was exposed to where my fingernail could catch it. Should the bullet be seated to where all the grooves are inside the case? I mean the 250 gr. bullet is a BIG (read long) bullet and I don't know if the rounds can be too short when used in a revolver, given the jump it has to make from the cylinder to the barrel. Thoughts? Opinions?

I was laying in bed last night, thinking bout different loads to try for my S&W 625 when it came to me....Black Powder? Nah! Hmmmm. Maybe? I believe it was Mike Venturino in a recent issue of American Handgunner tried it with so so results. Of course he used it in a 1911. AND Of course I can't find the issue where the article appeared. I have some .44 caliber Pyrodex pellets, but since they fit perfectly into a .45acp case, there's no room for a bullet. BUT...has anyone ever tried it? Or thought of it?

As I'm still new the world of the revolver in IDPA & USPSA, when I dry fire practice, I'm still trying out both styles of the reload to see which one I prefer. It seems that so far, when I keep my 625 in my strong hand and use my weak to reload, I use a Pachmayer Gripper, as it keeps my hand secure on the grip with minimal movement. And when I use the Miculek style strong hand reload by moving my revolver to the weak hand to hold, the Miculek style grips seem to let the gun move around easier. So, do you use 1 style of grip no matter how you reload? Or does your preferred method of reloading steer you towards a specific grip? So far I feel more comfortable keeping my revolver in my strong and using the weak hand to reload. I have another question also....how many prefer a Pachmayer or a Hogue rubber grip?

I work as a Paramedic with my shifts being 24 on/ 48 off and have to gone to many matches right after getting off shift. Most times I have had less than 6 hours sleep, with many times having had only 2-4 hours sleep in between running 911 calls, and I don't always get those 3-4 hours consecutively! Have I been tired at the match? Heck yeah! Have I ever been so tired that I felt unsafe handling a firearm? No. There have been many matches I have planned on attending after getting off of work and have been so tired I just went home instead. I think you would feel crappier having taken a shot of cold medicine (NyQuil) the night before a match.

I will be shooting my new 625 at the Orlando IDPA match this Sunday...wish me luck!

sorry guys i should have been more specific...it did come with 3 moonclips, but i'm damn sure not gonna try to load those clips by hand. not fun! so until i can get a "mooner", just wanted to make sure I can still shoot it without ammo being loaded onto clips. of course the manual says NOT to do that, same as it says NOT to use reloads (yes, dear!)........

Just brought my new 625 home to meet the rest of the family. So far my Glock 19 and the Smith are getting along....but I predict the Glock will probably begin to get a little jealous once I start spending time getting acquainted with the Smith. Now comes the fun part....Accessorizing! Just one question though, and yes I know its a FNG question....I CAN shoot it WITHOUT moonclips, correct?

Thanks Boats...I'm thinking that if no one has responded so far saying they use them, I'm led to believe they're not popular? I would think the same thing though, that if TK makes they've gotta be good! I suppose for 20 bucks I'll give them a try.

I would talk to Dick Vittorio at East Orange Shooting Sports. He did some work on a Kimber for me and was quite impressed...cost was more than reasonable. He is also the guy who runs the IDPA matches at Central Florida Rifle & Pistol Club in Orlando. Web site for East Orange is www.eastorangess.com Good luck! Gregg

As I am getting closer to owning a 625 (it will hopefully be in my hot little hands in a week or so), I was looking at the TK Custom web site and these items peaked my curiosity. Does anyone own a set of these? What do ya think of it? What kind of accuracy do you get? Gregg

I've decided to purchase a S & W 625 sometime before the end of the year and I currently have approx. 700-800 rounds of .45 ammo that I've already reloaded for use in my Kimber, all of which I've used CCI primers. I really don't plan on having any work done on the 625 outside of how it comes straight from the factory, so basically shooting it straight out of the box. A local gunshop does have a pretty good supply of Winchester large pistol primers but getting Federals may take some doing? My main question is this.... Should I expect any ignition issues with my current reloads because of the CCI primers? Should I not use those reloads in that Smith but use them up in my Kimber first and then stock up on Winchester primers or try to get some Federals? Gregg

From reading tons of postings here I understand that the BEST brand of primers to use with a revolver is Federal. Why is that? If one can't get Federal primers, what would be the next best alternative?

I think I'll just save up for a 625. Even though that 581 is a good deal, it's a good deal NOW, but I think it'll just cost me more than its worth in the long run. Thanks again for everyones advice.

Ok, went to 1 local gun shop today to price a new 625.....$850. (Didn't have any in stock. Heck they didn't think they made them anymore!) Hmmm, ok. Guess that price sounds about right. Right? Then he shows me a used .357. It's an older S&W 581. It's blued, fixed sights, etc....looks nice, felt nice...asking price $350. Not that I'm swayed to get a .357, but I guess it got me thinking...should I? I know it's NOT a 625 and NOT a .45, but is it a dumb idea to consider it? Maybe a little cheaper to reload, is about 1/3 the price of a 625. Then let's say I find that a revolver isn't really for me. Then I'm out 350 bucks instead of almost a grand. Am I just talking crazy talk?

I cannot thank everone enough for ALL of the great advice! I really appreciate it. I'm fixing to start hitting the local gun shops very shortly and get some price quotes and see what's in stock. Next question, what's a good holster that would be legal for both USPSA as well as IDPA? And what's a good holster for strictly USPSA?

Thanks guys...I guess I was just trying to get the "most bang for my buck" in todays tight economy (wow, is that the ideal use for that cliche or what?) by looking at a handgun that COULD multi task....but I guess I don't want something that would be a "jack of all trades and master of none". (geez I'm on a roll!). And point taken on already being set up to reload .45 ammo. While I'm not looking to be the next Jerry Miculek, should I try to get the Miculek version of the 625, or will any 625 do? Can anyone explain to me in plain language what are some of the real world differences and advantages I would see and feel (at the local match level) between the Miculek version and a "regular" one?

I've been shooting USPSA for bout a Year and a half and am a C class shooter in Production and Single Stack. Lately I've been wanting to try something new and different, so am thinking bout Revolver division. I do not currently own any revolvers, but have been considering trading/selling my Kimber Classic Gold Match for something new, so....... At first I was thinking bout a S&W 625 or maybe a 686.....The 625 because it's THE gun used by Jerry M., also because I have a bunch of .45 reloads for my Kimber. The 686....well no particular reason. After reading lots of threads here about who's carrying what, I'm wondering about a 610. Although I've never shot or reloaded a .40/10mm, the thought of being able to use a .40 for competition and using full power 10mm loads for (hog) hunting has me thinking. What are your thoughts on the pros and cons of a 610 as opposed to other choices? Anything else I should consider when choosing?