New Products..

[sinnsyk]

I just picked up the X-Long Ultra Light Firing Pin for Large Frame / Single Action. It's the same design as the previous XL Firing pin, but it's 3 oz lighter. This was accomplished by drilling a 1/16" hole 1/2" deep through the back of the firing pin. Besides being lighter it looks pretty f... cool.

Also have the 10.75# recoil spring available online.

Other things in the works that is not available yet, but will be soon:

1) 416 Stainless Sear Pin with an OD of 3.05mm to keep the sear rotating tightly on the sear assembly. Ensures a more consistent trigger pull

2) 303 Stainless Low Profile Torx Grip Screws. Custom designed and manufactured for aluminum grips. Works with all grips.

3) 416 Stainless Hammer Pin for Limited, Gold Team, Stock II. Oversized, hardened pin to keep the hammer rotating tightly. Ensures a more consistent trigger pull.

4) 416 Stainless Hammer Pin Pin. Better quality hammer pin pin. I'm just tired of using low quality factory pins in my guns...

5) Adjustable, Straight Single Action Trigger. We're doing the prototyping right now and I promise the new trigger will have some really, really cool features... ;-)

6) Adjustable Rear sights for Limited and Match. Drawn and in the works. Just waiting on machining time.

7) Aftermarket bull barrels.

Several other parts in the works that'll be available throughout the year...

;-)

Henning

[BritinUSA]

You can put me down for one of those triggers (and some new grip screws)

[BundyBear]

Can't wait to see the new trigger. Any idea when the pins will be available?

[R.Elliott]

Hey Henning, what do you think about a "fitable" sear cage? Rather than welding or brazing to take out the slop you could just gently tune say, four contact points...?

Put me down for grip some grip screws. I'm pretty sure those stock slotted screws are trying to kill me.

[bamayne]

Trigger sounds very interesting, maybe it will get rid of some of the slop that the factory trigger has.

[Ronemus]

The EGW sear is already available and requires fitting to your pistol to operate. I put one in my Witness Hunter and it made a world of difference. Fitting took an evening (it will be faster the second time), about half of it spent looking for the sear return spring after it escaped (3 times).

Hey Henning, what do you think about a "fitable" sear cage? Rather than welding or brazing to take out the slop you could just gently tune say, four contact points...?

Edited May 22, 2009 by Ronemus

[CHA-LEE]

Ronemus> I think he is talking about the cage that the sear sits in. The one with the ejector prong built into it. The sear cage does flop around quite a bit in the channel of the frame where it sits. I have mixed feelings about making it 100% snug in the frame though. I think that in its current flop around configuration it has enough slop to work consistently. If it was locked down you may get inconsistent extraction, trigger action, or reset. I was going to fiddle around with this on my gun but in its current "Flop around" configuration it works very well. I don't want to fiddle with it and start having issues. Kind of the "Don't fix what isn't broken" situation.

[slavex]

put me down for grip screws and hammer and sear pins

[sinnsyk]

The X-Long Firing Pin version 2 is now again available.Just updated the shop. The new pin is 3 grains lighter with a 1/15" hole in the back. Also updated the EGW and Wolf pages with some more info etc. I have the EGW slide pins back in stock. They now make it in-house so their price doubled to $50 for the pin. Mine is made in a screw machine shop so I am able to sell it for $25. Btw mine is built using a more appropriate material which makes it stronger and tougher. S7 shock resistant steel handles the abuse much better than 4140 does. Even though most 1911 manufacturer uses 4140 for their slide pins, very few of them have discovered that S7 is a better steel for this application. My friends Alex and Jay at GunCrafter Industries who make the 1911 .50GI tipped me and recommended me to make mine out of S7. I listened, made them and haven't broken or bent a pin yet. I've broken a few Huening / EGW pins over the years. When I told other 1911 aftermarket parts manufacturer's about it they've responded... "hmmm never thought of doing that. Makes sense."

18lb Wolff spring in shop so now have a full line of recoil springs from 6lb to 20lb.

EGW hammers are out to be re-cut so Trigger Kits and backordered hammers will be shipped out shortly.

The Wolff Extra Power Magazine spring has proven to fix a lot of problems for shooters with 10mm. The internal length of a 10mm magazine is 1.300". 10mm Factory loads can be 1.265" OAL which leaves very little room and can cause feeding issues when the rounds bind after putting more than 12 rounds in the mags. The Extra Power Magspring helps push the rounds up. Has also shown to be effective in 38 super mags using the factory follower. I shorten the legs on factory followers and cut the spring to fit the length/basepad. If you are having nose-dive issues in 38 super or 9mm, a shorter factory follower and a wolff extra power magspring can be a better setup than the Grams follower/spring. It will depend on your magazine bodies and your ammo/loads/brass. You won't get as high of a mag capacity as with the Grams, but if you are having problems I've had good luck with this combination.

Also in the process of making H-141 basepads for the small frame magazines. This means 9mm and 40 S&W in the small frame can increase capacity. Small Frame magazines are shortage in the US at the moment. When they come back I will build higher capacity magazines for small frames. They are typically more reliable in both these calibers than the large frame versions.

Hammer and Sear Pins will be made and available as soon as the shop have machine time. June/July.

I agree that a better sear assembly would be a good thing and it may be something I will try to tackle. It will have to be machined and will probably be Winter 2010 project.

Trigger, Trigger Plunger, Trigger Bar... all the trigger parts will eventually be improved to refine trigger pull and reset.

;-)

[sinnsyk]

btw. A new Wallgrens t-shirt will be available shortly. It'll be the 2009 Wallgrens Prescription shirt which will be in a cool green color.

I'm also working to have more holster and mag pouch options for us also.

As you know, the 10.75# spring just became available and there are a few other springs in the works that will be better tuned springs for this gun. I am working on an improved magrelease with screw-on buttons that will either have or offer a lighter magrelease spring.

[R.Elliott]

Ronemus> I think he is talking about the cage that the sear sits in. The one with the ejector prong built into it. The sear cage does flop around quite a bit in the channel of the frame where it sits. I have mixed feelings about making it 100% snug in the frame though. I think that in its current flop around configuration it has enough slop to work consistently. If it was locked down you may get inconsistent extraction, trigger action, or reset. I was going to fiddle around with this on my gun but in its current "Flop around" configuration it works very well. I don't want to fiddle with it and start having issues. Kind of the "Don't fix what isn't broken" situation.

The cage is in fact what I was referring to; not the sear. In many if not most guns, a very nice trigger can be had without tightening them up at all, but like anything else in the world, tighter tolerances just means a better fit and function in a racing gun, so long as the tolerances are correct for that gun.

One problem with the slop in the sear cage that I've noted is that some (a very few) guns have had their frames actually cracked on the left side, from the safety hole back along the frame rail. This is due to the impact of the round against the ejector being transmitted back through the cage into the frame rail. Taking out the slop can help prevent this.

[sinnsyk]

Fitting the sear "cage" or "block" is important and will ensure a super-light trigger job to not fail. The "easy fix" is to weld/solder on the side of it and file to fit. In the Springfield P9 days some gunsmiths would drill and tap a hole on the side of the frame and put set screws in from the frame.

I'm doing a lot of maintainance on the website to bring part of the shop up to speed. For a while I have been using BearCoat Teflon paint as a custom color option on my grips and the shop will soon reflect these options. A few other things have been tweaked here and there.

[Jody Waring]

My current gun has a set screw on the right side of the frame, and it makes the "cage" rock solid. I can post a pic to show it if anyone wants to see.

[Canuck223]

My current gun has a set screw on the right side of the frame, and it makes the "cage" rock solid. I can post a pic to show it if anyone wants to see.

An old Irvine gun??

[Mo Hepworth]

hammer and sear pins sound interesting. I notice the hammer pin moves with the hammer sometimes,..and other times it rotates around it. I need a new shooting shirt,..green sounds cool.

[Jody Waring]

My current gun has a set screw on the right side of the frame, and it makes the "cage" rock solid. I can post a pic to show it if anyone wants to see.

An old Irvine gun??

Yes sir, it's cool that someone recognizes old school gunsmiths work:D Don first laid his hands on my P9 in 1994. It has seen lots of changes since then, but most of his original work is still intact. Broke my first slide stop just before the Nationals in 2005. His mods were/are amazing.

[LeoHallak]

I just picked up the X-Long Ultra Light Firing Pin for Large Frame / Single Action. It's the same design as the previous XL Firing pin, but it's 3 oz lighter. This was accomplished by drilling a 1/16" hole 1/2" deep through the back of the firing pin. Besides being lighter it looks pretty f... cool.

Also have the 10.75# recoil spring available online.

Other things in the works that is not available yet, but will be soon:

1) 416 Stainless Sear Pin with an OD of 3.05mm to keep the sear rotating tightly on the sear assembly. Ensures a more consistent trigger pull

2) 303 Stainless Low Profile Torx Grip Screws. Custom designed and manufactured for aluminum grips. Works with all grips.

3) 416 Stainless Hammer Pin for Limited, Gold Team, Stock II. Oversized, hardened pin to keep the hammer rotating tightly. Ensures a more consistent trigger pull.

4) 416 Stainless Hammer Pin Pin. Better quality hammer pin pin. I'm just tired of using low quality factory pins in my guns...

5) Adjustable, Straight Single Action Trigger. We're doing the prototyping right now and I promise the new trigger will have some really, really cool features... ;-)

6) Adjustable Rear sights for Limited and Match. Drawn and in the works. Just waiting on machining time.

7) Aftermarket bull barrels.

Several other parts in the works that'll be available throughout the year...

;-)

Henning

Love the new firing pin! been testing it in my limited with zero problems.

[Mo Hepworth]

btw. A new Wallgrens t-shirt will be available shortly. It'll be the 2009 Wallgrens Prescription shirt which will be in a cool green color.

I'm also working to have more holster and mag pouch options for us also.

As you know, the 10.75# spring just became available and there are a few other springs in the works that will be better tuned springs for this gun. I am working on an improved magrelease with screw-on buttons that will either have or offer a lighter magrelease spring.

I need a new shirt! LOL,...any chance it may be out really soon. I want to wait so I can order a few other items at the same time\

[askomiko]

I've noticed that blocking the trigger plunger's side to side movement smooths the trigger movement a little bit, is there a way to do this permanently? A very small difference, but Henning seems to aim for a mad super duper trigger anyway..

Edited September 2, 2009 by askomiko