askomiko

"Ok, this is going to suck, but just control the muzzle and get up. There's the finger, as far away as it can get from the trigger, no problems..." Funny how slow the falling felt, like it took 3 seconds, I had easily enough time to make all the landing preparations.

Hi! My 650 just started doing this. The shellplate doesn't index fully, and the whole ramhead seems to tilt sideways at the end of the stroke. It isn't loose if I try to move it with my hand though. I can't see what's tilting it. And is the case insert slide supposed to have supposed to have this much sideways play as I demonstrate in the video? The primer system assembly isn't loose, the whole thing that it's bolted to moves. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmxnPReD0iA&feature=youtu.be Edit: DOH! Of course, the bolts that hold the ramhead platform were loose. Back to rock'n roll!

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0438315/ Starring Nick Nolte, Scott Mechlowicz. I bet this movie was partly written by Brian! "Where are you? -Here. What time is it? -Now. What are you? -This moment?"

I've noticed, that for some reason, 1st stage seems to be the best stage for me. I've won a few, the one I remember best was 1st stage of biggest match of the year, with standard gun, after year and a half of shooting open only. There's something with the slight extra attention or something.

I got two mags with Grams followers, and the other one doesn't work. The follower gets slightly out from between the mag lips, and hits the slide when the mag runs empty, resulting in a mighty jam. I noticed that this follower reads Grams S9 in the bottom, and the working one says Grams T. The S9 is 1.8mm shorter back to front than the T, so I guess this must be from a 9mm mag? What markings should a .40SW follower have?

Hi! I've loaded 9, 38, 40 and 223, with my 550 so far, and now I bought a new 650 for this. I'm planning to start reloading 45, which needs big primers. Should I sell the 550 and get a conversion for 650, or save it. Just how annoying and slow is the big/small primer change in 650?

Another fun extra is to add a time, running at the bottom of the screen like in real sports events. Check the real overall time from the scores, and sync it to the last shot. It really pinpoints the places where you lose or gain time.

Try a Saul Kirsch -style grip, where you build up the grip to fit YOUR hand exactly. Makes a huge difference, especially for the left hand. I'm totally addicted.

Hi! I'd love if someone with one of those cameras could post a short video of shooting. Why? I'm in a market for my new camera, after my old one died, and I want to know the sound quality for recording gunshots. Yes, a request you could only see here... The old camera had a good sound, and I've heard some cameras where a gunshot distorts the sound so badly that I'd want to mute the whole audio track. As the main use for this camera will be documenting matches, it would really suck if the sound was unuseable.

I just got my new 650, and while assembling it, when I tightened the screw that is supposed to stop casefeeder from rotating on the post, the helicoil insert came out from the plastic of the casefeeder body. Ouch! How do I fix it? I was thinking about putting "metal" epoxy into the hole and re-drilling it. As the stupidity is strong in me, please stop me before I ruin it further.

Well, I got the Ultramag. Then, with the Redding carbide GRX-die it was so easy, that I sold the Ultramag and got the T7. The cases almost go through the die with the weight of the handle alone. The previous push-thru size must have been undersized, since I often needed to jump on the handle and kick it down, and it was a horrible job. Now, the cases sized with that old die don't even touch the die when I push them trough the Redding die... And the T7 is awesome! The push through, and all my rifle dies found a permanent home in the turret.

Could I put the center bolt into lathe and take away the thickness of the washers from the underside of the bolt?

Hi, thanks, I already got a set coming to my way, thanks MI_Packer.

Hi, I'd need three sets of these parts here in Finland. Could someone send those, I'll pay with Paypal?

Do you mean this mag? http://www.caspianarms.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CAL&Product_Code=M46H40Q&Category_Code=M46

Being from Europe, I started with CZ, and I've shot the CZ-platform a lot more than the 2011. So, for me, the 2011 grip seems impossible to get comfortable with. It's shaped like a brick. I almost hope I'd had started with a 2011, because they are very nice guns after all. But I have to say that the TS grip is somewhat weird with the original grip panels. I changed regular CZ75 grips to both of my TS's, and the result is pretty big, but better shaped grip. Which suits me, with semi big hands. I also grinded off some material under the beavertail to get an even higher grip, which also makes a big difference. The regular CZ75 shape is very comfy straight from the box. In 9mm, I love the TS, the recoil is almost non-existent. However, with TS .40, the recoil felt stronger than it does with Tanfoglio or 2011, with same power factor ammo. Which is weird. So, 1) Out of the box reliability is good. Matches were more fun with CZ than they are now, pretty much 0 malfunctions ever. 2) Depends on the gun. In general, I prefer CZ to the 2011 recoil, since the slide is a bit lower, and sits lower in your grip, and as a result it flips less. 4) No difference 5) Finding a suitable holster for the TS might be the biggest search. Otherwise, no problems. I haven't seen titanium pimp my ride parts, but who cares.

Image from Angus' site of the thick grips. Do they really have deep recesses like it seems in the photo? Looks uncomfortable to me. http://czcustom.com/images/products/detail/BlackAlGrips.jpg

Hi! I'm buying a new press to accompany my Dillon, mainly for making accurate rifle rounds. So, the ones I've had in mind now are the Redding T7 and Ultramag. I love the idea of having all dies in place with the T7. One use for the press would also be push thru sizing glocked .40S&W cases, which is notoriously hard work. Previously, I've done this with a 50bmg size press, and even with that, it is hard work. I've almost had to jump on the handle just to get the case through the die. So, anyone who has played with the T7: would I be an idiot if I got the T7 for that kind of work, which could almost be described as abusing the press? On a side note, I think I'll have to get a carbide die for the push thru die, things should be a lot smoother...

Dillon Aero.

Everyone should have at least one 308. If you feel you need more oomph, just add more guns! (The same applies also for a .22. )

Ahh, reloading for precision... The possibilites for endless tinkering... My belief is that you get quite a lot of the possible accuracy with few simple steps, and don't need a boat load of tools. The only must have items are the press, dies, scale, and calipers. That's all I have. But soon, in addition you will need a case length trimmer, because the cases grow longer after a few firings. If you don't plan to shoot dozen reloads out the the same cases, you can skip that. All other trinkets are optional extras. Adjust a full lenght sizing die almost to touch the case holder in you press, and size the case. Then see if fits in your chamber or not, adjust the die lower in small increments until it does fit. Not necessarily anything. Just put the round in and check for rifling marks in the bullet. Make the round longer and longer until you see the marks, and adjust accordingly. You can color the bullet with a blue pen if you want to, or spin it and polish it with 000 steel wool, to make it easy to see the rifling marks. The latter trick works better. Not necessarily. I just use those little spoons they sell for reloading, and trickle by hand. With some powders, the dillon powder measure will drop charges that vary quite wildly. For accuracy loading, I scale all my loads. It's not that bad, since for accuracy work, 20 rounds is a plenty. Basically, making pretty good ammo is pretty simple after all. Then, as with everything in world, getting the last 10%... The more you approach the benchrest methods, the more time consuming it becomes. These are the steps which I believe will give a pretty big chunk of the available accuracy. I'm not expert though. 1. Use good brass, preferably one batch (of Lapua. Their new 308 palma brass is supposedly amazing.) 2. Sort for weight, like this: 3. Find the bullet and OAL your gun likes. My gun really really liked Berger 168gr VLD. At least test the basic usual suspects, Berger VLD, Sierra Match king, and Lapua Scenar. 4. Weigh your powder charge with a good scale. Yes, slow, but it works. Finding the best amount of powder, I do the "optimal charge weight" version of a simple ladder test. Basically, you make a few different loads, with small increments, and test them all: http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspace.com/#/ocw-instructions/4529817134 With these simple steps, I got my cheap 308 Savage often to shoot quite good. And it's barrel is basically made of old files, with the rough spots still inside the barrel... It's nice to shoot over a chrono, after all that case and powder scaling, and see muzzle velocities ridiculously close to each other, and hopefully see something good in the target too. For me, there's always that excitement when walking to the target.. "Is it a shotgun group, or a cloverleaf.." More often it looks like someone mistook my target for a duck and shot it with a shotgun, but sometimes things just work. These groups are 150 meters/164yds Now looking at these pictures makes me think, "What the hell am I doing now with my tight-chambered 6.5-284 that weighs half a ton, and all that neck turning and tinkering, yet I cannot shoot as good groups as I did with that crummy Savage I used to have." Ugh! I need a worse gun obviously! I hope things will improve though, it's all so new now, so I just need to find the optimal combination of all things... I'll report back in two years!

That Bawo magazine has Grams parts inside, the same stuff that Henning sells. The base pad is the only difference, being very thin it is IPSC legal. You can go with the slightly bigger basepad on Hennings site. So, replace the spring and follower with the grams stuff that Henning sells, you should be all set. On the other hand, the factory mag is super reliable with its slightly smaller ammo capacity. But the capacity is so small... Oh, decisions, decisions...

I'd believe your finger is higher on the flat trigger than it was on the curved trigger. Therefore, shorter lever to pull the same weight -> feels heavier. That is, if there is nothing binding anywhere. That is easy to check, just take out the sear housing and test the free trigger.

Open championships are done. Heavy rain for the first two stages. Shooting open in rain is not very much fun, getting the lens full of water drops does not help. Mag changes were difficult, "whooops, there it flies, into the mud". 10 stages, 8 of which are on the video, the weather was so bad it would have killed the camera. It wasn't the smoothest match for me, too many mistakes. Stages as seen on the video: Stage1: This left the worst feeling of the day. 32 round memory stage. I had a good plan, and after the first mag change it all went down the drain. I wasn't supposed to change mag there, and I was supposed to skip the third shooting window completely, and shoot more from the fourth. But as I found myself changing the mag and shooting on the third window, my mind went blank. "What am I doing, which targets have I shot, where am I, how many rounds do I have, where are the targets..." And it shows on the video. Going slow motion, trying to figure out a new plan on the fly. Luckily, I ended up having holes in all targets, it was just slow. Stage2: A great fun stage, with lots of movement. Targets on both sides, I'm especially proud of the fifth shot, which was a mini popper pretty far away, on the move. Stage3: Simple stage, only problem was that the farthest targets were 50 yards away. For some weird reason, I had two mikes on the farthest one. I noticed while zeroing the gun, that with a 25m zero, the bullets go very high on 50 meters, almost over the target. I thought I aimed low enough, but it seems I didn't. Stage4: Go forward, or don't. Stage5: Super duper fast time, but one mike... Stage6: I seem to have troubles with targets that are very close and low. Again, a loooooong movement, which is great, you don't see that too often in matches in my opinion. Stage7: Fun plate fest. Stage8: A stage with mini targets. I dropped a bit too many points here. The mini targets are a bit tricky to shoot.

Henning front sights, trigger parts, firing pins, grip screws and slide stop pins. The black one has the front checkering, others have been subjected to a grinding wheel.