JeffWard Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 For the experienced COMPETITION reloaders: I've got... (For 9mm Production) Equipment: Dillon SDB w/ 9mm dies 4 small primer pick-up tubes and 2 large Case Lube Non-digital powder scale Digital Calipers (OAL) Primer Flip Tray Frankford Arsenal Vibratory Case Cleaner Inertial Bullet Puller Consumables: 1 lb of Titegroup 1 lb of Bullseye 1000 Winchester Small Pistol Primers, a few hundred CCIs, and a few hundred Federals. 1500 "once fired" range brass, (mostly Winchester, Blazer, and "PMC" (I think this is American Eagle???? as the range sells a ton of it) 500 125gr LRN (Space Coast Bullets) 500 Zero 125Gr (Coming) 500 Zero 147Gr (Coming) Of the following additional "stuff", what is REQUIRED, RECOMMENDED (for precision, for efficiency), and NICE TO HAVE (get it later...) Media Seperator Digital Powder Scale (what accuracy) Drop-In Case Gauge Chronograph What else???? I'm setting up this week, and want to be in production before next weekend. Thanks, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
North Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Of the following additional "stuff", what is REQUIRED, RECOMMENDED (for precision, for efficiency), and NICE TO HAVE (get it later...)Media Seperator Digital Powder Scale (what accuracy) Drop-In Case Gauge Chronograph What else???? I'm setting up this week, and want to be in production before next weekend. Thanks, Jeff Chronograph is vital, without one you are just guessing. The rest are nice to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan550 Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Jeff, Media Separator..........Almost a must. How else would you get all that media out without making a mess? Digital Powder Scale (what accuracy)..........Depending upon whether you plan to weigh the bullets, cases, etc. or not, probably a nice-to-have, but far from necessary. Balance beam scales work fine but are slow when you're doing a lot of weighing at one time. Drop-In Case Gauge........Another nice-to-have but you can chamber-check your ammo in your barrel just as easily. Chronograph.........Again, nice to have but you can probably find someone's to borrow, or have them check your ammo. I will check ammo for friends, but get a little testy if they want to use my chrono. Alan~^~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Reloading without testing on a chronograph is like driving with your eyes closed. You do not have to own one, but you MUST test on one or you are just blindly trusting things to be what you "hope" they are! Of the rest, the case gauge is a must also. The media separator is a work saver for the 2nd level gotta' havit's A typical beam balance is as accurate as you "need" to start, maybe as good as you need long-term too. What is important is to have check weights and to verify any scale before trusting it blindly. Digital is nice, but a 3rd level acquisition for when you are into it bigtime IMHO. Most important "other" thing to have right at the start is a late model loading manual so you have some solid load data to work from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
North Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 What better case gauge than your chamber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aristotle Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 What better case gauge than your chamber? I used to do that, but it's Inconvenient to have to take your gun apart every time you case gauge and the case gauge is tighter, so I know the ammo is held to tighter standards. Case gauging all of my ammo is as essential as ears and eye's for me. I always seem to find 2-3 rounds that don't quite drop in, and that's what I used to average in terms of jam a match. Maybe I'm too OCD with my ammo, but I also think the digital scale is essential for building up ammo for the various platforms and making sure your powder charge is dialed in. I have bad eye's and suck at math, I want to see exactly what I'm throwing and don't want to strain as I check charge when I first get things set up on almost every load until I am comofortable that my loader is throwing the correct amount. Same for a digital caliper. I measure every 3rd round to make sure they are within .005. This year I've become a lot more OCD with my ammo, and it's been helping me out a lot. Fighting the course of fire, instead of my gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 North wrote: What better case gauge than your chamber? I've got one pistola with a super tight barrel bushing. At about the time I remember that the plug will go flying across the room to destination unknown I'll hear this ZING! Ooops too late. I'm reloading on a Dillon 550 that has the EGW/Lee Undersize die and the Lee Factory Crimp Die on each toolhead, so I only case gauge like the first 5 or 10 rounds off the press and that's it. If you are using carbide dies, you do NOT need any case lube. Case lube is typically meant for bottle necked rifle cartridges. If you still want to use it, you can make your own by mixing lanolin and 90% rubbing alcohol from the pharmacy. As far as the primer flip tray goes, I have heard that a jewel case from a CD or DVD works quite well at that. After a while, Jeff, my recommendation is to just stick with one primer from one manufacturer and one bullet weight from one bullet maker, then buy in bulk! As far as the chrono goes, if you ask nicely, one of your fellow shooters at the club level could be coaxed into bringing his chrono along for after the next local match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Looking over the whole list, here's some thoughts that others might find useful, too... (I realize you already have some of this stuff ). Dillon SDB w/ 9mm diesNon-digital powder scale Dial or (gasp) Vernier Calipers Believe it or not, the above are the only things that you listed that you actually need - as long as you start at the start loads in the book, and can borrow some time on a chrono. Many of us consider some of those other things mandatory (tumbler, separator, case lube, extra primer tubes, flip tray) for a variety of good reasons - but the truth is that you can reload with just the above. You'll probably be a good deal slower than the press has the capability of turning out, but... Clean cases are easier on the sizing die, and look better, so the tumbler is a good thing. The separator means you don't have to deal with media everywhere all over the press, as you'll inevitably leave media in the cases otherwise. Case lube makes it a lot easier to resize the cases, and therefore means it'll take a lot less effort to operate the handle on the press - this translates to smooth, efficient operation. Having more primer tubes full allows you to dump and go when you run out in the primer magazine - saves time. Primer flip trays give you a tray, with lips, that make it easy to get primers right side up and in the tubes. This is something of a safety issue, too Chrono is vital - but you don't usually have to own one. At least, not right off. You probably know someone who can help right now. Put it on your "get one when I can" list, for sure. Aside from a press upgrade (I'm on an "As It Should Be" 550 right now), this is next on my list (yes... sadly... a GM w/o a chrono ). I'd also add an empty cardboard box of some sort to spray lube on your cases in... Digital scale and calipers are "nice to haves". I've loaded all the ammo I've ever shot without them. I wouldn't call these needs When I buy a digital scale, it'll be the Uniquetek that's accurate to two hundredths of a grain. I might pick up a digital caliper at some point, if a mood strikes me, but I don't have plans to buy one. Your barrel can serve pretty well as a case gauge - but a good gauge will actually catch slightly more defective ammo (no cut at the base for the barrel ramp). I only gauge major match ammo, however, FWIW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 What better case gauge than your chamber? A case gauge (like the Dillon, and probably the Wilson) that's cut to match chamber tolerances. Such a gauge will reject more ammo than your barrel's chamber, due to the ramp cut on the barrel - this allows a defective round a little more tolerance at the base in your barrel - a round can chamber one way, rotate 90 degrees and it won't chamber. The gauge is perfectly round and will catch that round regardless of where it sits in the chamber. And, since it doesn't take a pounding, the chamber gauge should always be as tight or tighter than your gun's chamber - assuming it was tight enough to start out. Ask your gunsmith what to use to match or exceed the tightness of their chambers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too_Slow Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 The only things that are not listed that should be there at all times are EYE and EAR protection. Just in case of a primer blowout. You only get one set of those and they can not be replaced. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Of the following additional "stuff", what is REQUIRED, RECOMMENDED (for precision, for efficiency), and NICE TO HAVE (get it later...)Media Seperator Digital Powder Scale (what accuracy) Drop-In Case Gauge Chronograph What else???? Hi Jeff, Media Seperator - Dude. A paint bucket (about $2) and a plastic caulender (noodle strainer) from Wal-Mart ($2-5) and you're done. Digital Powder Scale - Highly overrated, but are nice when working up/testing loads. Balance beam is fine. Case Gauges - Absolute must. The ones from Dillon ROCK! Chrono - Depending on what your local club has you can usually borrow one of these. If you can't, get one. Other stuff: - Get a box of latex or Nitrile gloves when handing brass/seperating media. Just keeps things clean - Extra Akro-bins - You'll need them Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrd Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 You will save a bunch of money in the long run buying once, I will be happy to show you some setups. 550 minimum, may as well get a 650 now. Scale; I "prefer" a beam type over digital. I have both and I trust the beam. Just so happens I have an extra Dillon I will make you a smoken deal on. If you are going to buy dies, its worth just paying once and getting the EGW U die, and factory crimp die. Dillon polisher and media seperator almost a must, unless you want to buy brass. Case guage before your first "big" match. Of course a Titusville monthly match is like many state championships. One shot case lube and a gallon zip lock bag is worth every penny. I will give you a zip lock. Dillon primer flip tray, CD cases have static. I like "dial" calipers. Old machinist at heart. Feel free to call me all night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecichlid Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Bare min. for reloading: Stainless steel punch for removing primers 16 Oz ball peen hammer (helps with pimer removal and doubles for seating bullets and primers) Pliers to crimp Mack daddy set up: Mike Dillon, 'nuff said. ROFL Sounds like you are on the right track to be honest. Chrono is a must unless you know someone that has one you can use from time to time. Joe W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 You will save a bunch of money in the long run buying once, I will be happy to show you some setups.550 minimum, may as well get a 650 now. Scale; I "prefer" a beam type over digital. I have both and I trust the beam. Just so happens I have an extra Dillon I will make you a smoken deal on. If you are going to buy dies, its worth just paying once and getting the EGW U die, and factory crimp die. Dillon polisher and media seperator almost a must, unless you want to buy brass. Case guage before your first "big" match. Of course a Titusville monthly match is like many state championships. One shot case lube and a gallon zip lock bag is worth every penny. I will give you a zip lock. Dillon primer flip tray, CD cases have static. I like "dial" calipers. Old machinist at heart. Feel free to call me all night. I don't get the love affair with the 550. Either get a SDB or a 650. The only advantage of a 550 over a SDB is the industry standard size dies. Otherwise, the SDB is an awesome machine for pistol shooting. The great thing about a SDB is they hold their value well. They have a cash value of around $250 right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I recommend the 550 for folks who want to load a lot of rifle and change out to various pistol calibers fairly often, less stuff to tweak and change than on a 650, just switchout toolhead, shellplate, primer tube and punch, 5 minutes and BAM, a new caliber! 650 otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Media separator is easy, hardware screen and 1 x 4. Case gauge is critical, your barrel will not work 100% as it has a ramp and just a little bit of play to allow the case to go in. The gauge is smaller so that the required 'slop' is there. Digital scale is not required, a beam scale and a set of check weights is a good thing. Dial Caliper, 1-2" micrometer, vernier caliper all good, you need one. Does not have to be expensive, you are measuring thousandths at best, not tenths. Chrono is a requirement to really be on, but most groups of shooters will have multiple people with one, Usually you can arrange to chrono with a buddy, after a while you SHOULD however get your own. Seriously, I would look to a 650 and a case feeder if I were doing any serious amount of shooting. A Sturdy Bench A Good Fire Extinguisher! More than one and located along the pathway out! Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I'll throw in another bit ---- it's easy with a progressive to crank out tons of ammo. Try to control the urge until you've tested a given load over the chrono, and for accuracy and reliability. Once all of those are a go, then you can start cranking on the handle.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffWard Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 I'll throw in another bit ---- it's easy with a progressive to crank out tons of ammo. Try to control the urge until you've tested a given load over the chrono, and for accuracy and reliability. Once all of those are a go, then you can start cranking on the handle.... I've actually gone straight from Hodgden's data, compared against many replies from this forum, and Lee Reloading manuals... Last night I loaded 5 each (a huge run) with 3.6, 3.8, and 4.0 grains of TiteGroup, under the LRN 125s I already have, loaded to 1.125" +/- about 0.005" I'm going to shoot them all today (all 15 rounds!) off snadbags at 15 yards, just to verify my process. Then, when I find what's working best, come home and load 50-100 to groove the process. Lessons learned already??? Loading lead bullets sucks... I'm going to like JHPs much better! They're on order already... Thanks for all the inputs! Buying a case polisher, and a case gauge... Chrono maybe in Feb... What are reasonable chrono prices? Brands? Setups? JW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) The great thing about a SDB is they hold their value well. They have a cash value of around $250 right now. Thats more than the LNL. If you don't already have the SDB I would suggest a 650. As for min/max, well you can figure it out. Edited January 7, 2009 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 The other advantage of going minimalist is that it really improves your grip strength. Just think how much harder you can grip the pistola if you used this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911user Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I don't get the love affair with the 550. Either get a SDB or a 650. The only advantage of a 550 over a SDB is the industry standard size dies. Otherwise, the SDB is an awesome machine for pistol shooting.The great thing about a SDB is they hold their value well. They have a cash value of around $250 right now. The 550 has more room for inserting cases and bullets than the SDB. 550s can load rifle ammo. The 550 caliber conversion kits are simpler and lower cost than those for a 650. With removable toolheads, caliber changes with the 550 are fast and basic. 550s also hold their value better than SDBs from what I've seen. I can see a 550 being a good choice for some people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrflyer Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) When I started I bought Lee Pro 1000 Bullets Powder Primers Lee Powder Scale Calipers I used range pickup brass and didn't clean it. I later added: Vibrating case cleaner Bullet puller Media Seperator Digital powder scale Some plastic bullet boxes I've been reloading for a little over a year now and thats about all i have for my reloading setup...I am looking at getting my own chrono pretty soon though. I just bought a 30 dollar digital scale from cabelas and its worked fine for me and has honestly saved me so much frustation from those freaking balance beams. Edited January 7, 2009 by rrflyer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmccrock Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) "PMC" (I think this is American Eagle???? as the range sells a ton of it)PMC is PMC. American Eagle is Federal's "economy" brand and will have FC or LC headstamps.I can see a 550 being a good choice for some people.Yes. I am biased to 550, because I have used a it exclusively, except for my first reloading efforts with a borrowed RCBS single stage (which convinced me to get a progressive). The 550 is mighty handy because I do not shoot enough to get a complete 650 setup for each caliber (some people do).What are reasonable chrono prices? Brands? Setups?JW If you are also thinking about a timer, than maybe a Pact model which is a timer and chrono, just add the chrono package with the sensors and you are ready. I have one of those, and a CED, and both are fine. Just be sure to get one with a separate electronics unit, just in case you shoot the sensors which are relatively cheap to replace.Lee Edited January 7, 2009 by lmccrock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom S. Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) The other advantage of going minimalist is that it really improves your grip strength.Just think how much harder you can grip the pistola if you used this: Plus you only need one shell... Edited January 7, 2009 by Tom S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 Wash your brass instead of tumbling & polishing it. No need for media separators or a tumbler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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