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Looking for a Holster to fit a 8 3/8 686


rugerp89ipsc

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Well title pretty much says it all. I have the HUGE 686 and am looking for a holster for it to try my local steel match with. I know it is not practical or probably competitive, but I very much enjoy the gun and wanted to try a few matches with it for fun.

Does anyone have any recommendations or experience they would mind sharing?

Thanks in advance.

Any bc I like threads with pics. :D

post-12144-1230052676_thumb.jpg

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I've not used any race holster myself, buy a lot of guys like the SpeedSec because it fits any S&W revolver. May be a better option than getting a specific holster for a looooong gun that you'll be stuck with if you decide not to keep it.

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yeah, I had asked about this earlier, but my search skills must be lacking, bc I cannot find the thread.

is the speedsec like a ghost type holster that just houses the trigger guard area? - ahh, i see they have it at the shooter connection. Looks like a win.

Has anyone used or is currently using one. I know this is dumb, but I really enjoy shooting this gun and I cannot seem to get the time to work in just going to the range with it.

Edited by rugerp89ipsc
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I use a speedsec. It's secure on turn draws unlocked, and locked seems very stable as well. However I do have one complaint, in that the cant adjustment is impossible to get tight enough not to move a bit. I've used a few methods to try and fix this, but nothing yet has made it 100%. The next step is going to be to install a bolt on either side so that it can't move again.

H.

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I use a speedsec. It's secure on turn draws unlocked, and locked seems very stable as well.

Wow. I've watched guys with that rig, and I'll be honest--it looks really precarious to me. You gotta really make sure the gun is properly engaged into the holster, it's just a little too easy to get it perched on there but not really locked into place. I'm not saying the speedsec can't be used safely, but it definitely requires an extra level of diligence to make sure the gun doesn't fall on the ground.

I've had guns fall out of my CR Speed twice (once unloaded and once loaded), and that was enough to make me switch to a full-pouch Blade-Tech kydex rig for USPSA stuff.

To answer the original question: The Safariland 002 with the front loop removed will work just fine for the long barrels.

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I use a speedsec. It's secure on turn draws unlocked, and locked seems very stable as well.

Wow. I've watched guys with that rig, and I'll be honest--it looks really precarious to me. You gotta really make sure the gun is properly engaged into the holster, it's just a little too easy to get it perched on there but not really locked into place. I'm not saying the speedsec can't be used safely, but it definitely requires an extra level of diligence to make sure the gun doesn't fall on the ground.

I've had guns fall out of my CR Speed twice (once unloaded and once loaded), and that was enough to make me switch to a full-pouch Blade-Tech kydex rig for USPSA stuff.

To answer the original question: The Safariland 002 with the front loop removed will work just fine for the long barrels.

Well, to be fair I used a Hogue Universal for a year with my Glocks, so the Speedsec feels like a bank vault door to me. But yeah, I'm just a cheap bastard and it came with the gun, so I use it. And like you say, you do have to be sure to engage the lock bit fully, but that's just part of owning one. It stays locked, and won't lock without it fully engaged, so you just have to unlock and you should be good to go.

H.

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I use a Speedsec for my 625 with a red dot sight for steel and ICORE. I find it very secure but it is a little fussy to get the gun seated properly - but easy enough to check by trying to lock it. If it isn't seated correctly it won't lock. I switched to the Speedsec after knocking the gun out of the (admittedly worn) CR Speed holster that came with it.

Although if I had iron sights I'd use a Blade-Tech DOH!

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I have used a CR Speed holster for several years for my Para 9X23. I do not understand how you had a pistol fall out if it was properly holstered.

The first time was at the Summer Blast a couple or three years ago. I was walking from one stage to another with my range bag in my right hand. I let it rub against the holstered gun and either my arm or the bag slid the locking lever to the unlock position and plop it went.

The second time was earlier this year at a local match. They had a goofy-ass start where you had to have your strong knee on the ground--on the buzzer you had to grab a fake grenade and throw it at a big board out in front of you--they announced it would be a procedural if you didn't make an effort to hit the board (yeah, I know...), so you had to do a pretty decent wind up before throwing it. Between the process of jumping up from kneeling and throwing the goddam grenade, when I reached for the gun it was gone. I looked down and there it was on the ground--my first and only DQ.

Neither of these would have happened with a "regular" kydex holster. Between those experiences and the couple times I've left the friggin' lock on and practically ripped my belt off trying to draw the gun, I decided to give up on the CR Speed for USPSA stuff. I'll probably keep using it for steel shooting, etc., but the truth of the matter is a lightning fast draw is not all that necessary for USPSA shooting anyway.

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The second time was earlier this year at a local match. They had a goofy-ass start where you had to have your strong knee on the ground--on the buzzer you had to grab a fake grenade and throw it at a big board out in front of you--they announced it would be a procedural if you didn't make an effort to hit the board (yeah, I know...), so you had to do a pretty decent wind up before throwing it. Between the process of jumping up from kneeling and throwing the goddam grenade, when I reached for the gun it was gone. I looked down and there it was on the ground--my first and only DQ.

Yeah that was a sucky start position.

For the 8 3/8 inch holster, CR makes one, I'm pretty sure it is just their normal revo holster with an extention.

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I agree with Mike. The Safariland 002 is one of the best all around revolver holsters out there. I have 2 of them.

That's all I used for years. They will fit any K,L or N frame Smith from 4 to 6 in., + 8-3/8 works, it just sticks out the end.

They are adjustable for how tight they grip the gun. They hold the gun by the cylinder and the front is open, so you only

have to lift up a little over an inch till the cyl. is clear and you're out. No locks to worry about turning on or off. They will

probably work with any 4 to 6 inch Colt or Ruger too. If you wanted to sell it later a lot of different people could use it.

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You can adjust the tension on the Speed Sec's locking lever to prevent, or help prevent, the accidental release of the lever. Keeping the holster locked if you have any start other than a simple standing start would be a wise course of action. I have a couple of Speed Sec's for semi auto's and a Ghost Revo holster and they are all safe as long as you use them properly.

-ld

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wow, you guys have me jonesing to try and get my hands on one of these two holsters to make a run with. I really use to dig my ghost holster, so that makes me very interested int eh speedsec, but to be frank, now that I am am always carring my glock in a level 3 retention holster and my off duty gun in a comp tac, I think I might be leaning more to the safariland.

I guess I will do a little search and see what price difference will work out to be.

I will keep yall updated. I did just have a duh moment though. Even though I am going to be shooting a steel match, it is going to be SLOW reloading the gun between strings since I don't have it cut for moon clips. UGh, guess I need to start looking into that. :/

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I shot steel with my M14 and CompIIIs this summer, it really wasn't that much slower than moons. There was one guy with a 657 reloading with the HKS slowloaders and even those weren't that bad.

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Do yourself and your squad mates a favor and get at least 4 speed loaders, you can start the string

by hand loading your 1st cylinder full, after that when the pressure starts and you start fumbling

between spent rnds and live rnds you'll be all thumbs :roflol: (been there !)

And don't worry about the live rnds that you didn't use (you'll only need 5 anyway :goof: )

Dump the wheel into a can or pouch and sort it all out after the string.

But above all else, have fun and enjoy the match :cheers:

(and Ijust realized your shooting a 6 shooter 686, might want to up the qty of those speed loaders :surprise: )

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yeah, I was just thumbing through my blue press and had an ahha moment when I saw the compIIIs. I think I will just look into grabbing 5 of those for now. 5 strings, 5 loaders, everything should work out just fine . . .

haha

on the 002, I see the loop on the end of the holster, would that need to be removed, or do you just draw straight up to clear it?

Lastly, I have the dies, but I have not rounded up the rest of what I need to reload .38, anyone know where the best price on ammo for it is right now?

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on the 002, I see the loop on the end of the holster, would that need to be removed, or do you just draw straight up to clear it?

Question answered in post #5 above. BTW, the loop goes on and off with an allen screw (or maybe two, I can't remember) so you can easily remove it without permanently altering the holster.

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on the 002, I see the loop on the end of the holster, would that need to be removed, or do you just draw straight up to clear it?

Question answered in post #5 above. BTW, the loop goes on and off with an allen screw (or maybe two, I can't remember) so you can easily remove it without permanently altering the holster.

Carmoney is correct but I always just turned mine over and re-secured it to the holster. That way it is completely out of the way but if the need arises to re-install it on top you don't have to remember where you put the thing. That's important for seniors like me. I've got a long 686 and the longer sight radius makes a big improvement in accuracy using metallic sights. I haven't tried it on steel and it may slow the transitions down a bit however it works fine in Bianchi Cup. You don't want to draw that thing with the loop in place as shipped, you could dislocate a shoulder doing that.

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on the 002, I see the loop on the end of the holster, would that need to be removed, or do you just draw straight up to clear it?

Question answered in post #5 above. BTW, the loop goes on and off with an allen screw (or maybe two, I can't remember) so you can easily remove it without permanently altering the holster.

For what it's worth , I ran an 8 3/3" 617 out of a Cup Challenge with the loop removed . No issues. Worked fine for me. :rolleyes:

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