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Double fire on pull and reset of trigger.


RePete

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A group of us at the range yesterday, Glocks, M4's etc.

One of the guys has a G17 that would fire when you pull the trigger (normal) and again or the trigger rest (abnormal).

I diagnosed and fixed the probem.

My question to you Glock jockeys is "What was the cause?'

I will say at a later moment.

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Stuck or incorrectly installed firing pin block. If the spring is jammed up or the block itself is stuck by the extractor pin, it will cause the firing pin to hit the primer upon trigger reset. The trigger bar will push forward on the striker during reset as it passes under it. Normally the firing pin block will be in the down position and stop the forward motion of the striker.

Edited by Chris Martin
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Surface engagement problem between the striker and the rear of the trigger bar (sear).

What I win? <_<

Jim

Edited by JimmyM
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When I was a bit new to Glocking, I had my Glock go full auto (scared the hell outa me). After conversing with Charlie Vanek, the cause was that the firing pin safety spring was inserted sideways with the firing pin safety on top of it. In effect, my Glock was bump-firing. Unless your friend has been taking a file to his trigger bar or striker cruciform, this is more than likely the culprit.

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When I was a bit new to Glocking, I had my Glock go full auto (scared the hell outa me). After conversing with Charlie Vanek, the cause was that the firing pin safety spring was inserted sideways with the firing pin safety on top of it. In effect, my Glock was bump-firing. Unless your friend has been taking a file to his trigger bar or striker cruciform, this is more than likely the culprit.

That's a good one PB!!...what he win???

Jim

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Stuck or incorrectly installed firing pin block. If the spring is jammed up or the block itself is stuck by the extractor pin, it will cause the firing pin to hit the primer upon trigger reset. The trigger bar will push forward on the striker during reset as it passes under it. Normally the firing pin block will be in the down position and stop the forward motion of the striker.

Now that just makes no sense at all. <_< The only function of the firing pin safety is to block the firing pin from forward travel unless the trigger is deliberately pulled all the way to the rear. An otherwise properly functioning Glock will function fine without the firing pin safety installed at all. It's not recommended, but it works. And, the trigger bar never pushes forward on the firing pin. It's in front of the firing pin projection, preventing forward movement until it cams out of the way during the trigger pull. Also, the firiing pin safety, during normal operation, does not contact the firing pin. If it was always stopping forward motion of the firing pin, both parts would be damaged.

Something is causing the trigger bar to drop out of engagement during trigger reset, before it is picked up by those little plastic ledges forming the drop safety. Could the connector have been bent so that the side tension is taken out of it, so it doesn't reset properly?

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Surface engagement problem between the striker and the rear of the trigger bar (sear).

Same guess here.

12 years ago I had a G27, and decided to play with its trigger mechanism to get a smoother pull (you know, the kind of do-it-yourself trigger job made by an amateur that ends up ruining a perfectly functioning firearm).

I had smoothed and (inadvertently) changed the engagement angle between the the rear of the trigger bar and the striker, with the astounding result of a limited 3-rounds burst upon pulling the trigger very slowly.

It could have been amazing, but at that time it scared the hell out of me the first time it happened ... :o

Edited by Skywalker
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I had this happen with a 1st generation LWD connector, the early ones which really dragged the tab against the slide. I've also seen it happen with incorrecty re-bent connectors (bent outward).

[quote - debris between the trigger bar and connector?

Harmon end quote]

[quote - HE FORGOT TO RE-INSTALL THE CONNECTOR

...of course!

I'll PM you my address for the gift card!

Jim end quote]

We have 2 almost winners and a winner. :surprise:

Southpawg26 hit it on the nose, but it was a ghost connector. B)

The tab that interfaces the rear of the firing pin was bent upwards very slightly, but enough to cause a dangerous situation. I did a side by side comparison between my friends frame and my own.

Replacement cured all ills.

As I have a G17 and a G35, I carry a few small parts just in case.

So well done diagostician SouthpawG26. :cheers:

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Now that just makes no sense at all. <_< ...

I can only tell you what happen. If you read above, Pharaoh Bender posted the same problem (his went auto, my friends just on reset). A pin block spring installed sideways.

This was my friends Glock 19 that I shot and discovered the sideways pin block spring.

Edited by Chris Martin
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[opinion] Brings up a good point...the Ghost Rocket connectors are complete CRAP and should not be used! [/opinion]

I have to disagree with you on that. I love the Ghost Rocket. IMHO of course.

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Southpawg26 hit it on the nose, but it was a ghost connector. B)

The tab that interfaces the rear of the firing pin was bent upwards very slightly, but enough to cause a dangerous situation. I did a side by side comparison between my friends frame and my own.

So well done diagostician SouthpawG26. :cheers:

Thank you, thank you, I'm here all week, try the veal...... :roflol:

Edited by SouthpawG26
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I'm confused (again). In what way does the connector contact the firing pin?

BTW, Pharoh, Ghost Rockets are darn good. Not my favorite right now, but good, and certainly not junk. (No opinion, just fact.) And, please explain how a sideways firing pin safety spring can cause full auto. Did the spring get caught in the firing pin channel, keeping the pin locked forward? I just don't see how anything having to do with that part can cause the malfunctions we're talking about here.

I'm not trying to be difficult, well, maybe I am, but I just don't understand the mechanics involved in what is being described here.

On a related note, a friend has been having trouble lately with his gun going full auto in the middle of a match. Using a Triggerkit. Replacing the Triggerkit trigger bar with OEM fixes it. I'm thinking the angle on that tab contacting the firing pin (I'd call that a sear, but Glock doesn't call it anything, to my knowledge) has been changed, or it may have been bent down a bit. OR, the spring hole in the lower projection at the rear of the trigger bar was repositioned too far upward, causing the trigger spring to be pulling down on the trigger bar and pulling it out of engeagement. Same guy has another Glock with Triggerkit that has the pin drop during reset malfunction that started this thread. It does not fire, though, because the firing pin safety is functioning normally and blocks the firing pin. He bought Triggerkits on my advice, and I'm feeling stupid now because of all the trouble he's had. I've also recently found that the firing pin safety included in Triggerkits is overly modified and may cause missfires, so I've replaced all mine with OEM.

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